AQ131D volvo penta still won't start

Author Message   ralph gillis New member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 1 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2009 - 06:01 pm:    Ok, see my other posts. I changed the coil, checked the fuel pump. all work, replaced numerous electronics still won't start. I checked the ignition switch, got a light on the b side, no light on the S side of the switch. Maybe I need to replace? Also, if the would the neutral safety switch not let the S side of the ignition swithc light up or would it do it anyway? I used a test light to check the ignition switch but haven't tested the neutral switch? I even went directly to the + on the battery to the + on the coil still nothing. turns over, just wont start, yes there is spark too   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4209 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2009 - 06:34 pm:    The S is for Start, you only have power on that terminal when you are cranking. So if the engine is turning, you get power to that terminal. If it does not start and there is spark, either the timing belt is off one notch or more, the ignition timing is off, or there is no fuel reaching the carb. Have you checked that the firing order of the ignition leads is the correct one? That is, is every ignition lead going to the correct spark plug from the distributor? The leads are installed 1-3-4-2 clockwise on the distributor cap.   ralph gillis New member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 2 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2009 - 08:07 pm:    So the key has to actually be turned all the way on to crank not just on? If so, I was misled by another response I had. Also, my timing is good, no issues there, the boat worked one day and not the next, just been trying to get it to run. It starts intermittently then stops and won't start again. Fuel pump and carb are fine, already tested those, already checked compression. This whole thing started after I removed the exhaust manifold to clean out the ports at the water discharge end. Put it back on and now it won't start. New coil, condenser points, batter, alternator rebuilt, drained all the fuel and refilled, changed filter, checked fuel pump and lines, I don't know what else to check, I have spark at the plugs, spark at the coil, just won't start.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4212 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2009 - 09:43 pm:    Ralph, if timing is good, there is gas and there is compression, it is also possible that the engine is full of too rich of a fuel/air mixture to support ignition. Try putting the throttle at around 3/4 and crank until it starts but no more than for 10 seconds or so (you don't want to burn the starter). When (if) it starts, bring the throttle quickly back to idle so that the engine does not race.   ralph gillis New member Username: rdengil2 Post Number: 3 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 09:14 am:    I have checked everything I can find no luck. Could the 40 amp circuit breaker be bad? My relay is fine according to the test procedure and the ignition switch is also good. Another thing could the tachometer be bad causing the engine not to fire?   Leo Latham Advanced Member Username: fixitman Post Number: 109 Registered: 02-2008 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 09:28 am:    I would try new park plugs .   Leo Latham Advanced Member Username: fixitman Post Number: 110 Registered: 02-2008 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 09:40 am:    Spark plugs}   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil2 Post Number: 4 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 10:07 am:    Replaced plugs, coil, condenser, points, checked ignition switch, tested cap and rotor, compression, new battery, checked relay. I have no idea what is happening.   Robert A. Fierro Advanced Member Username: sandkicker Post Number: 551 Registered: 06-2008 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 10:30 am:    Further "EL's" post..."Have you checked that the firing order of the ignition leads is the correct one?.." There are two factors to proper firing order. 1) Is #1 timed to #1. To do this remove spark plug #1. Put your finger over the spark plug hole. Nudge the engine on the starter until the piston for #1 is at top dead center on the compression stroke...i.e., when you feel air pushing your finger off the plug hole... Trace the wire from that plug back to the distributor, remove cap and make sure the rotor is pointed at that connection on the cap. I once had a friend who had the correct order but was 180 degrees off. 2) If this is OK, then crank engine and note direction of rotation of the rotor. Is the next cap connection to cylinder #3?... (thence to 4 and 2, in order.) BTW... A remote start switch is a good investment...Any auto store will have them.   ralph gillis New member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 3 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 08:33 pm:    Ok, so I ran through all the checks posted tested everything again, all good, except where I had 120psi compression across all 4 cylinders, today I have 0. Obviously it won't start without compression. So after replacing all the electronics and checking all the fuel, what are the compression issues, is there anything that would cause no compression, meaning electrical or is it all mechanical. How difficult is this job, is it a head gasket maybe leaking? or does it sound like valves and things in the cylinder, or if the timing is off, would that cause it. My point is what should I check before removing the cylinder head for repair. If removed what do I repair. Please take time to explain. Thanks. I really appreciate the help. Dennis   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4216 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 08:41 pm:    Either the timing belt is off, or your pressure gauge is kaput, or the crank is not turning.