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Volvo Penta 5.O GL water pump

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Jerry Luchuk
Member
Username: jerryl

Post Number: 11
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have twin 2000 VP 5.0 GL PEFS engines with DP-SM duoProp out drives in my 2000 Larson. One water circulating pump (not the raw water pump) pully has some slop in it and I want to fix it. To this I believe I have to replace the complete pump assembly because the play is in the pump shaft itself. Since these VP engines are a small block chevy, is there any reason why I could not buy and use an automotive pump. The marine pump looks identical to the automotive pump and costs about 4 times more. Is there anything different between the car and boat pump that is not obvious? Any advice and help would be appreciated. Thanks. Jerry
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LI Monterey
Member
Username: monterey262

Post Number: 62
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 02:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Impeller and impeller shaft bearing are made for SW use. You may get one season if you use an auto water pump. SW water pumps cost less than $70 where I boat on LI. IMO cheap insurance.
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Jerry Luchuk
Member
Username: jerryl

Post Number: 12
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks for the response but it is not the impeller pump - the one I am talking about is the circulation pump (Pully is in the center of the engine) and is found on every car engine as well.
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4947
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Jerry, I will re-word LI Monterey's answer. if your engine has a closed cooling system, using an automotive circulating pump will be OK. However, it the engine is raw water cooled, the automotive pump will be ruined in no time if operated in salt water.
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Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp

Post Number: 620
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

What you are refering to is the Engine Circulation pump...... I.E., often called the "Circ" pump.
Answer to your question is two fold;
** Yes, you may use the auto version if your engine has a Closed Cooling System. The impeller need not be bronze.
** No, you may not use the auto version for a raw water cooled engine primarily due to the type of seal used for Non-Ethylene Glycol coolant (E/G lubes the seals in a Closed System)
The Marine Circ pump will also use the bronze impeller.

So you have two things going against the use of this......
*wrong type of seal
*non-bronze impeller.

The auto circ pump will live a short life on a raw water cooled engine...... salt water or river/lake water.
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Jerry Luchuk
Member
Username: jerryl

Post Number: 13
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Sunday, September 27, 2009 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks for the advice, my engines are raw water cooled so an auto pump won't work. I also found out that the internals of a marine pump have bronze and stainless steel instead of plain steel which is why an auto pump will fail quickly. Next job will be to install a new pump once I pull the boat for winter. Thanks to all of you.
Jerry
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Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp

Post Number: 630
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Monday, September 28, 2009 - 01:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Quote: "I also found out that the internals of a marine pump have bronze and stainless steel............"

What..... did you doubt my previous post?
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Jerry Luchuk
Member
Username: jerryl

Post Number: 14
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Monday, September 28, 2009 - 05:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

No, just some information I got from a racing engine parts dealer I was looking to buy a pump from. Information here is invaluable when trying to solve a problem. Jerry

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