Lapping Cone Clutch

Author Message   Mike Member Username: mike77cj Post Number: 98 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 02:14 pm:    My outdrive slips and looses power above 3400 RPM. I have disassembled the upper gearcase to remove the brass cone clutch to lap it. Upon inspection of the cone cluth it does not appear to be badly glazed. The factory machined grooves in the cone cluth are still apparent, but not very deep. I did notice a considerable amount of glazing where the cone clutch seats on the upper and lower gears. I used some fine grit sandpaper to remove this. How should I lap the cone clutch? Can I get away with just sanding the face with some 220 grit? Also, when I removed the cone clutch it was in upside down, with the stamped TOP marking facing the lower gear, not the upper gear. Would this cause the slipping?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3051 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 02:49 pm:    What oil are you using? If you want to prevent clutch slippage, make sure you use engine oil, not gear oil. To deglaze, I would use fine valve lapping paste, then wash all the parts thoroughly with Varsol or similar. The part that says "top" must be at the top. Maybe someone before you had your same problem and figured out that reversing the sleeve it would be fixed?   Mike Member Username: mike77cj Post Number: 99 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 05:39 pm:    I ran straight 30, then 10-40 and with both oils slippage occured. I just finished lapping the cone and seats and they look good. I will fill with 30W and give it a whirl. I know that VP does not advise using gear oil, but I have never fully understood why. Is it because the higher viscosity oil would not move through the roller bearings adequately?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3054 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 06:29 pm:    The first time it also surprised me, as I was used to put gear oil into Mercruiser outdrives. However, when the manufacturer gives a spec, I believe that the safest thing to do under normal circumstances is to follow it to the letter. If you don't, you may end finding the hard way why that spec was made. Morten Ringvold has stated that the original reason was convenience, i.e. one type of oil fits all. However, I have read in the forum of members using gear oil and getting clutch slippage and shifting problems. Whatever the case, I see AQ outdrives that have been running for 30-40 years on engine oil and are still in excellent shape; most of them still have the original gears, and some even have the original bearings. Therefore, I apply the old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" and stick to engine oil (which by the way is cheaper than gear oil).   Eric Bell Advanced Member Username: ejbtech1 Post Number: 431 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 09:43 pm:    Well put EL!!!   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 2677 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 10:28 pm:    What oil to use may depend on a lot. If what You have works, stay with it. Running a 4 cyl Volvo on a 280/290 drive, it will run until eternity with whatever oil You use. I was mainly working with 280/290 drives hooked onto 305/350 and quite some of the AQAD Diesels. 50 hours with some hard driving and load, using engine oil what comes out is not much oil-like, and the smell tells its story. On the taxi boats on the Norwegian west coat they made about 1500 hrs lifetime running engine oil. Changing to Volvo Synthetic, similar to Ultra HPF, lifetime on the drives went up to 2500 hrs.   Mike Advanced Member Username: mike77cj Post Number: 102 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 08:40 am:    Morten, My 280 drive is matched up to a 320 hp 350. It pushes a 23' Formula. I run the boat at 3,000 rpm, never tow skiers and overall am gentle on the throttle. In another post you mentioned it is OK to use 80W gearcase oil. I was thinking of using Lucas 80-90W. I have had good luck with their products in other applications. Will the heavier weight oil adversely affect the bearings? http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=43&catid=4&loc=show I also thought that the higher viscosity oils better absorbed moisture, which may be helpful in an outdrive. Any comment on this?   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 2681 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 09:05 am:    Mike: I would have tried Volvo's synthetic. Think it in fact is a Mobil 1 oil+9+   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3059 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 10:04 am:    I have a 350 Chev (ex AQ311, 307 HP) attached to a 280 outdrive. I use engine oil (15W-40) in the outdrive and so far have no problems. However, if one day I notice that the oil starts deteriorating prematurely, then I will consider trying gear oil as per Morten's advice.

Administration Log Out   Previous Page Next Page

Home / Directory | Engine Manuals | Engine Parts | Discussion Board | Free Classifieds | Orders / Shipping | Contact Us | View Cart

About Us | Terms of Use | Privacy Policy MarineEngine.com, 184 Jones Dr., Brandon, VT 05733 USA Phone: 802-247-4700 FAX: 802-301-1034 info@marineengine.com Copyright © 2000 - 2007 by MarineEngine.com, Inc. All rights reserved

Traduca Traduisez Traduza Traduca Ubersetzen