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 4 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 08:44 pm:    Crank turns, timing belt is new and was replaced without disturbing the original timing, boat ran fine for two months before I removed the exhaust manifold to clean out the ports, then it started doing this. I tested the compression the other day and it was 120 on all 4, today, after testing the relay and ignition switch again, it read zero on all 4 the gauge is new as well.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 5 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 08:45 pm:    Can someone tell me a the right way to compression check the cylinders? remove all plugs or one at atime?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4218 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 08:53 pm:    Remove all plugs.   Robert A. Fierro Advanced Member Username: sandkicker Post Number: 552 Registered: 06-2008 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 08:55 pm:    It is virtually impossible to have ZERO compression on all cylinders...unless the cam stopped turning at the exact point when all cylinders have at least one valve at least partially open. Pull all the plugs and crank the engine holding your finger over one of the spark plug holes. You should feel compression.. If you do, gauge died, if not as "El" suggested, belt is off or busted. BTW... "Changed without disturbing the original timing"... Yes, but did you check the cam/belt timing after you replaced the belt?   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 6 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 08:57 pm:    check. I just checked for spark again since its dark out, nice blue spark. I know it is sparking at the plug at least. Tomorrow I will take out all 4 and test the compression again and post my findings. If it is no compression, what should I do? My point again would be to fix what I can without removing the head, if the head needs to come off, then I will do that as well, just want to avoid it if it isn't necessary yet. i.e. more testing to be sure. Thanks Dennis   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 7 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 09:08 pm:    belt is on, I only removed one plug at atime, will retest tomorrow. As for the belt, I had some parts removed for cleaning and maintenance. I asked that since I had easy access to the timing belt should I replace it, it wasn't worn out, just had an opportunity to make a new belt swap, the guy told me if the cam and crank were not disturbed to slip off the old and slip on the new belt. I did this and the boat ran fine with no issues for over two months, then I took off the manifold (exhaust) to clean and this started. What do you mean cam/belt timing. I'll check that tomorrow. Thanks for your input. Dennis   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 8 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 05:50 pm:    Well I removed all plugs, checked compression again and zero still, guage is good. Used my finger over the spark holes and cranked engine by hand with socket, my finger got sucked in but not blown back out. Tried this numerous times, no not enough pressure coming out of the hole. Not sure what could be causing this, but I know it is now not an electrical problem.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 9 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 05:51 pm:    also, cam and crank both turn with the belt, no slipping belt is snug as well.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 10 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 05:57 pm:    Can I use a volvo cylinder head off a volvo with the same engine?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4221 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 07:32 pm:    Ralph, the most likely case is that the timing belt has slipped and it has to be repositioned. If I were you I would replace it with a new one, same as the belt tensioner and possibly the timing gears if they are pitted. If you don't know how to do it, search some old posts as this has been discussed several times. Alternatively, get a copy of the Seloc (1968-1991) or Clymer (1968-1993) repair manuals for Volvo Penta. Either book describes the process in detail. Yes, you can use a cylinder head from another "same" Volvo engine (either automotive or marine), but you may likely have to reuse your current camshaft.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 11 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 08:45 pm:    I have a workshop manual, going to take the timing belt off tomorrow and reset the cam and crank the reinstall belt with the markings on the belt. Belt is only 2 months old, like I said previously, the boat ran fine from Jan to March then I removed the exhaust manifold, reinstalled it and it ran good on muffs, then went to go out, wouldn't start, fired on occasion and now nothing. I will recheck the timing. Any idea on which volvo (car) the cylinder head would be coming off? Also, why would the cam need to be removed? Thanks. for you help. Dennis   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4223 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 10:28 pm:    If you have an AQ131D, the engine block is a B230, and the head from a 1985-1993 244 Volvo car should fit. The car cams are normally designed for speed, not for torque. Your engine does have an A camshaft, Volvo part 1336767-7. Don't try to use a car cam on it with a different profile, or (depending on the type of wrong cam you choose) your boat may not even go on the plane.