AQ130c (Water in Oil) Manifold & Head...

Author Message   john loring Member Username: uno759 Post Number: 5 Registered: 03-2009 Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 04:25 am:    Long storey cut short ! Boat out of water in November due to water in oil. Marine engineer (thats a larf !) change head gasket & manifold gasket etc (£900.00). Boat transported to Spain and put back in water. Change oil but engine will not start. Two days of checking everything no joy. Call Spanish Marine Engineer who takes one look and says mmmmmm ! water leak coming from manifold into head "common fault" new manifold and new engine head cee ? I,m now crying into my wine thinking where to start. First port of call here. Im no machanic but have no option but to try and resolve this myself as langauage barrier and trying to find help not easy here ? I really need to understand what exactly is going on with the water contamination. Looks like im going to have to dismantle it and diagnose the problem, then look for a solution. Can anyone offer some advice here that doesnt involve looking at the bottom of a bottle ha ! I've attached a few pics to show the problem area tbc. Thanks John   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 3649 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 04:55 am:    I think I would have had a closer look at the raw water pump first! Leaking shaft seal on engine side - engine full of water! I see no corrosion in the exhaust ports. Leaking manifolds normally fills up cyl 4 with clear trace. Your ports looks not that bad, but difficult to say. If engine gets water in oil while running and no water on spark plugs, normally pump! If engine gets filled with water AFTER running, plugs full of water and engine not starting, manifold/ head.   john loring Member Username: uno759 Post Number: 6 Registered: 03-2009 Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 05:44 am:    Thanks for that Morten ... If Cylinder 4 is the one closest to the circle above (namely, the 1st on the right hand side) then the later part of your comment is true. How best can I confirm that this is the true cause ? bearing in mind I cannot actualy start the engine presently. Also is possible to repair the problem rather than get a new manifold and head ? All the best John   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 3650 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 06:30 am:    Sorry, but that is Cyl 1. If that cyl gets filled, I would suspect a defective head or damage on the block/head sealing surface between water channels and cyl 1. (head must be removed to inspect). It looks to be a slight corrosion/salt in exhaust port cyl 4 (left), but nothing in 1?   john loring Member Username: uno759 Post Number: 7 Registered: 03-2009 Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 07:40 am:    Ok i see ! These pics are very out od date, so I think my best (Pos only) option is to remove the head then re-photogragp and re-post. Not done this before so as long as i take it slowly and step by step im sure I can make some progress at very least to identify where the water is truly coming from.   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 3652 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 08:16 am:    If possible, hook 'it' up on a hot water hose. Let the water run through, then block outlet from thermostat housing. (careful with the pressure) With removed spark plugs, a small dentist mirror and a Mag-Lite, You should be able to 'see' inside the cyls. Good luck.   john loring Member Username: uno759 Post Number: 8 Registered: 03-2009 Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 08:32 am:    Morten! Think i may need a bit more than luck here (Larfing !) whats spanish for hot water and a dental mirror ???? also Im on a pontoon in a Marina so hot water not on tap so to speak. Morten you have been a star thanku I will try and remove the head very carefully and see what tell tail signs i have. Im a bit on my own here so help not easy to come by which is why this forum and people such as yourself are so valuable. Ile report back when I have some additional information ok. El John eo   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 3654 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 08:49 am:    Before removing the head, remove the in-let hose to the water pump -plug it and hang it high!!!! Then drain the engine. PS: Aqua Caliente? Espejo Dental?   john loring Member Username: uno759 Post Number: 9 Registered: 03-2009 Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 09:01 am:    Ok got all that ! may just put a life jacket on too just in case ? Should I drain both oil and water ? Remarkably I have actauly got two spare gaskets (Head & manifold plus three new oil filters incase of a flush through). will attempt this later this week.   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 3656 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 09:18 am:    Then please NOT run without thermostat as that will make the engine overheat! Good Luck!   