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1986 Bayliner AQ131A won't start

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Volvo Penta Gas » 1986 Bayliner AQ131A won't start « Previous Next »

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Randy Lebedow
New member
Username: rlebedow

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Help, My AQ131 was just used 2 weeks ago and now I turn the key and there is nothing, ZIP, NADA.
I did not expect that as we are selling it. never an issue before. what are the options to trouble shoot. Batteries were dead but no clicking even. I replace the alternator and solenoid for the dual batteries. but nothing, is there a fuse that would cause this or what. I need a process of elimination, please.
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Robert A. Fierro
Advanced Member
Username: sandkicker

Post Number: 933
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

AS I understand you post..
1) It ran
2) 2 weeks later it would not even crank (batteries dead)
3) You replaced the alternator and it still won't crank.

If this is so and you didn't leave out any info or steps that you took..
The batteries are dead ( I assume you checked them with a meter)... Just replacing the alternator won't recharge the battery.

There are several possibilities..
1) batteries are old and did not hold a charge.
2) You left something on and the batteries got run down over the 2 weeks.
3) Cover off the boat (or a leak) and the auto bilge pump drained the battery.

Dead, no clicking... When you turn the ignition switch to on, is there any power to the dashboard?
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4971
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Check the starting relay. It is located on the back on the engine by the 40 Amp thermal overload resettable fuse. Part 38 on the link.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Electrical_System_And_Instrument_Aq131a/dm/cart_i d.375112389--session_id.446198852--store_id.366--view_id.324103

And, of course, make sure your batteries are charged......
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Randy Lebedow
New member
Username: rlebedow

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 03:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hey there thanks for posting, I have read alot of you post on some what the same issues. But not beening to mechanically inclinde or good speller. just don't know where to go from there.
No there is no power anywhere when the key is on. also i did push that 40 amp button and still nothing. To give alittle more info. when I did the replacement of the alternator it was running but it would alway drain the battery down fast. and starting was an issue after running for a while, it would crank really slow. if you leave the radio on while boat off it would drain it alot. So I don't. but would like to. thats why i changed it. still happens. we checked it with a meter and it was saying 14 running and just key on.More history is that last year, way to long of a terrible story, it got left out in the rain and snow to -30 C. and the entire engine compartment froze solid. lol. including the oil pan and solenoid for the dual battery. very rusted. so I just changed that as well, yesterday when it would not start. maybe draining through that. we have used it all summer lots, I just had to have jumper cables on board to jump between batteries. yes the accesory battery still had juice for that. but the cranking 1 dead. Added to this was a leaking area underneath thewater pump but futher back to the block. just fresh water coming out no antifreeze. so i had a friend look at it and he ask if it was over heating , not at all, because of the dual cool system. yes it's a miricle that everything was ok in the spring. so i'm not sure where this is located. but right now it does not seem to effect it. is there a fuse other than the 40 amp at the panel underside for any of this or not. where do i go .

thank you
randy
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Randy Lebedow
New member
Username: rlebedow

Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hey Yes I am having the batteries charge today. That will help the fuse I gather. I did swap the assor batter to the crank position that still had some juice, re: jumper cable touching leads but still nothing at all.
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4973
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 04:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Randy, reading between lines I think it could very well be that the starting battery has lost its capacity to hold charge and needs to be replaced.

Back to troubleshooting, if you turn the key on and nothing lits or comes alive in your instrument panel, I would first look at the 40A resettable fuse. You may have to press it hard to reset it it is has tripped. However, you may want to make sure there is power from the battery reaching the 40A fuse. Do you have or can obtain a multimeter? If so, set it on DC volts on the appropriate scale (it has to measure at least 12V). Then, you can test between ground (battery negative) and both terminals of the 40A fuse. If there is no voltage to either of them, then either the battery is completely drained or the circuit is interrupted somewhere between the battery and the fuse. If you get power to one side of the fuse (battery side) but not the other, then the fuse is either tripped or NG. If you get voltage to both sides, then check behind the ignition switch that all the wires are OK and there is voltage to the B+ terminal.

If you don't have a multimeter, a 12V lamp in a lamp holder with two wires will do for testing purposes.
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Randy Lebedow
Member
Username: rlebedow

Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thank you for that I will try tomorrow. You guys are the gurus.
Thanks again,

randy
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Robert A. Fierro
Advanced Member
Username: sandkicker

Post Number: 936
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 05:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

BTW.... exposing a battery to very low temps, especially if not band new and fully charged will reduce its ability to hold a charge if not kill it outright.
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Randy Lebedow
Member
Username: rlebedow

Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2009 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hey there, Well the boat starts, thank you.
Battery was defective, but that wasn't the full issue. checked all the leads to the 40 amp breaker and starter. The conector to the relay was loose I guess. But we took it apart and put it back together and it worked. Thanks again.
Now my issue that I spoke of before with the water cominfrom somewhere. In the back of impeller housing to the shaft. is there an o-ring or seal that it could be coming from? The water is warm, but clean. I can,t find a expolded view of the cooling system water pump area,and detailed view of the fuse box under that dash. like what is for what and what the amps are. Any help?
Randy
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4983
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Friday, October 09, 2009 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The coolant circulating pump (fresh water pump) has a mechanical seal and a tell-tale where the leaks will manifest themselves, and the raw water pump has a lip seal. You will have to pinpoint the source of the water ingress prior to start tearing things apart.

The reason you don't find an exploded view of the water circulating pump is because that pump is (officially) non-serviceable, though it can be rebuilt. Here is an exploded view of the raw water pump, just in case you need it.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Sea_Water_Pump_855578/dm/cart_id.375112389--sessi on_id.471954471--store_id.366--view_id.324014

The leak you are talking about could also come from the raw water discharge from the heat exchanger if gasket 19 is faulty or not tight.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Cooling_System_Induction_And_Exhaust_Manifold_Aq1 31a/dm/cart_id.375112389--session_id.471954471--store_id.366--view_id.324105

What fuse box are we talking about?
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paul demarchi
New member
Username: limbclimber

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have an 86 bayliner with the volvo engine, it won't start. I have put a new battery,new plugs,starter and still nothing.the posotive side of the coil has power.I held the sparkplug up to the block and turned it over,I did have a spark.Is there such a thing as not having a hot enough spark?
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4998
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Paul, you should have started a new thread, but I will answer your question here anyway.

The short answer is "No" (well, in fact it is a "yes", but this is not likely your problem). However, there is such a thing as a slipping timing belt. Check the compression: if low in all cylinders, your timing belt has most likely slipped, in which case you should install a new one.

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