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Please help !! 89 volvo 4cyl.engine r...

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Volvo Penta Gas » Archive through July 12, 2009 » Please help !! 89 volvo 4cyl.engine runs good with blower on « Previous Next »

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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 06:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

engine runs crapy and backfires through carb,i turn blower on and it runs perfect with a flick of the switch,throttles up as it should,i turn blower off and it runs bad and backfires,what would cause this?please help
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4426
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Excessive blow by? Check the crankcase vent going from the valve cover to the carb. If there is a lot of blow-by gas coming out of it, you have a problem with piston rings/pistons/cylinder walls.
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

i had a response in another forum that it is a bad ground,the boat is in great shape with low hours on it,it is a 89 sun runner with volvo penta 4cyl. 230a/sp. I rebuilt carb,new fuel pump,points,coil,entire fuel system is new,i have had corrosion problems with electrical here and there and thats fixed.i will recheck my points,and grounds,i set the points at .018 because it ran like crap at .016 and it calls for .016-.019,what do u guys recommend setting points at?any other ideas feel free,its weird i can turn it on and off with the blower,does sound like it could be just a bad ground
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4431
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 10:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Actually, I do recommend NOT to use points at all. One of the best and cheapest upgrades you can make is to throw the points and condenser in the garbage and install a Pertronix electronic ignition kit (kit 2842 fits your distributor). You will be glad you did.

If when you attempt to start the engine the starter engages with no problem and the engine cranks well, this means the ground between the engine block and the (-) of the batteries is good. The ground in the primary side of the coil is via the points to the block and in the secondary via the spark plugs. Therefore, I don't know where the "bad ground" answer came from, but I cannot see that being the problem. However, I could be wrong....
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 9
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 09:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

this morning i checked the points and they are blue and yellow from heat what would cause that?
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Robj
Advanced Member
Username: robj

Post Number: 118
Registered: 09-2007
Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

To much power going through them. Like stated already by ElP, throw them out and replace them with the Pertronix unit.

Have a great day

Rob.
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 43
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Ryan- we meet again- that burned up points can have a few sources. First- would test the condenser, or just replace it. Second- is the coil your running have an internal resistor or does it run on resistor wire? Your power at the (+) side of the coil should drop to 8 or 9 volts when everything is warmed up. Third- has anyone changed the solid core ignition wires to carbon core and kept the resistance plugs?

Check this out and get back to us.
That modular ignition had some volvo issues -so you need to go to their web site and determine if they are right for your boat.
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4436
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 04:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

william g moore wrote :"That modular ignition had some volvo issues-so you need to go to their web site and determine if they are right for your boat....."

????

Would you mind explaining yourself, please?

If you are talking about Hot Spark (the "blue module"), I am aware there are some issues with it and that has been brought up for discussion in this forum several times. What I have recommended is Pertronix (the original) and to the best of my knowledge there are no issues with it. I installed one of those kits in my current boat 3 years ago, and also had one in my previous boat. Never had a problem with them, which of course does not mean they will never fail. In any case, I will never go back (or recommend anyone to go back) to points.
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 46
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 05:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I only suggested to make sure there were no issues with his ignition- I never saw what ignition he had, so it was just a search for knowledge- But he is having burned points issues from some over voltage or plug and wires issue which will not be solved by an electronic switch. If his point are incinerated by a condenser- OK if it is all wired wrong then Oh Well!

I've converted many points sets to modals and have for the most part, been satisfied with the results, but if you have a basic malfunction of the ignition system throwing solid state components at it won't help and may mask the problem till some thing catches on fire.
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J.C.H.
Member
Username: ruckus3313

Post Number: 67
Registered: 10-2008


Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

El P,

Pertronix owes you another 5 bucks!!!!!
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4439
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

William, according to the Pertronix website, their Ignitor modules do have an operating voltage range between 8 to 16V. The ignition system is pretty basic in those engines and, unless he has a 24V alternator or two 12V batteries installed in series, I cannot see many problems with the voltage.

Of course, there is always the possibility of the system being wired incorrectly or the wires being in very bad shape. But that is a totally different picture.
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4440
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 05:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

J.C.H., I think I will settle for the lobster....
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J.C.H.
Member
Username: ruckus3313

Post Number: 68
Registered: 10-2008


Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 06:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The lobster it is then ......you have Red Lobster up your way???
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 48
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Well that was my point- if his alternator is putting out 18 vts the modal will keep merrily firing away till something else is over heated and bursts or melts- where as already posted his points fried. Now he can go find out what is causing these problems and when fixed -install the modal and let it fire a coil at 8 or 9 volts-where it should. Point is they are to good. Where a cheap set of points will fail like a house breaker, the solid state will not.
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4442
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

J.C.H.: unfortunately, we don't have Red Lobster in my area. However, I expect that one day they will open some franchises around here. Meanwhile, I'll be patient... .

