AQ225D charging problem

Author Message   Rita Crain Member Username: searain Post Number: 9 Registered: 03-2008 Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 06:52 pm:    Volvo penta AQ225D and while running (idle to revving to 3000 rpm) the batteries are at 12.45 volts (measured with handheld voltmeter), the dash volt meter show 11 volts, and only once when I was running circles in mission bay did the dash volt meter suddenly go to 13-14 volt and I confirmed it with the handheld voltmeter. The red wire to the alternator shows the same voltage as the batteries, there are 2 black wires to the other post one from the engine block and the other from???, the third post on the alternator has a small wire connected to it labeled resistor. I have the seloc manual and found the tests below that I think are specific to the alternator I have, but in the interest of getting to the problem ASAP I am seeking help here. Should I pull it and take it to pepboys to test it? Battery charging circuit test 1. Slide the rubber boot off of the POS+ terminal. Connect the positive lead of a multi-meter to the orange lead (still connected) and the negative lead to an engine ground. The meter should show normal battery voltage (approx. 12V). 2. If voltage is not within 1V of battery voltage, check the circuit between the orange lead and the circuit breaker, and then the red lead to the starter assist solenoid and then repeat the Output Test. 3. If no voltage is shown, check for an open circuit and repeat the Output Test. 4. If the reading is within specification, move to the next test if working on a 51 amp alternator, or the Ignition Circuit Test if working on the 65 amp alternator. Purple "S" lead test 1. Disconnect the purple lead at the S terminal on the back of the alternator. 2. Connect a multi-meter between the lead and an engine ground - positive probe to the lead and negative probe to ground. 3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position but do not start the engine. The meter should show normal battery voltage (approx. 12V). If it does, move on to the Excite/Sense Circuit Test. 4. If the meter indicates less than battery voltage, check the purple circuit between the alternator and the ignition switch for corrosion or bad connections. Repair and then repeat the Output Test. 5. If the meter indicates a open circuit (0V), check and repair the circuit and then repeat the Output Test. 6. If the meter reading is 0V and the fuse or circuit breaker blows each time the ignition switch is turned ON, the purple wire is grounded against another wire or component. Repair the ground and then repeat the Output Test. 7. If all wiring is OK, check the battery again; perform a specific gravity test and a load test. A fully charges battery, or a sulfated one, would make the alternator show normal voltage but still be low on amperage. 8. If everything is still OK, move to the Excite/Sense Circuit Test. Ignition circuit test 1. Disconnect the purple lead at the EXC terminal on the back of the alternator. 2. Connect a multi-meter between the lead and an engine ground - positive probe to the lead and negative probe to ground. 3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position but do not start the engine. The meter should show normal battery voltage (approx. 12V). If it does, move on to the Excite/Sense Circuit Test. 4. If the meter indicates less than battery voltage, check the purple circuit between the alternator and the ignition switch for corrosion or bad connections. Repair and then repeat the Output Test. 5. If the meter indicates a open circuit (0V), check and repair the circuit and then repeat the Output Test. 6. If the meter reading is 0V and the fuse or circuit breaker blows each time the ignition switch is turned ON, the purple wire is grounded against another wire or component. Repair the ground and then repeat the Output Test. 7. If all wiring is OK, check the battery again; perform a specific gravity test and a load test. A fully charged battery, or a sulfated one, would make the alternator show normal voltage but still be low on amperage. 8. If everything is still OK, move to the Excite/Sense Circuit Test. Diode-trio test 1. Bypass the diode-trio by connecting a jumper wire between the POS+ terminal and the LIGHT stud on the back of the alternator. On models with a mechanical fuel pump, you will need to unscrew the protective cap on the Light stud. 2. Connect a multi-meter between the POS+ terminal stud and an engine ground - positive lead to the stud, negative to the ground. 3. Start the engine and allow it to idle. If you detect charging voltage at the POS+ terminal stud, replace the diode-trio. 4. If your alternator passed both the Excite/Sense Test and this test, replace the voltage regulator. If on replacing the regulator, the alternator continues to fail to produce the specified voltage and amperage, disassemble the alternator and perform the internal tests detailed later.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3065 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 07:08 pm:    Rita, you may want to check some previous discussion threads regarding your type of alternator. They seldom give a problem, and when they don't charge the problem is usually the regulator being NG or the field excitation wire being disconnected (the one with the resistor). http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/81728.shtml http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/114427.shtml http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/81124.shtml   Rita Crain Member Username: searain Post Number: 10 Registered: 03-2008 Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 10:23 pm:    Thanks for the helpful info. The resistor wire was feeding 8.8 volts and the connections appeared to be fine. So I took it to pepboys to run a test and the voltage regulator appears to be bad. The guy repeated the test 3 times and each time it was bad. The rectifier is fine so should I just replace the voltage regulator assuming that you can even though it is an integral voltage regulator? Or just buy a new one?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3069 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 10:58 pm:    If you have to buy a new voltage regulator, it is almost worthwile buying a new alternator (not an SEV Marchal or similar, though). http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-5738&ptype=&Eng ine=&Model=   Rita Crain Member Username: searain Post Number: 11 Registered: 03-2008 Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 12:03 pm:    After calling around I found that brodings battery warehouse appears to be a good bet for replacing the voltage regulator. Otherwise the Sierra Marine replacement alternator is $420!!!!!!!!! But more agressive searching yielded this alternator for $150 http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/13068-%20valeo%20aftermarket%20marine %20alt%2011397?&caSKU=13068-%20valeo%20aftermarket%20marine%20alt%2011397&caTitl e=VALEO%20PARIS%20RHONE%20VOLVO%20PENTA%20MARINE%20ALTERNATOR%20NEW%2080%20AMP%2 013068   ray dasilva Member Username: fishinray Post Number: 14 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 09:40 pm:    I bought a new marine alternator off ebay for $70 and it works great! Its a single wire! Try db electric or EMS.

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