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 12 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 08:27 pm:    Well I'm back to where I was a few days ago. I took the timing belt off, realigned the marks and installed the belt with the marks on the belt lining up with the marks on the pulleys. Followed the manual Don told me to download, the compression is great 130-135 on all 4 so now I have the compression back. Also have the spark at the plugs, but the boat still won't fire. As far as I can tell the fuel system is good, when I dump the gas filter, then start it, the gas comes right from the tank to the filter quickly. Haven't checked the carb today, but last week, I would push the throttle back and forth and it would squirt gas. Will recheck that tomorrow. Anyway, the source of the belt slipping is my next concern. I know the belt was properly installed or at least it was on without disturbing the timing when it was running, what I noticed today was that as the engine turned over, a few times it jerked backwards (battery I believe is almost dead, recharging). I think this is how the belt slipped leaving me with no compression. I am certain it is timed correctly, as I ensured every mark was right where is should be and the belt as well. Any ideas on why it might jerk backwards? Thanks for the help with the compression. I have a feeling I will be back in the engine again. Dennis   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4226 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 08:44 pm:    Now you have to set the basic ignition timing, make sure the distributor is not 180º off, and make sure that every spark plug wire leaving the distributor goes to the correct spark plug.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 13 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 08:50 pm:    Is there something to tell me what to check on the distributor, I already know the wires are correct. my wires only reach the correct plug from the cap, however, I will double check the cap end to ensure they are where they belong. How do I check the distributor? This hasn't been removed at all or played with. Thanks again;.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4227 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 09:12 pm:    Try this: 1) remove the distributor; 2) put cylinder number one in TDC at the end of the compression stroke (make sure the marks on the casing and crankshaft pulley do line-up); 3) Place the distributor above the housing, align the rotor towards number one cylinder terminal in the distributor cap, then back the rotor clockwise 1/8 of a turn; 4) Slide the distributor into the engine, but do not tighten the hold down clamp bolt; 5) Try to start the engine; if it does not start, rotate the distributor a bit clockwise or counterclockwise until you reach a point where the engine will start. You can then adjust the ignition timing with the help of a timing light.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 14 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 09:16 pm:    So undo the hold down bolt and actually lift it out of the block? If that is correct, I'll give it a go tomorrow. What have I got to lose, it won't start anyway. Anything else it could be? What about the circuit breaker (40 amp) on the side of the block near the fuel pump? Could that keep it from starting or is that for the starter/relay? thanks again. I'd buy you a beer if you were in Va bch.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4228 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 10:21 pm:    If you got spark, then the 40 A breaker is fine. However, I thought that the breaker was located by the distributor, aft side of the engine, by the ignition coil. Thanks for the beer offer . Since I am not in the VA Beach area, just drink a couple to my health once you have managed to start your rebellious engine.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 15 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 10:23 pm:    it is.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 16 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 09:53 pm:    lined up the belt and gears, then checked the plug wires for proper connection, my understanding is that on the cap there is a number 1. starting clockwise from the 1 should be the #1 wire correct? so I set the wires from there 1342 firing order, started the boat and got backfire through the carb with no start, did this several times, tried turning the dist. did not start at all, just kept backfiring through the carb. should I at this point remove the distributor and realign? My question is that if the belt and gears are correct and the wires are correct what will taking the dist. out of the block do? Just need to understand what i am doing before I do it. thanks, I think I am almost there.   