| Author |
Message |
    
Jesse
Advanced Member
Username: ruckus3313
Post Number: 194
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 05:45 pm: | 
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OK guys,
I decided to take my boat out 1 last time for the season to fish and run some sta-bil through the fuel.I decided to start it in my driveway before departing. Battery was dead(prob from my Humminbird, 7inch tv w/dvd and 6 speakers keeping memory for 2 months without boating) so I hooked up my jump pack and it started to crank it over. sounded like it had no spark. checked that and the spark was great. Tried cranking over again with same results. I have flamethrower coil and pertronix kit and new NGK plugs and wires(new this year). I pumped my throttle about 5 times(as usual) before I started to crank over. I removed spark arrester to see if accelerator pump was working. Pumps fuel through full stroke of the throttle(good).Just for the heck of it i tried to crank it over with the spark arrester off. FIRED RIGHT UP ON FIRST CRANK!!! my spark arrester is really old and cruddy looking.Could it have been choking the motor out by not giving the carb enough air??? I know the old ohc engine is cold blooded but could the spark arrester cause the engine to crank for long periods before starting?? Thanks in advance
2nd question,
After I got my motor running i let it sit at idle.(out of water i lower OD into BIG rubbermaid tub full with water. running nice and smooth. I took the raw water strainer cap off to check for water flow but there was not a drop of water running through it. I closed the cap wondering why??? Engine was only running for about 2 minutes. Took it out on the water and ran it for about 30-45 minutes at cruising RPM's didnt overheat or act funny however I pulled my raw water strainer cap off again with it at idle to check for flow and it started pouring water out the top into my engine compartment so i quickly closed the cap again. Does this only start flowing water through once the thermostat opens?? I know i have a closed cooling system and that raw water cools the coolant. Does it not start flowing through the strainer area until the thermostat opens???? Any help would make me feel a lot better!!! |
Robert A. Fierro
Advanced Member
Username: sandkicker
Post Number: 966
Registered: 06-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 07:47 pm: |
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There should be water flow on the raw water side almost instantly, i.e., as soon as the pump primes. It needs to do that so the hot exhaust gasses do not trash the exhaust system.
Re: flame arrestor on/off..It's possible re airflow, however if it was that bad engine would not run right at high revs... More likely that you flooded the engine and the time it took you to remove the arrestor and the influx of fresh air cleared the flooded condition. |
Jesse
Advanced Member
Username: ruckus3313
Post Number: 195
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 08:12 pm: |
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Hey Rob,
Thanks for the input. If there was any water flowing through there it was very little but i checked it immediately after starting the engine and put the cap right back on(out of water with the OD in a tub of water). As soon as I was out in the water after running for a while and re-checked it it was FLOWING very well(overflowing into bilge). As far as the starting condition goes, it always seems like after it sits for 3+ weeks its a beast to start even with a pertronix and flamethrower coil. When i let it sit overnight or 2 without starting it starts right up 2nd crank every time. When I let it sit i have to crank for a while with a lot of throttle help but only starts when its backed off almost to neutral. When it does start you have to very slowly give it throttle to pick up the rpm's because they are only at like 300. if you give it throttle too fast(not fast at all) it stalls. when you do get it to 800-900 rpms it runs just fine(you can rev it right up).but you really have to be gentle to get it from 300 to 900 without stalling. It s just that initial cranking and 10 seconds of running which i feel is poor.... |
Bob D
Advanced Member
Username: am_dew
Post Number: 391
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 08:57 pm: |
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My AQ130C with Pertronix ignition and Flamethower coil acts the same way...hard to start after sitting a few weeks or more, but easy to start any other time, and very touchy once it does start for the first 10-20 seconds. |
Jesse
Advanced Member
Username: ruckus3313
Post Number: 196
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 09:09 pm: |
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Hey Bob,
Yeah we have the same outdrive, same trailering bracket lol....,same pertronix, and same coil, same problems, different day !!!!!!
Jesse |
Stan Grygorcewicz
Advanced Member
Username: gryg1
Post Number: 233
Registered: 12-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 10:30 pm: |
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Thats the nature of the beast.I learned to live with it. |
joe_merchant
Member
Username: joe_merchant
Post Number: 44
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 11:35 am: |
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I also have the Solex carbs on an AQ130D and also had the stumbling problem when increasing rpm right after startup.
The first thing is that there's no choke and they're a little cold blooded. I've also found that the problem doesn't occur after the carbs are rebuilt. That leaves me with the feeling that it's the idle circuit. Most likely clogged or dirty passages. A complete teardown and cleaning is best but you might want to try some carb cleaner and a little compressed air in the idle jet passage to see if that helps. It could also be that you've got some screws or the baseplate loosening up causing some vacuum leaks.
