| Author |
Message |
    
Scott Klecka
New member
Username: scottk
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 05:44 pm: | 
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The waterpump on my 84 Bayliner with the Volvo 125B needs to be replaced and the replacement pump from Volvo is $937 which is a bit out of the logical range for a waterpump!! Are there any other options? Auto version that will work, good rebuilders, somebody have one they don't need.....
I need some help here, I really do not want to drop a grand on a waterpump. |
bill wright
Member
Username: misterbil1
Post Number: 12
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 06:20 pm: |
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I have an 84 Bayliner with an AQ130C 4 cylinder, I have a rebuilt waterpump that is ready to go. I think it would probably work on your motor. E-mail me if you are interested and I could take some pictures of it for you and you could decide if it will match your motor or maybe someone else out there knows. |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3091
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 08:35 pm: |
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The AQ125B and the AQ130C are two totally different animals with two totally different pumps. The AQ125B is OHC and the AQ130 is pushrod.
Scott, an automotive pump would fit an AQ131 or an AQ151, but not an AQ125B. The difference is that in the former models the pump is connected to the heat exchanger via a hose, and in your model the pump is directly attached to the heat exchanger.
The way I see for an automotive pump to fit in your engine is to install a different heat exchanger. |
scott Klecka
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 09:54 pm: |
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Any thoughts on what different heat exchanger would work and not be to much $$ or time. |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3095
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 10:23 pm: |
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Not cheap, unless you can find a used one for a good price on eBay or a VP boneyard. You may also need some parts to attach it to the block and exhaust manifold.
You may also want to talk to a machine shop and ask if they can rebuild your pump. Chances are they won't but it does not hurt asking.
Also, you can keep your eyes on eBay for a used pump that directly fits your engine. |
ken
New member
Username: kenro
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 10:38 pm: |
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Hi Scott
This may or may not be a solution for you but it worked for me.
I have an AQ-140 that had a dead circ pump. The price for a new one was around 275 bucks and I thought that was outrageous.
I decided to look at a car water pump to see what the difference was. The housings were different but the innards looked like they could be swapped. I bought a pump for a 244 DL and took it apart. I had to press the flange off the shaft and then press the shaft out of the housing. The shaft came out complete with bearings and mechanical seal and impeller as a unit. I did the same to the boat pump and put the innards from the car pump into the housing for the boat pump. It was relatively easy with a press.
The pump has been fine for a couple of years now.
The auto pump cost me a whopping 28 bucks(I bought the cheapest one they had in case I turned it into a pile of junk)
You could do the same thing or bring it to a machine shop and have them do it and have about 900 bucks leftover.
I'm not familiar with the 125 B pump but the pump from a 244 DL is worth looking at. I 'd bet the innards are the same. Maybe El Pescador could throw in some information about this. |
Scott Klecka
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 01:19 pm: |
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I may try that. What would be the downside to plugging the seep hole on the pump? |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3104
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 01:31 pm: |
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Do you mean the tell-tale hole? That hole is to tell you that the mechanical seal is gone and it is a matter of time before that area looks like Niagara Falls. Also, if you plug it, water will reach the bearing and destroy it. |
ken
New member
Username: kenro
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 09:31 pm: |
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Hi Scott
In case you decide to give this a shot,I attached a picture of the shaft with the bearings, seal and impeller.(this all comes out together) You'll see a pencil pointed at the outer lip of the seal, you'll have to put a little RTV around this lip before pressing the new unit into the old housing to prevent having a leak there. And be very careful to press the unit in evenly if you decide to go this route.
I'm not sure why I kept this old shaft but it came in handy for getting a picture you could refer to. I threw away the new pump housing though!
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will c
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 01:43 am: |
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Try depco pump out of FLA they did a rebuild on my d55 sherwood for about 3rd of the price of new.
I dont have the number but they are a large shop and can be googled.
good luck, will |