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 3557 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 10:06 pm:    Take off the valve cover, and turn the engine until the valves at cyl 1 changes, Your timing mark at the pulley should then be at TDC. Turn the engine ONE complete turn until the timing mark aligns again. Take off the distributor cap. Now the rotor should point almost straight at the plug wire for cyl no 1! Does it?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4230 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 10:09 pm:    Not necessarily. Remove #1 spark plug (the closest to the coolant expansion tank) then put your thumb in the hole and turn the engine with a socket and a ratchet (clockwise) until you almost feel no pressure coming through the spark plug hole, then remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing: the lead that will align with the rotor once you install the cap is the one for #1 spark plug. Then, clockwise in the distributor cap, the next one is #3, the next is #4, and the last is #2. If the engine is attempting to start, you are getting close, but the timing is probably too advanced or too retarded. You will have to rotate slightly backs or forth the distributor until the engine start, then use a timing light to set the idle spark advance. Hang on, you are getting close to win.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4231 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 10:12 pm:    Morten, for clarification: my response was posted before I saw your post and it answers Ralph's post, not yours.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 17 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 10:26 pm:    So my wires could still be on the wrong spot on the cap? I set it up from the right of the cap with the imprint of #1 clockwise then went 342 from there.   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 3558 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 10:41 pm:    El: Did not mean to interferer, thought You were sleeping or gone fishing! Ralph: The best is to use the engine physics (piston and valves) for reference and not what might be stamped on other parts. Would not be surprised if You find the rotor pointing at mark #4 on the cap = 180Degree out,   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 18 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 10:43 pm:    I'll check, just not sure I quite understand what I am doing. are my wires correct? That would be my concern first I would think. How would I know if they are.   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 3559 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 10:55 pm:    The contact point on the cap where the rotor is pointing as per above will be where No1 cable should be, no matter what is written/stamped at the cap.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4232 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 11:09 pm:    Hi Morten. You did not interfere (you never do!!!). I just wanted to clarify that my post 4230 was not a reply to your 3557, but rather to Ralph's question in his post 16 about the position of #1 wire lining-up with the #1 mark in the cap. No fishing yet, but I'm getting closer....   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 19 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 09:22 am:    How do I tell which point is which on the dist?   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 3564 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 09:48 am:    I don't quite catch Your question, but: -Set up the engine as described above. -Mark on outside of the distributor where the rotor points with a marker pen. -Put the dist cap back on. - The mark on the distributor should now be where plug cable goes to cyl 1. If plug cable where the mark is does not go to cyl 1 - switch around and get it right. Further: If You have a test light, or even an ohm-meter will do.: Connect it to the breaker points. Set the timing not at TDC but about 4-6 Before TDC. Then carefully turn the dist until the points just open.Tighten the dist adjustment screw. That should be good enough to start, then do final adjustment with timing light when engine runs.   Jay Berkowitz Member Username: oldshore Post Number: 34 Registered: 02-2009 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 10:01 am:    On a serious note, supposing a wooden dowel or brass drift of the appropriate diameter was used (with a hammer) to rap on the aft end of the primary drive shaft? Wouldn't it maybe be helpful in loosening the rust on the spline?   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 3565 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 10:09 am:    Jay: Not quite the appropriate way to get the timing right! But to be serious, I think You posted in the wrong post!   Jay Berkowitz Member Username: oldshore Post Number: 35 Registered: 02-2009 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 10:34 am:    Yup! I did   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 20 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 11:02 am:    Well got it to start first time in a long time, now just need help fine tuning, have my laptop out with me on the boat. didn't run it just let it start, don't have everything hooked up, so what is next? I owe you guys a beer.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4234 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 11:45 am:    Good! Now, your next step is setting the idle spark advance at 6ºBTDC if you are using regular gasoline, or at 10ºBTDC if you are using mid-grade. You need a timing light for this job. Make sure the idle speed is 900 RPM when you set the spark advance.