Jason Moceri New member Username: j_moceri Post Number: 1 Registered: 07-2009 Posted on Wednesday, July 01, 2009 - 07:24 pm:    hello i have a 1989 chris craft just bought it and took it out once got back to the well and there was milky brown oil in the dip stick and aswell coming out of brether tubes all over the top of motor its a 350 volvo water pump is leaking as well on a plate that has 4 bolts holding the plate on what could be the cause of this? Please help   Patrick Brenner New member Username: pbrenner Post Number: 1 Registered: 07-2009 Posted on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 02:17 pm:    I have a AQ130C/270 with water in the oil. I have drained the oil, replaced the filter and filled with new oil. The oil turned milky immediately. Does anyone have advice on how to detirmine what the problem is? Any assistance would be great. Thank you in advance! Patrick   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4609 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 02:20 pm:    Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine. If you see water coming from one of the cylinders, chances are the head is cracked or the gasket is blown in that area. You could also get water through the raw water cooling pump if the seal leaks and the tell-tale hole is plugged.   Patrick Brenner New member Username: pbrenner Post Number: 2 Registered: 07-2009 Posted on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 02:31 pm:    El Pescador, thank you for the rapid response! I will check it out more after work today. Would a compression test tell me anything?   Patrick Brenner Member Username: pbrenner Post Number: 5 Registered: 07-2009 Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 06:47 pm:    El, I worked on the AQ130C a bit more last night. I pulled all of the spark plugs and did a compression test. The cylinder pressure was 137 psi on #1 and 140 psi on the other three cylinders (looked good to me). There was no water in any of the cylinders and the spark plugs looked good (not wet, normal looking to me). Then I took the water pump off and apart to take a look at it. My suspision is that the water pump is what is leaking the water in. The impeller looks fine but the impeller shaft has fairly minor wear paterns on it. but it does seem a little bit sloppy in the bearings or sealing rings. You mentioned the "tell-tale hole". What is odd is I can see what looks like an o-ring bent over and covering what I think you are referring to as the "tell-tale hole". Here is a link to a page on Volvo Penta's site showing the water pump that I am working with. http://www.volvopentastore.com/SEA_WATER_PUMP_825916/dm/cart_id.311764311--sessi on_id.260253051--store_id.366--view_id.317258 What is odd if you look at the parts descriptions below the picture they do not show #14 and #15 which look like bearings and a circlip to me. Do you have any other advice based on what I have so far? I really appreciate your help, your great! Thanks again, Patrick   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4624 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Friday, July 10, 2009 - 05:17 am:    Patrick, It is not uncommon for those pumps to leak. Most -if not all- of those pumps have a hole drilled in the housing, at the bottom, in between the two lip seals (part 9). The seal at the left of the picture is to prevent oil from leaving the engine, and the seal at the right is to prevent water from leaving the pump. Should either seal fail, the tell-tale hole would drain the liquid and that would tell you which seal has failed. Of course, when you overhaul the pump, you should replace both seals. Check if your housing has that hole; and if it has it, see if it is plugged. You are correct, parts 14 & 15 are bearings and a circlip. If you need them and you cannot get them through Volvo, any store selling bearings should be able to source them for you if you provide them a sample.   Patrick Brenner Member Username: pbrenner Post Number: 6 Registered: 07-2009 Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 11:45 am:    El, If you have a minute or two can you read this other post? http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/87801.shtml I have the water pump off and did the simple "blow test" like suggested in the post. I blew as hard as I could and did not see any water come through the seals. Do you think this would be an accurate test of the water pump seals? Also mentioned on this post is the oil cooler. Would that be a possible cause of water in the oil? If so, do you have any ideas of how to check/test it? I think with the positive results from the compression test that has ruled out cracked head or bad head gasket. I was really hoping it was the seals in the water pump but I am still not sure. And not sure what to check or look for on the oil cooler. And lastly I really dont want it to be a cracked block and have no idea how you would check for that. If you have any other ideas or suggestions that would be great. Thanks again for your input on this. Patrick   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4645 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 12:27 pm:    Patrick. The "blow test" will work if the seals are severely damaged, but remember that the pump is not moving when you do the test. My point is that because a pump does not leak during a static test it does not necessarily mean it won't leak when the engine is running. It is not uncommon for the oil coolers to fail. These old posts will give you an idea of how to find if it leaks and how to try to fix the problem. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/169348.shtml http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/81349.shtml

Administration Log Out   Previous Page Next Page