| Author |
Message |
   
mark lewis
New member Username: mark_lewis
Post Number: 3 Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 10:29 am: |
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I have the bellhousing off and can't get the rear seal out...correct me if I'm wrong but that is the direction I should start from right? the shaft should come out the rear of the bellhousing and go back the same way when renewing the bearing and seals there correct? At any rate I can't get that seal out. HELP |
   
mark lewis
Member Username: mark_lewis
Post Number: 4 Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 12:08 pm: |
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Anybody...bueller...bueller? sorry just cant seem to get a grip on this...the seloc manual as far as i can see doesn't go into any detail on the bellhousing bearing. got the bearing at the crankshaft out lickety split but the shaft and seals and bearing are still in the bellhousing...help |
   
El Pescador
Senior Member Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 4532 Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 12:30 pm: |
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The rear seal (74) comes out with the help of a screwdriver or a bent rod, and it will be destroyed during the process. Then, you have to remove the two circlips (72): one limiting the travel of the seal, and the other one securing the bearing in place. Then, the primary drive shaft with the bearing will come out. http://www.volvopentastore.com/CONNECTING_COMPONENTS/dm/cart_id.223083472--sessi on_id.145274726--store_id.366--view_id.325843 |
   
mark lewis
Member Username: mark_lewis
Post Number: 5 Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 12:46 pm: |
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out the rear of the bellhousing...correct? I have made what your talking about in slide hammer form and yes its starting to deform. and the seal is seated against the larger circlip? thanx in advance |
   
mark lewis
Member Username: mark_lewis
Post Number: 6 Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 12:48 pm: |
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and will warming up the bellhousing help or should i not? |
   
El Pescador
Senior Member Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 4533 Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 12:52 pm: |
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Yes, out of the rear of the bellhousing. Yes, the seal is sitting against the large circlip. Do not warm the bellhousing, no need for that. |
   
mark lewis
Member Username: mark_lewis
Post Number: 7 Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 01:03 pm: |
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just got it thank you again |
   
mark lewis
Member Username: mark_lewis
Post Number: 8 Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 11:59 pm: |
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I plan on getting a sealed bearing...so on that note are the grease seals ( fore and aft ) still necessary? Or perhaps just putting the forward seal in case my drive bellows get punctured? |
   
El Pescador
Senior Member Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 4535 Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 12:05 am: |
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Yes, the seals are still necessary, and they are also inexpensive. I would not recommend removing either of them. |
   
Jay Berkowitz
Member Username: oldshore
Post Number: 45 Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Friday, June 26, 2009 - 07:24 pm: |
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To join in here - I have purchased 2 circlip pliers already and neither are long enough or thin enough to get the inner clip out. This is regarding an elongated extension housing mated to a standared flywheel cover. (1977 Chris Craft Lancer) Any suggestion on a brand/size of pliers to get? Thanks Jay |
   
El Pescador
Senior Member Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 4544 Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Friday, June 26, 2009 - 08:06 pm: |
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Get a cheap pair of long nose pliers and that will/may do the trick, but sometimes you will have to grind the tips. Sometimes, a punch (or a Robertson screwdriver) and a flat screwdriver may also work. There are times when you have to use your ingenuity if you don't have the right tools. |
   
Jay Berkowitz
Member Username: oldshore
Post Number: 46 Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Friday, June 26, 2009 - 08:53 pm: |
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I will try long nose pliers. There are some very cool locking heavy duty pliers out there, some $100, however have no way of knowing if they are thin enough. Very frustrating. For the outer ring I bent a piece of coat hanger wire with a hook on the end and got through the hole from underneath and pulled and pried using a screw driver. The inner one is flush against the bearing - no room to thread the coat hanger wire through. I'll keep improvising. Thanks |