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 21 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 12:12 pm:    El, I am not a seasoned mechanic, can you expalain the procedure for spark advance, here is what I got. The boat started fine, runs a little rough. When I turn the dist. to clockwise it tries to stall. Turning it the other way well, i cant its at its limit on the bracket. Do i need to realign the #1 and pull it out again? The other thing is the timing light am I lining up the degree on the timing plate to the crank pully large dot? if so, i understand that. hoping not to have to pull it all apart again if possible. Anyway, it does start rpm is at about 900-1000 but its rough until I give it some gas then it smooths out nice. Thanks again, you guys have gotten me far with lots of patients.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 22 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 12:15 pm:    also, the manual says that the #4 cylinder is closest to the flywheel, if that is correct, then not sure what I did, because going off the compression pushing my thumb off the cylinder, and checking the rotor position this is what I have on the cap and down the plugs, 1 4 2 3 on the cap and then 1, 3, 4, 2 down the plugs number 1 wire to number 1 plug, etc. does this make sense or are my wires still jacked up?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4235 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 12:56 pm:    #4 cylinder is the closest to the flywheel, therefore #1 is the closest to the coolant expansion tank. Or, if you prefer, the most distant from the flywheel. Forget about any numbers in the cap, then look at the picture (Volvo 4 cylinder) and see where the wires go. After you have connected the wires in the right places, we will discuss the ignition timing.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4236 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 01:18 pm:    Also, if you find it too difficult, you may want to consider taking your boat to a mechanic just to set the ignition timing. They cannot charge you much for that and you could possibly watch how he does it and learn for the future.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 23 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 03:13 pm:    Good news, its runnning fine, got the wires right. the timing light indicates that the 5-6 degree mark on the crank lines up with the same on the timing cover. I think I got it. Can't get the dist. to turn anymore to the counter clockwise position due to the hold down bracket maxing out. however, all timing marks are aligned and the engine fired and the rotor points correct. Should I have any worries at this point?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4237 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 03:39 pm:    It should be fine. The only thing is if in the future you need to advance the timing further, you will have to move the distributor one tooth forward. For that, pull the distributor, turn the rotor slightly clockwise, then slide it into the engine again, making sure the rotor now points a few degrees further clockwise than it did when you removed it. Congratulations, you won!!   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 24 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 05:09 pm:    Well almost won, sea water pump isn't pulling water from the tub through the engine. I can hear it gurgling through the strainer, but doesn't seam to prime?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4240 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Sunday, May 03, 2009 - 01:39 pm:    Check the condition of the water hose connector in the outdrive (part 28 in the link). If corroded, the raw water pump will suck air while the boat is on the plane or whenever the hose connector is not under water. http://www.volvopentastore.com/INTERMEDIATE_HOUSING/dm/cart_id.588658488--sessio n_id.185884495--store_id.366--view_id.324095   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil2 Post Number: 6 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 03:40 pm:    El, got the boat on the water, ran ok until throttling up, then it backfired. If I push the throttle to full, it runs great, but I am afraid to break something. Does it need to be adjusted at the distributor or do I need to be looking at something else first? According to the Timing Light, it is set just in front of the 5 degree mark heading to 10. Manual states 6, but I don't have a 6, I think its close.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4393 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 05:40 pm:    Check that the accelerator pump in the carb is not stuck and it is squirting fuel into the carb whenever you accelerate. If the pump is OK, check that the mechanical advance weights inside the distributor are not seized and the springs are not broken.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil2 Post Number: 7 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 02:18 pm:    Where is the accelerator pump in the carb? Or can you explain the checking procedure for this as well as the weithts and springs. I took it out yesterday and still backfires and bogs down on when throttling up. Boat runs fine if I just shoot to full throttle.