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Message |
    
eric ekroth
New member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 09:59 am: | 
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i just bought a 1999 four winns 298 vista. it has twin volvo penta 5.0 fuel injected, raw water cooled engines. i'm getting water into the starboard engine, i think, from it running backwards. when first starting the engine, it kicked back and blew white vapor through the spark arrestor. it finally started & ran fine. it was run several times more with no problem, sea trial ran fine. i changed the fuel filters and at that time it again wheezed, blew vapor from spark arrestor and would not turn over. pulled plugs, full of water. oiled engine and replaced risers & manifolds. tried to restart, wheezed 3 times, then dieseled and stopped. full of water again. timing? sensor? anyone have similar problem? |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3046
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 10:08 am: |
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Your engine could have a blown head gasked or a cracked head.
Do you get water in all cylinders? |
eric ekroth
New member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 10:17 am: |
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i did a compression check, ran from 177 psi to 205 psi. water was in 6 of 8 cylinders. i am sure the engine is running backwards (dieseling) and sucking water in because i pulled the exhaust manifolds and risers & even though they looked ok, i replaced them. |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3047
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 10:52 am: |
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Do you have any ignition leads swapped (going to the wrong spark plugs) by any chance? Also, how is the ignition timing and the distributor (internally)? |
eric ekroth
New member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 11:37 am: |
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i don't believe so. when it first happened, i was trying to run it with muffs. then it started & ran fine. 2 days later, repeated started & ran fine for survey. later that day, launchec boat for sea trial, started & ran fine. 3 days later, i changed the fuel filters, ran each engine several minutes each, ran fine. 3 hours later, when trying to start, kicked back and wheezed out white vapor from spark arrestor. i did remove all leads when i replaced the manifolds, but believe i've installed them the correct way; they won't really reach to the wrong plug. |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 11:49 am: |
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can the timing be checked if the engine is not actually running? have someone crank the engine over while using the timing light? if it needs to be adjusted, how do you adjust it? turn the distributor? |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3048
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 11:52 am: |
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But they could have been accidentally swapped at the distributor cap, couldn't they? Your engine is getting water into the cylinders for a reason, so you will have to start eliminating all possible causes, one at the time. |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 5
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 12:01 pm: |
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are you referring to when i removed the plug leads? if so, i only removed them from the spark plugs, not the distributor. or are you suggesting that the previous owner may have installed them correctly? |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3049
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 12:14 pm: |
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Anything is possible. My point is that, in order to correct a fault, you should try to eliminate all possible causes, one by one. |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 6
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 09:01 pm: |
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we got it running today! during the effort to get it running, it kept popping back through the throtle body. wanted to start, but kept kicking back. finally determined that the distributor rotor was not making ground properly. repaired it and it started almost immediately. let it run about 10 mins then shut down for about the same amount of time. restarted fine, no water in engine at all. repeated again, same results. now, i'm going to change the oil & filter, distributor cap & rotor and go for a test ride. thanks to everyone who responded to this problem. i greatly appreciate the response. thanks, eric. |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 7
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 09:43 pm: |
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back to the drawing boards. after the engine ran tuesday, i got a new distributor cap & rotor. installed them, but the engine went back to kicking back, backfiring, popping through throtle body, etc. i went back and checked each plug & wire, properly routed. i even replaced the old cap & rotor that i'd used on tuesday, same condition. it's wierd because on tuesday, it ran really well and restarted fine too. any ideas? |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 8
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 09:45 pm: |
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i forgot to mention that i also replaced the external ignition coil, no difference there either. |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3078
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 10:46 pm: |
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When this starts happening, try hotwiring the (+) of the coil with the (+) of the battery and see what happens. If the sypmtoms clear, then you have a problem in the wiring; either from the ignition switch to the coil, or from the batery to the ignition switch (or the ignition switch itself being defective or having a loose wire).
Remember that you will have to remove the jumper to stop the engine. When you hotwire the coil, it won't shut down by turning off the ignition key.