William, I suspect that if the alternator was putting out 18 volts the voltage in the system would still be around 14-15V at the most, as it is installed in parallel with the batteries. Nevertheless, I suspect that if the voltage was too high (18 volts or higher), this would have caused havoc in the instrument panel. Amongst other things, the volt meter would be reading out of the scale and all the lights would be burnt. Just a thought...
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 49
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Thursday, June 04, 2009 - 06:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Well that would mean you would have to look at the gauges. I was basing that on the original first post about "turning on the blower" which draws a lot of amps which would draw down the voltage and pull back the coil output -ie bad cap and rotor failing under higher than normal voltage along with burned points was beginning to show a pattern. And as I almost never went out at night would not know if my dash lights worked or not. Who has a volt meter. All the amp meter would tell you is "everything is OK"
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 10
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

hey guys,been through everything,new points again ,went to a dealer and came back with same problem,engine runs great for about 30 minutes then just cuts right out still,tach is jumping so i unpluged it thinking it was the tach (wrong)problem still here,the coil has a internal resistor,i looked for another resister outside the coil and there isnt a porcelain one and i dont see a wire one,i have only 2 wires coming off coil to wiring harness,i replaced condenser with points,seems to do it more after a rain and if im out riding around at low rpms it starts to cut more and i can usually throttle out of it by working the throttle,this boat has everything new in it now,fuel system is brand new,im ready to pull my hair out!the lights and everything work fine,im goin to test coil voltage and voltage at the points.ill get back later today
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4547
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Do yourself a favour: throw the points and condenser in the garbage and install a Pertronix electronic ignition kit. Alternatively, keep pulling your hair out.

Your call.
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 11
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

just got back,voltage at coil is over 9 volts almost 10,when running i have 6 1/2 any ideas,the coil is very hot when key left on almost burns my hand
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 12
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

my distributor is #231178019 which pertronix kit do i need?
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4550
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

You should NEVER leave the key on with the engine stopped, as you will likely fry the points (or electronic ignition module) and ruin the coil.

The Pertronix kit you need is #2842.
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 13
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

key was only on long enough for me to test the coil power supply,should it get that hot
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 14
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 12:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

i bought the pertronix ignition,can i just plug it in to harness or do i have to splice it in? i have a purple condenser wire,white on negative of coil and purple wire on + of coil,according to instructions i connect red on ignitor to purple condenser wire and black ignitor wire to negative on coil,is this right?
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 15
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

the guys at parts store said plug and play i should not have to splice it in,is this true if so were do i plug it in to my harness,the condensor wire to + ignitor and then - ignitor to where?
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador

Post Number: 4589
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 01:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Not sure about the harness, but the way I have seen the kits installed is the red connected to the + of the coil and the black to the -, then off you go. Just follow the instructions that came with the Pertronix kit.
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 16
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 02:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

thanx bud and lets hope this cures her!
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chris king
New member
Username: cjk23

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 08:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If anyone can help me, I bought a 20' Imperial w/volvo penta AQ 131B 290outdrive. I only know that it is a 4 cylinder. I would like to know the liter size and horsepower, also when I tilt the outdrive up it slowly comes back down on it's own. wondering what the problem is and if that will affect it going thru the water. I'm going to test it out for the first time today. any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 17
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

i got the new pertronix in but i have a serious drain on my battery,i had to put a new battery in,i found that the b- on my alternator that the ground hooks to has power ,very low voltage when not running and when running it has 6 volts at the b-,is my alternator bad? this must have been the problem all along ,as soon as i touch that ground wire to the b- it makes the engine run rough,would corrosion in alternator cause this? if so i will take apart and clean! any ideas ?
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Ryan Hadvab
Member
Username: waverunning

Post Number: 18
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Friday, July 10, 2009 - 01:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

found the battery was draining down because of negative ground wire on alternator which is connected to B- has power,must be a short in alternator,this was the problem all along with the points and the pertronix kit did not fix.with the ground unconnected no more drain on system.will find out if it is just corrosion in alternator,and post the solution.

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