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Message |
    
ken alsobrook
Member
Username: kalsobrook
Post Number: 10
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 05:08 pm: | 
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I am trying to remove the upper gear assy on my 280 drive and need to remove the bushing from the steering helmet. Mine has two allen screws and they are not threaded so that one could remove the bushing by backing in two bolts. How do I get the bushing out?
Also, are the two bolts holding the shift cable plate accessable only after sliding back the steering helmet and then removing the bellows? I cant seem to get a 7/16" box end wrench in there to loosen them. |
Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp
Post Number: 733
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 06:34 pm: |
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Ken, Hopefully you are trying to remove the transmission only at this time!
Yes/no?
The helmet pin will come out.... you may have to use a make-shift tool to work it back and forth.
Are you certain that the 1/4" jack threads are not there????
Much easier if you remove just the transmission........, then if need be, remove the other components.
Assemble in reverse order.
This frees up the area of the shift cable clamp and the water neck fitting, etc.
If there is no need to remove the Intermediate housing, I'd sure not.... not without first removing the transmission!
Post back!
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ken alsobrook
Member
Username: kalsobrook
Post Number: 11
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 06:58 pm: |
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Yes, I need to remove the transmission to reconnect the water fitting.
I will check again to see if I overlooked the 1/4" jack threads. Are they down inside the holes of the two bolts? I can't seem to find any good illustrations of the helmet pin online. Will check out at the boat tomorrow.
A little history on this drive....it has been long neglected and is very corroded. The steering has a lot of slop/play when moving the drive back and forth by hand...worn bushings I assume. Also when I drained the oil from the drive about 2 quarts of gray lube about the consistancy of really thick white gravy or maybe 150 weight gear lube slowly dripped out. I am not sure if it was water/oil/metal shavings or some mystery lube some prior owner put in there. Keep in mind I have never ran this drive so I have no idea of prior condition. |
Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp
Post Number: 734
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 10:34 pm: |
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Ken, there was a first run of double bolt helmet pins that did not have the "jack threads", so you may not have them if they don't jump out at you. They are very obvious when they are there!
Your drive oil has become hydrogenated! You may be lucky in-that it remained that way and did not separate. Fingers are crossed for you!
If this is a single prop drive, the oil was to have been 30w engine oil.... not gear lube!!!
Place a magnet into the oil that you just removed. Let it sit a day or two.
Gently stir it with the magnet.
Look at it.
Your steering slop could very likely be the collar steering fork bushings. |
ken alsobrook
Member
Username: kalsobrook
Post Number: 12
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 12:21 am: |
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It seems I do have one of the first run double bolt helmet pins without jack threads. So after soaking the helmet pin with corrosion-x overnight I took to it with a bfh and drift punch and that loosened up it's grip of death since 1983 and out it popped.
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ken alsobrook
Member
Username: kalsobrook
Post Number: 13
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 12:26 am: |
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Is this the collar steering fork bushing? It is definitely sloppy here.
The pivot tube bushing by the water connector is also worn. |
ken alsobrook
Member
Username: kalsobrook
Post Number: 14
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 12:29 am: |
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Here is a shot of the transmission with some of the hydrogenated oil. The bearings seem smooth and I couldn't detect any metal shavings in the oil. |
ken alsobrook
Member
Username: kalsobrook
Post Number: 15
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 12:41 am: |
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More areas of concern.       |
ken alsobrook
Member
Username: kalsobrook
Post Number: 16
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 12:44 am: |
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BTW, Ricardo, should I try flushing the old lubricant completely out of the drive or just let it drain for a couple of days. |
Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp
Post Number: 736
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 07:50 am: |
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Ken, as long as it has remained hydrogenated, I'd just let it drain. Then maybe do a flush of sorts after you get it reinstalled so that the engine can spin the gears. Then drain once more.
Whatch out for the shims that are under the transmission... oil film can cause them to stick to either surface.... then they become lost! Keep these in order for when you re-assemble!
I've sent you an email with my phone number.... just too much to cover in the forum format here.
Rick |
ken alsobrook
Member
Username: kalsobrook
Post Number: 17
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 02:47 pm: |
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Here is the only obvious corrosion I can find...the bearing keepers are rusty. The bearings look and spin ok. Can I replace this bearing without special tools/presses/etc.? I plan on doing a major overhaul soon and would like to defer this if possible. Opinion? |
Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp
Post Number: 762
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 03:13 pm: |
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Ken, when I see this amount of rust, I question the over-all condition of the bearings.
Viewing each ball and the race surface is tough to do on these. They often spin freely giving a false sense of being OK. Your call on that!
This rust is what normally kills these bearings.
In short, Yes! You could do this without any real special tools. It would help to have some hypoid gear work experience though.
Use heat on the gear case where the clamping collar bolts penetrate the thread inserts. You get only one shot at these socket head bolts when extracting them.
Once the socket head goes away, you're looking at EDM service, or removing them via a milling machine and drilling them mostly out.... then if you are lucky, you can remove the collar and remaining studs!
There is a fine little shoulder under the head of each bolt that is critical to making a good seal on these older ones.
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