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eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 9
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 06:32 am: |
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the coil on this engine is not the old, black tubular style with wiring held on by nuts, but rather two harnesses that clip to the top of the coil. will it be a red wire that i could tap into? |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3083
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 08:20 pm: |
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Eric, going back to your initial post I noticed your engine is fuel injected. Hotwiring the ignition coil works on conventional carburated engines for troubleshooting purposes, but I am not sure it will do the same on fuel injected engines. The only things I can suggest at this point is that you have a look at the 1992-03 Seloc repair manual and see if that gives you any ideas. If not, you may have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop specialized in newer Volvo Penta engines.
Sorry for not being able to help further. |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 10
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 06:44 am: |
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well, i appreciate all your input. i still think it's something simple. i may try swapping a couple of parts from the port engine and see what developes. |
dave_n
Member
Username: dave_n
Post Number: 67
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 10:48 am: |
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You have to find he source of the water entry. If you just replaced the manifolds and elbows, it is still possible that one of the elbow gaskets is leaking.
Another possiblility is that you have a Vapor Seperator Tank failure, which is allowing water to enter the tank and contaminate the fuel inside. |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 11
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 10:42 pm: |
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manifolds & risers, $600.00
coil, cap & rotor (with diag) $400
pull distributor, replace pickup coil $200.00
replace ecu $750.00
engine running normally, priceless.
IT WAS THE ECU! THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE HELP. |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3118
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 10:54 pm: |
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This is one of the main reasons why I dislike fuel injected marine engines, despite their better fuel economy and lower emissions: your fate depends of a piece of silicon that, when it fails, there is little you can do to troubleshoot it or to fix, except for replacing it for a new one  . |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 12
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2008 - 01:50 pm: |
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but wait, there's more: i can't find an ecu in stock anywhere and i'm told volvo does not have anything stock either. does anyone have any ideas of where i could look for a new or used ecu? oem part no. is 3858863. thanks, eric |
Stern-driven
New member
Username: bigblock
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 07:17 am: |
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Have you located an ecm yet? If not I have a good one from a 2000 5.0 L that can be reprogramed to a 1999 5.0L |
Mike
Advanced Member
Username: mike77cj
Post Number: 190
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 09:30 am: |
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Eric,
If you can not find a VP ECU, there are a lot of vendors that program custom ECUs for EFI setups. Try a Google search. I have had good luck with a few. |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 14
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 11:57 am: |
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hello stern-driven: thanks for the info. how do you have an ecu reprogrammed? who does this? how much do you want for the one you have? would the one from the 2000 5.0 not work without reprogramming? thanks, eric. |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 15
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 12:09 pm: |
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mike: what would i google to get information on custom ecu's for my boat? |
Mike
Advanced Member
Username: mike77cj
Post Number: 194
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 01:54 pm: |
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Eric,
Try these links:
http://www.azspeed-marine.com/mapepa.html
http://ecmprogramming.com/default.aspx
http://www.pcmforless.com
I know that Arizona Speed and Marine will recalibrate your orginal ECM for you. Much less than a VP replacement.
Another idea would be to pick up an ECM out of an F150 or Mustang with a 5.0. You could have someone program (flash) a custom chip for you. (Basically you want the ECU to remain in OPEN loop 24/7 and ignore O2 sensor(s) input.) I have had chips flashed for as little as $75. Can you take a photo of the ECU and upload it? I would need to see the connectors and body to see if a swap like this is possible. |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 16
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 02:26 pm: |
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mike: my 5.0 is a gm product; 5.0gi pwtr. of you still want me to take a picture of the ecu, let me know. thanks, eric. |
Stern-driven
New member
Username: bigblock
Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 05:33 pm: |
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Eric : I know one of the Volvo field reps that can have it reprogramed for me, as to will the ecm work with the current cal - it will run but the program will be looking at the engine as if it was a 2000 model with I believe a added sensor it looks at. as for the price I will sell it for 625.00 which includes shipping. |
eric ekroth
Member
Username: dach_side
Post Number: 17
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 05:51 pm: |
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would that include the reprogramming also? what if i get it here and it does not work? thanks, eric. |
Stern-driven
Member
Username: bigblock
Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 08:35 pm: |
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The price would include the reprogramming and shipping, It will be tested before being shipped to confirm the programming so it will not be DOA, if your problem is not the ECM then you will still have the same problem. you can email me if you like at wayfastbigblock@hotmail.com |
