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david rogers
Member
Username: dbrogers
Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 03:59 pm: | 
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Below is my original topic RE: Oil change question.
In that thread, El Pescador said could be hydrolocked, and I believe it was.
Removed all 6 plugs, only cylinder 6 was wet. Had roughly a couple oz of water in it. Weird thing is, it never was a problem before until I did simple oil change, after oil change complete, thats when she hydrolocked.
Please help with suggestions, thoughts, ideas as to what may have happened, and how to fix, or at least patch and get her back on the Lake.
Thanks,
David
original post:
http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/149998.shtml
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El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 2961
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 09:01 pm: |
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David, I don't think the oil change had much to do with the hydrolocking. To me, either: 1) you have a problem with a corroded exhaust manifold/riser and it leaked into the exhaust port of cylinder #6; 2) One of the heads is cracked; 3) A head gasket is blown; or 4) You had the boat in the water, stopped the engine, it fired backwards, and it sucked water into cylinder #6. I am assuming that your engine is raw water cooled, so please correct me if I am wrong.
If you dismantle your manifolds/risers, you can evaluate their condition. If they are good, the next step would be dismantling the suspect cylinder head. If you find a blown gasket, just replace it, but I would still take the head to a shop to pressure test it.
And if the head is cracked, there is a chance it could be repaired. If not, a new head should not be terribly expensive, especially if you buy it aftermarket rather than through Volvo Penta. |
david rogers
Member
Username: dbrogers
Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 09:05 am: |
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Yes it is water cooled.
I do a lot of dry starting of my boat. I found that letting it sit for a couple or more weeks, tends to make for hard or difficult starts, so I twice a week, put on the flushers, turn water on medium pressure, then fire up the boat and let run for 5 - 10 mins, then shut off, then turn off water and remove flushers. I thought this was a good practise, but not so sure anymore.
I used a manual pump evac to suck old oil from dip stick hole, I believe this somehow pulled water into that cylinder. The dip stick is coincidentally right next to #6 cylinder.
What are your thoughts? and thank you for your time and info you've given as well.
David |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 2967
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 08:34 pm: |
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I don't see how you could possibly suck water into a cylinder by sucking oil through the dipstick tube. Also, I already outlined in my previous post what I think are your best options. |
Eric Bell
Advanced Member
Username: ejbtech1
Post Number: 417
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 10:59 pm: |
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nope....not possible......... |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2632
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 11:54 pm: |
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Be sure Your boat is not 'on the nose' when stored on the trailer. Try leveling the trailer so the water-line of the boat (when floating) is in water level.
An other thing might be the manifold You are using. The original ones has a divider casted in,splitting cyl 1&2 and 3&4. On some aftermarket this divider is missing, making hydro-lock more easier of the cyl 3 & 4. |
david rogers
Member
Username: dbrogers
Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, April 20, 2008 - 08:54 am: |
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Well I replaced both riser elbow gaskets as they were visually corroded and even saw leak marks down side of each. I was really hoping this was the end of it. I then used a wet/dry shop vac, taped a smaller clear tube to end of nozzel, and put through spark plug hole #6 and literally sucked ALL water out.
Put in plugs, and she started right up! Yea! But no.... After shut down, hydrolocked again, and another 1/2 cup of water back in #6 
Wow, what a big dissapointment. I guess now I need to tear down to head gasket. I'm freakin terrified the whole engine is gone or something. |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 2989
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, April 20, 2008 - 11:10 am: |
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First, you need to pressure test the exhaust manifold. If it is perforated, the hydrolocking will reoccur.
If the manifolds/risers are OK, then is the time to dismantle the head and see what you find. |
david rogers
Member
Username: dbrogers
Post Number: 8
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 22, 2008 - 11:28 am: |
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Roger that. Manifold tested fine. Still not having taken head off, from what I can see of the head gasket, it looks bad. I will get into it this week. Any website "how to" for tips, etc? I have manual, but it's a bit vague. Also, if is gasket (or if not) would it be prudent to do left side as well?
Thanks, El... |
david rogers
Member
Username: dbrogers
Post Number: 9
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 22, 2008 - 01:42 pm: |
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btw, looking through my manual, not sure if I have to disasemble rockers to remove cylinder head.
Do you know if need to?
Also, Manual doesn't say remove carb from intake, just remove stuff in way, fuel lines, etc... then remove intake> Am I missing something here, or can carb stay on intake and can still remove intake? |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3010
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 22, 2008 - 08:18 pm: |
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1) I would concentrate in the head that is giving you grief and leave the other one alone. Once you remove it, if the gasket looks fine, consider pressure-testing the head.
2) As a rule, try not to take apart more parts than you need. However, I think you will work better with the carb removed (it is only 4 bolts/nuts and a gasket anyway).
3) You need to remove the rockers to take the pushrods out of the way. No big deal. |
david rogers
Member
Username: dbrogers
Post Number: 10
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 02:33 pm: |
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ok, pulled the Intake. Some water came out as I was lifting the Intake up and off the Block. I did drain both Manifolds and the block before started project.
El, can you look at the pics I have at the below link and let me know your thoughts about condition. I noticed some wetness in a couple of the exhaust ports in the pics, you'll see. Could have been from when the water came out, or is this normal, as in, the drainage wasn't complete?
http://picasaweb.google.com/DBRogers/2001GM43GLVolvoPEngine
Thank you |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 3020
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 10:14 pm: |
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Difficult to say, but the intake port for cylinder #1 appears wet. My first guess is that the intake manifold could be perforated, or the head could be cracked. You will have to pressure-test them to find out. |
david rogers
Member
Username: dbrogers
Post Number: 11
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 04:03 pm: |
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UPDATE:
ok, thanks to all and of course El P. The situation ended up a blown head gasket. I removed both heads, pressure tested fine, had resurfaced and valve job. I put everything back together, and shes running really good. This boat is so dam baby'd, she better run for a good long while!
Anyway, happy boating all!
Thanks again,
David |
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