275 Intermediate rebuild

Author Message   captmello Member Username: captmello Post Number: 17 Registered: 05-2009 Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 06:46 pm:    I've decided to rebuild my intermediate assembly for a couple of reasons. I'm hoping to fix the following issues. 1. I have had an ongoing overheating issue and I'm convinced air is being sucked in at the pivot tube because of a worn top pivot tube bushing. So I want to replace that. 2. I'd like to replace the suspention fork. It is fine except the tilt arm is badly worn and damaged from using it with a failing thrust sleeve. Now it is getting caought up and damaging the new sleeve quickly. See pic. http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq127/captmello/pivotbushingandsuspentionfork job014.jpg 3. I want to service or fix my retaining pawl, if it needs fixing. I don't understand fully how the reverse lock works. when I lower the outdrive fully, it clicks into place and does not kick up. It reverses just fine. When I shift into reverse, the reverse lock appears to be funtioning normally, but once shifted into reverse, I can stlii reach in and lift up the pawl. Its not locking. Here's a pic. http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq127/captmello/pivotbushingandsuspentionfork job016.jpg I've already got it apart and I'm wondering if I could get some opinions/recommendations/comments about this job. here's some more pics pivot tube. Seems ok. There is a little corrosion at the needle bearings. I cleaned the needle bearing in gas. They seem to be fine. Am I being overly cheap reusing the old bearings and tube? http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq127/captmello/pivotbushingandsuspentionfork job017.jpg In this pic, the surface where the bottom of the bushing sits is uneven and worn unevenly. Should I try to have it machined smooth? http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq127/captmello/pivotbushingandsuspentionfork job015.jpg   Ricardo E. Advanced Member Username: ricardomarine_vp Post Number: 665 Registered: 03-2009 Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 08:47 pm:    Have the tip of the suspension fork TIG weld repaired and clean up the thrust sleeve bore. It will be good as new. While in there, take the lower bore (where the push rod/thrust sleeve lock nut enters the fork) and increase the depth of this bore by just under 1/8". Trust me. The latch hooks (as they are called) will not always be fully connected onto the set pin. Once in REV, the entire assembly will raise up fully connecting onto the set pin. If you are clever, you can also have the tips of these built up (TIG again) and re-shape them if now worn some. At $53 each, this may be worth it. Be very careful removing and re-installing the pivot tube..... these are relatively soft material, and the two ends must remain pristine. Some heat on the Intermmediate housing will slightly expand it making the tube go back in a little bit easier. If must be a friction fit, though. Polish the needle bearing surface of the pivot tube. One side will be better than the other. If usable, place the better side FWD when re-installing it. Install a new needle cage and new seals. Grease this needle cage and tube surface well before hand, because this is the lousiest grease porting that an engineer could have possibly designed! Your last image did not work for me.   captmello Member Username: captmello Post Number: 18 Registered: 05-2009 Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 09:43 pm:    Ricardo, thanks for the response. I'll call around for a welder to fix the fork. I've seen a good one, I'll just have to explain what it's supposed to look like. When you say increase the depth of the bore, this will allow the nut to slip up in there an 1/8 inch more, correct? I'm not sure what I'll do with the latch hooks. Again the outdrive doesn't kick up. I think I can clean up the tube like you said and I'll replace the bearings and seals. I'll try to attach the last pic again. This has me the most concerned. http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq127/captmello/pivotbushingandsuspentionfork job015.jpg Hopefully the pic works. This surface right below the upper bushing is worn uneven like a chewed up disk brake rotor. The bushing flange which goes between this surface and the fork was not damaged, nor is the fork.   Ricardo E. Advanced Member Username: ricardomarine_vp Post Number: 666 Registered: 03-2009 Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 02:30 am:    I'll call around for a welder to fix the fork. I've seen a good one, I'll just have to explain what it's supposed to look like. Yes, should be an easy fix. When you say increase the depth of the bore, this will allow the nut to slip up in there an 1/8 inch more, correct? Yes, correct! This allows for a better push rod adjustment. I'm not sure what I'll do with the latch hooks. Again the out drive doesn't kick up. Don't fix what aint broken! I think I can clean up the tube like you said and I'll replace the bearings and seals. Unless severely pitted, it may be OK.... These are expensive buggers! Just put the good side FWD.... that is the side that the Intermediate housing places the thrust load against .... I.E., the needle cage. I'll try to attach the last pic again. This has me the most concerned. This surface right below the upper bushing is worn uneven like a chewed up disk brake rotor. The bushing flange which goes between this surface and the fork was not damaged, nor is the fork. I see that. I've not seen this on top before, but have seen this at the lower area. For this, you could remove approximately .038" from this, and place an additional thin SS washer (same as the lower .038" SS washer) between this and the flange of the new upper plastic bushing. I have these and could send you one. .   captmello Member Username: captmello Post Number: 19 Registered: 05-2009 Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 07:55 am:    Funny you mentioned the SS Washer as I was concidering doing something like that. After examining the housing further, It seems there is a groove worn down from the inner edge about 1/4 inch wide all the way around the surface. I think I'll bring it over to my local machinist an see if he can mill it flat for me. If so, the washer should make a good fit. I'll let you know. Also regarding the lower SS washer, I don't see it on the parts breakdown. I removed the lower one during disassembly, right below the lower nylon washer under the pawl. Seems weird, was this an afterthought?? Unless severely pitted, it may be OK.... These are expensive buggers! Just put the good side FWD.... that is the side that the Intermediate housing places the thrust load against .... I.E., the needle cage. There is some minor pitting on the tube but doesn't seem to bad. Like you said, there is a good side and a bad. Just to clarify, you said to install the good side forward. Does this mean toward the bow? Thank you very much for the insight. Joe   captmello Member Username: captmello Post Number: 20 Registered: 05-2009 Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 08:03 am:    Maybe a dumb question, are the suspention fork and intermediate housing solid aluminum?   Ricardo E. Advanced Member Username: ricardomarine_vp Post Number: 667 Registered: 03-2009 Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 06:04 pm:    Maybe a dumb question, are the suspention fork and intermediate housing solid aluminum? Yes, and a very high quality and very easily TIG weldable as well.

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