With the cooling problem while running in a tub, I'd suspect the lower water tube o-ring. With the boat in the water, that joint would be submerged so would be a less likely candidate for sucking air.
I'm still pretty much a rookie but wanted to pass along my experience in case your situation is similar. |
thostorey
Advanced Member
Username: thostorey
Post Number: 308
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 09:57 pm: |
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Jesse, seems if your sea water pump pumps water when the leg is submerged in the lake but it does not pump water when your leg is submerged in a tub, you have an open inlet water line on the leg, above the tub water level but below the lake water level. Very common and there are many posts on this forum dealing with it.
Here's just one of many:
http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/291815.shtml#POST239424
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joe_merchant
Member
Username: joe_merchant
Post Number: 45
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 12:27 am: |
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The reason I suggested the lower o-ring is that at WOT and on plane, the temp did not rise and was in spec. When on plane, the inlet connector would most likely be above the waterline - at least periodically. Other people (including myself) have seen the temp rise when the connector, gasket, or hose has a leak when at WOT and on plane. However, the lower o-ring has a better chance of still being under water which is why the temp stayed good. At idle, all of those connection would be under water which is why there is also good flow at the strainer when in the water.
That doesn't mean that there aren't problems at the connector but it sure sounds like the lower o-ring is the main culprit. |
Jesse
Advanced Member
Username: ruckus3313
Post Number: 197
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 10:24 am: |
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Ok guys,
I understand what your talking about,however, my motor isnt overheating or at least i dont think it is when it is on plane. I am however gonna fix that anyways seeing it is a common problem. Is the gasket your referring to the one that sits on the outdrive that the connector and hose go to???Thanks for the help?? Any illustrations showing which gasket?? thanks again |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 5000
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 12:12 pm: |
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Jesse, you may want to try putting duct tape on top of the grids and plug the drainhole at the bottom of the outdrive, then pressurize the pipes between the outdrive and the engine from the suction side of the raw water pump. If there is a source of air ingress, you will find it in no time. |
Jesse
Advanced Member
Username: ruckus3313
Post Number: 198
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 01:33 pm: |
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Thank you El P. Im gonna get on top of it before winterization and find the source of the problem. Thank you very much.. Jesse |
Jesse
Advanced Member
Username: ruckus3313
Post Number: 199
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 05:09 pm: |
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Im still gonna pressurize the system,however, is the the part that normally goes bad #29 in the pic???
http://www.volvopentastore.com/Intermediate_Housing_Aq270/dm/cart_id.359863736-- session_id.800642117--store_id.366--view_id.325912 |
joe_merchant
Member
Username: joe_merchant
Post Number: 46
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 06:57 pm: |
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Jesse, Yes, #29 is the gasket. The connector neck (#28) often gets corroded and is another source of leaks. At bottom end of the water tube is an o-ring. That one is #24 and can also leak (that's the one I was talking about).
In any case, do as El suggested and pressure test to identify all the places that may be leaking. Follow the path of water all the way to the raw water pump inlet. |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 5001
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 07:00 pm: |
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Actually, #28 is the part that normally goes bad. The aftermarket kit includes both parts #28 & #29 (Sierra part 18-2778).
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-2778&returntopa ge=sierra_marine/sierra00826.htm |
Jesse
Advanced Member
Username: ruckus3313
Post Number: 200
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, October 31, 2009 - 07:13 am: |
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Thank You guys,
Gonna properly diagnose it but most likely ill be replacing all parts to not a have a problem again!!!!Thanks for the help
Jesse |
Jesse
Advanced Member
Username: ruckus3313
Post Number: 201
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 03:04 pm: |
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One more question,
My service manual is at home and my mind keeps wondering but to replace part#28 and #29 connector and seal do you have to remove the outdrive to service these???Thanks for the help!! |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 5005
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 04:46 pm: |
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No, you just need a 3/16" Allen wrench, you can do it in place. |
Jesse
Advanced Member
Username: ruckus3313
Post Number: 202
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 05:13 pm: |
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Thanks El P!!!
You think one day i could buy you a plane ticket to come visit me and pay you to work on my boat for a week lol!!! not a single good VP tech in my area!! Ill even take you to Red Lobster my treat!! 
There is just so much stuff about my old boat that you are just truly a master with. I envy your knowledge and wished I knew half of what you do with these old VP motors. Thanks!! |