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4531 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 03:11 pm:    The accelerator pump is part 15 in this link http://www.volvopentastore.com/CARBURETOR_856126/dm/cart_id.223083472--session_i d.618130672--store_id.366--view_id.324065 Whenever you accelerate, you should see fuel being squirted inside the carb (you have to remove the flame arrestor first). If you don't see any fuel, then the accelerator pump is either stuck or does not work due to another reason. The advance weights are inside the distributor, below the plate where the points are installed. They have springs attached to them, you may want to see that the springs are not broken/rusted, and that the weights are not seized. Ralph, I think you should get hold of a copy of the Seloc manual and take some time to read about this and other topics. This way, when you are working on your engine, you will have most of the answers at hand (pictures included) and a better understanding of the equipment you are dealing with. Of course, you are also welcome to ask here whenever something is not clear to you. Good luck.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 27 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 08:08 pm:    El, sorry. I did a visual, and turned the rotor, the rotor was solid in one direction and springs back in the other. Didn't take it apart though. Put the timing light on and it was idiling where it should around 850-900, throttle up (quickly with no load) gave me the same effect as if under load, bogged and backfired, then took off. Checked the advance timing with the light and it was where the manual said it should be. (I also have the seloc manual). Dennis   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4542 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 09:27 pm:    Ralph, it takes only a few minutes to remove the points and have a look to the weights, then another few minutes to reinstall and readjust the points. I suggest you do this just to clear the possibility of a broken spring advancing the timing too fast.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 28 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 09:45 pm:    Will do. I appreciate the assistance. Dennis   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 29 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 09:42 am:    springs and weights are intact and operational. So I don't think that is the source of the backfire. Any other ideas? Dennis   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4548 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 12:17 pm:    Is the accelerator pump squirting all the way from the moment you move the throttle lever to accelerate, or does it take some time to squirt? If the answer is the latter, that could be the source of your problem.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 30 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2009 - 09:05 am:    Will have to check that today. I put the timing light on the boat while under load and it was at 0, so I adjusted it to 6 degrees while at the dock. Is this correct or should it be set while not under load? Boat seemed to run a little better, but still had the back fire at at about 2000 rpm. Once I throttled past that point, picked up fine. Could an exhaust leak cause the back fire? I noticed what sounded like maybe some air from the manifold, could't tell as now everything I hear now makes me worry. Thanks. Dennis   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4554 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2009 - 12:30 pm:    The spark advance is affected by engine RPM, not by load. According to the operator's manual, the ignition timing should be 6º BTDC at idle (850 RPM) and 32º-36º BTDC at 4400 RPM. And yes, you normally check that with the engine out of gear. If you are concerned about an intake valve not closing properly or sticking, you can always conduct a leak down test to find out if that is the case.   ralph gillis Member Username: rdengil1 Post Number: 31 Registered: 04-2009 Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 08:56 pm:    Question concerning the dist. cap and rotor. Can I use a dist. cap and rotor from the volvo car or is this special to the marine engine? Here is a little update. Ran out of gas about 2 miles from shore, had to get a tow, my guage was off a little (ha) had the wife panicing. Well the good samaritian pulled me in and all was good at the dock when I refilled. So this weekend I took the boat out and on my way out someone asked for my help towing a jet ski that broke down. As I headed to repay the good deed, I quickly ran aground sucking lots of beach sand into the motor, stranding me in the channel and I couldn't help the guy. To make it worse, it was pouring down rain, the boat was too hot to run. so anchored in the channel I removed the raw water pump and flushed water through the strainer. Used my 24lb thrust battery motor to continue fishing (ha, yeah in the rain) and made it about 1 mile to the dock on two batteries pushing a 20 ft boat. funny. Anyway took the coolant tank off and flushed out all the sand until there was no more (did this from both ends) and then flushed all the water tubes and bilge. Any other concerns I should be looking for. I also flushed out the impeller and pump. this led to the cap developing moisture from the hot water boiling over when I removed the strainer.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 4620 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 05:58 am:    1) If you find a cap and rotor that fit your distributor, I don't see a problem. 2) Don't forget to flush the exhaust manifold. 3) I think you (or your boat) may be jinxed and need a good exorcism.

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