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Seized aq131

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Greg
New member
Username: drifter

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2009
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 01:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Laugh or grimace as you like, but here goes. '86 aq131, has been submerged, while tied to a dock (stearn of the boat only)and is seized.Don't know how long,1.it was submerged, 2.before it was drained of fresh water,3.since it was submerged. Laughing yet? The person I bought it from bought it from the person who submerged it.Second person filled the cylinders with diesel.I put a wrench and 3 foot pipe on the crank and it would not move an iota. Judging from the registration sticker it may have been 7 years since it was submerged.When you're done laughing..... Suggestions of fluids to use to free up have been,mystery oil,ATF,vinegar,brake fluid and WD40.Stop laughing now,be serious.I know "Get a new engine".But I'm stubborn, so best suggestions on what fluid to use and procedure.By the way,it's in an '86 16 foot Bayliner Capri,minor cracks in upholstery,otherwise good,paid $400. Any comments appreciated, between fits of laughter.Thanks
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4934
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Short of using a few sticks of dynamite, I don't know what to suggest to free the engine without dismantling it. (I hope you are laughing, too).

Now seriously, I strongly suspect you won't be able to free the engine no matter what you use. You may want, however, to try to remove the head first, that will give you a better picture of what you are dealing with, for I suspect the aluminum (both pistons and head) will have reacted with the steel (electrolysis) and the rings will have etched the cylinder walls, so chances are you will have a mess. Then, if you feel courageous, you can try using a piece of 2x4 on a piston that is half way through its stroke (yup, you may need the assistance of a big hammer and elbow grease) and see if you can move it enough to see the condition of the cylinder walls.
Your other alternative is to buy a Volvo car engine (B230 block) and marinize it by using the marine components on your current engine (that is, if they are not seized), which include carburetor, intake manifold, starter, alternator, fuel pump, distributor, raw water pump, cam, expansion tank, exhaust manifold....I think you get the picture. However, if you have to replace one single component, keep in mind you will pay more for that component than you paid for the boat. Also, chances are that the PDS bearing is seized and the u-joints are also ruined (you will have to remove the driveshaft bellows and if you see water, you know you have a problem).

Somehow, I don't think you got a deal, and sorry for being the messenger....
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Greg
New member
Username: drifter

Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2009
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

So... In the interim, before I get around to pulling the head,would you suggest any of the afor mentioned fluids to soak the cylinders? Thanks El. It's great of you to take the time for us poor saps.
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4935
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 02:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Greg, you are welcome. In your current situation, I would not waste time or money with any fluids. You can have the head pulled in less than one hour and do an initial assessment. Afterward, you can decide how much further you want to go and what methods you will use.
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Martin Wagner
New member
Username: cheesebike

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2009
Posted on Wednesday, September 23, 2009 - 01:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Greg and El Pescador:

I too am surveying an AQ120B with a 270 sterndive. Both look to be in excellent shape on the outside. Seller says it has 89 hours only...the gauge confirms this and it seems to be properly hooked up to coil and starter I think. However I tried this afternoon to spin the motor by hand and could not. The boat was last on the lake in '97, its never seen the salt water and everything looks like it is in good shape. The Engine oil is clean and at the right level, the coolant is green and at the right level. The Spark plugs look new...I have yet to unscrew them from the head to inspect them but I am hoping to return to the seller tommorrow to try and gently turn the motor and to make a closer inspection. I do not believe this motor has been submerged...I am certain it has sat for 12 years.

SOOOO...is it worth time and money? in that I mean what is the record of the AQ120 B / 270 System? Is it an oldy but goody? Or is it more of a lemon/don't waste you time with this motor kind of motor?

The Asking Price is $500. I am interested but i have not heard anyone on this forum who swears this is the best motor ever. I am hoping for something reliable and somewhat fuel efficient.

What is the overall consensus on this system?

Sorry for the long post...I will shorten them up in future posts.

thank you

Martin
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4944
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Wednesday, September 23, 2009 - 01:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Martin, first the good news. Those engines are nothing but marinized car engines, very economical to run from a fuel efficiency point of view, they are non-interference (that is, if the timing belt breaks the valves and pistons will not be damaged).

Now the bad news. The so called "marine" parts are not cheap. In fact, you will find few major components for less than $500.

What is the consensus? Well, I had sometime ago an AQ140 (same engine, different cam, dual carbs) with a 270 drive, and I thought is was OK: not too powerful, but reliable. Mine had ran on salt water, so if the one you are considering is fresh water run, even better.

The Solex sidedraft carb is becoming sort of a rarity, but you can always find a downdraft and an intake manifold on eBay if yours becomes damaged beyond repair. Or you can even upgrade to Weber and gain a few HP.

Anyway, for $500 you cannot be wrong if the engine runs. If it does not turn, try a breaker bar and a socket in the front pulley center bolt.
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Martin Wagner
New member
Username: cheesebike

Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2009
Posted on Thursday, September 24, 2009 - 12:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

El Pescador,
Thank you for your response. Today I went back to the seller and proceeded to pull the plugs one by one. Using my flash light and my good old sniffer I found that the #3 cylinder had a puddle of what smelled like fuel and the #4 cylinder had a what a liquid that did not smell like fuel so I assume that was water. With the plugs out I tried the breaker on the Front pulley and i could not get the engine to move. So I will continue my search for a motor and outdrive feeling just a little bit smarter.

Incidentally, I found all the answers to the questions I asked after I left the post for you. Just like the directions said. So again I thank you for your response and I will chime back in upon finding my next victim...I mean motor.

Regards,
martin

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