Replacement for AQ131 block

Author Message   Scott New member Username: redwood Post Number: 1 Registered: 06-2009 Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 01:06 pm:    This is my first post so thanks in advance for any responses. I've searched the previous threads and found lots of useful information but need one specific answer before proceeding. I have a 1986 Bayliner Capri 195 with the AQ131 and 275 outdrive. This weekend I was cruising at about 3200RPM with normal temp and oil pressure, no strange sounds or anything when KABOOM, there went a rod. I didn't even have to lift the cover to know there'd be shards of iron in my bilge. I haven't even started to tear into it yet but am operating under the assumption that my head and most or all bolt-on gear will be fine and I just need a new block. I understand the Volvo B230 automotive block is appropriate here. From other threads I've read I'm confused about that block's innards though. Can I just bolt my head to a block pulled straight out of an old 240 or do I necessarily need to change the crank and/or pistons to marine grade? Do I even have to change the head if I find a 240 engine in good shape? What's the difference with the marine cam? I only paid a couple thousand for this boat three years ago, and while the hull has a few seasons left in it, frankly if this repair is going to run me more than a grand I'll scuttle the whole thing. I can get a block for under $300 so I figure with gaskets and nickle&dime trips to the hardware store I should be able to pull it off for about $600. If I'm full of hot gas here I'd rather be told that now and just buy a bunch of really good tequila instead. Cheers!   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4527 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 01:38 pm:    Scott, the VP OHC 4 cylinder engines are nothing but automotive engines with a few marine parts including the starter, alternator, carbs, distributor, heat exchanger, sometimes the cam. No special head, pistons, etc, though some models (AQ151) have a forged crank and different pistons than the automotive counterparts. If you are in a low budget and you can get an automotive B230 block from a 1985 - 1993 244 Volvo car, you should be able to get it marinized with the surviving bits from yours. Chances are the head will not have to be changed, though you will be better off if you install your current cam. If the car head is the fuel injected model, the holes can be capped.   Redwood New member Username: redwood Post Number: 2 Registered: 06-2009 Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 02:11 pm:    El Pescador, Thanks very much for the quick response. You've answered my main question and all of a sudden I'm starting to believe we may get the boat back in the water this summer after all. I'm not sure exactly what you mean about plugging holes on a FI head though. Wouldn't the carb intake manifold just bolt right on? I guess in the back of my mind I may remember there being a '5th injector' for enriching the mixture at startup, but I thought that was in the manifold, not the head. As far as I know all Volvo 240s from that era that were fuel injected, so this would be an issue. Then again, to my mind it would seem easier to just swap the whole head that to swap the cam from one to the other. Am I wrong about that?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4528 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 02:41 pm:    Redwood, I recall seeing heads with multiport FI, this is why I said that the injector ports can be capped. In any case, either way should work. The main reason you may want to keep the new head is that the 4th exhaust port won't be corroded, but your current one likely will if the boat has been run in salt water.   Redwood New member Username: redwood Post Number: 3 Registered: 06-2009 Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 01:19 pm:    EP, you are correct. I looked at a 1985 Volvo 240 wagon yesterday and it does in fact have that 5th injector mounted directly in the head. It's been a long time since I've owned a Swedish Brick so I'd forgotten about that. This particular car just blew a head gasket but the owner continued to drive it for about 10 miles so it probably overheated. It still turns over easily so it may be OK, but I'm not sure exactly how to verify that. With the blown head gasket I'm sure the compression test will be bad anyway. They're only asking $100 for the car but pulling the engine and dealing with the carcass will cost me considerable time and effort. I'll probably just wait until my local wrecking yard can get me a shortblock for $300 or $400.   Bob Wennerstrom Member Username: volvo_farmer Post Number: 44 Registered: 04-2007 Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 01:02 am:    Heck, nowadays, you can get a whole running driving, ugly 240 for $300 if you look around. Most cities I've seen have a scrap metal scrounger who will haul off car carcasses for free too. These motors were so bulletproof in cars that the junkyards can't give away the motors, there's just no demand for them. Time and effort is always a consideration though. Personally, I'd rather pick my own motor from an obviously wrecked car that appeared to be well-maintained, than trust the junkyard. I've been to many pick-n-pull yards and seen scores of good b230 motors crushed for scrap. In 10 years, some people might be crying for one of these short blocks, like they are now crying for the old pushrod B18/B20s, but for now, I think the supply is still plentiful and cheap   Redwood Member Username: redwood Post Number: 4 Registered: 06-2009 Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 12:29 pm:    Bob, you are correct about old 240s at junkyards in most cities. However, I live "behind the Redwood Curtain," way up the coast in northern California. Fewer than 150K people in the whole county and only one junkyard to be found. Last time I went there about a year ago there were 2 or 3 Volvos, but I called this week and they didn't have a single one. I do know that last year they were accepting cars for no charge but you had to get it there, they wouldn't come pick them up. A couple years before that when steel prices were down they'd charge you $100 to drop one off. Not sure what the policy is now. All that said, I've parted out more than a few cars in my day but am just too old to clutter up my life with that kind of business any more. Not sure what I'm going to do about the boat but I'll probably end up just buying a short block that I can drop in with a minimum of hassle.   Sean Williams New member Username: seanski1969 Post Number: 1 Registered: 06-2009 Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 08:50 pm:    I am in Sacramento and I believe the block is the same as an aq140. I have two of them. I am interested in selling them. Let me know if interested. Sean   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4540 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 09:03 pm:    The AQ140 is a B21 block.   Sean Williams New member Username: seanski1969 Post Number: 2 Registered: 06-2009 Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 09:09 pm:    Sorry thought they were the same. Except for the dual carbs.

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