| Author |
Message |
   
alan levy
Member Username: abl1111
Post Number: 28 Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 04:54 pm: |
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Is there an equal, quality option for a distributor cap and rotor other than the $$$ Mercruiser brand ? |
   
Bt Doctur
Senior Member Username: bt_doctur
Post Number: 1223 Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 05:24 pm: |
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If $26.20 is that expensive for you ,your in the wrong hobby.Check the engine parts section in here for 18-5273 |
   
alan levy
Member Username: abl1111
Post Number: 29 Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 05:35 pm: |
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With all due respect - the kit costs $109 and I have to change it out every year ( as per my Mercruiser mechanic ) due to moisture under the cap that creates a misfiring situation. |
   
Bt Doctur
Senior Member Username: bt_doctur
Post Number: 1225 Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 05:46 pm: |
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Delco EST cap/rotor $26.80 oem 808483Q2 T-Bolt cap/rotor $26.20 What exotic ign system do you have that costs that much, if your including the module itself that might be a bit more |
   
Bt Doctur
Senior Member Username: bt_doctur
Post Number: 1226 Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 05:50 pm: |
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http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-5281&returntopa ge=sierra_marine/sierra00592.htm http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-5273&returntopa ge=sierra_marine/sierra00592.htm |
   
alan levy
Member Username: abl1111
Post Number: 30 Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 06:17 pm: |
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Nope it's just a standard, 2001 Mercruiser Cap'n Rotor. This is it - ( not very exotic, hypothetically made in the USA ): Mercruiser MPI Distributor cap rotor kit V8 898253t29 There are replacement parts and there are replacement parts - I'm looking for equal to or better than OEM. |
   
Kghost
Senior Member Username: kghost
Post Number: 1095 Registered: 07-2008

| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 06:31 pm: |
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First off you do NOT have to replace it every year. If you have a moisture problem, solve that first. The cap should have a gasket. it is self adheasive to the cap. The cap, Rotor, and sensor pick up (at base of distributor) should last at least 300 to 500 hours without an issue. My thunderbolt IV igniton has been in my boat since 1996 ( cap, rotor, sensor pickup, wires. plugs). I have put approx 500 hours or so in that time. 30-40% of that time was in the water all season at a dock. also you can coat all the ignition components with a water resisitant marine spray. It leaves a waxy coating and will also help resist moisture. I dont know what your mechanic is selling but I personally dont buy it........ Again solve the moisture issue first!! |
   
Bt Doctur
Senior Member Username: bt_doctur
Post Number: 1227 Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 06:33 pm: |
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Singapore,Taiwan, China, Take youre pick. Almost every manufacuruer imports everything. |
   
alan levy
Member Username: abl1111
Post Number: 31 Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 06:58 pm: |
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There is no OEM gasket. I wish there was. I have tried to make one w/ caulk gasket material and indian head, but the 'lip' is 1/16" or less - too fragile. I agree - there should be a gasket in a marine environment. I am playing w/ trying to make one with silicone. Be that as it may, every (2) months or so, my motor will misfire at higher RPM's - I remove the cap and see that the ignition contacts within the cap are 'fuzzy'. I clean it and am on my way. My dizzy is located right at the seam / opening of my i/o cover - not an ideal location. There is a 1" lip to prevent rain water from getting in, but spray must make it's way in and voila moisture. For example, right now the (2) screws that hold the rotor in place are pretty rusted - one has a stripped phillips head and I'll have to crack the rotor off to get the screw off... My mechanic says the 'fuzzy cap' has been an issue w/ many of these motors and although ideally it shouldn't happen, in reality there is a moisture problem. I know a couple of other guys who deal with it and just clean their old caps and re-install ( different model boats too )... So, I'd love advice on this and also where I might buy a aftermarket cap/rotor without losing QUALITY. The waxy water resistant stuff, is called 'cosmoline' - sounds like a good application, but some kind of mechanical gasket would be better. I do 665 lube the entire motor 2-3 times a season (7 months ). Thanks BTW: The motor is 8-9 years old and looks new. I maintain it myself. |
   
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member Username: guyjg
Post Number: 5487 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 07:37 pm: |
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Put some "never sieze" on the screw threads and coat the screw tops w/clear nail polish. Check w/an auto/truck parts dealer to see if you can find a thin "O" ring. |
   
Kghost
Senior Member Username: kghost
Post Number: 1098 Registered: 07-2008

| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 06:27 am: |
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What year is your motor? You could make a plastic cover that will go from the carb stud all the way back and cover the dist. Merc actually made a cover that way for a while. Every merc dist cap I have ever purchased had a gasket with it...... |
   
Boat Tech
New member Username: boat_tech
Post Number: 1 Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 06:59 am: |
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What is your engine serial??? Have your mercruiser dealer look up service bulletin # 2003-06, v6&v8 [GMEFI] NO START MISS FIRE OR ENGINE CUT OFF CONDITIONS. If you are within the serial number range, Then you will be in need of a new style distributor housing/Shaft with a redesigned vent screen to allow better air circulation inside the cap to prevent the accumulation of moisture. Engines with a higher S/N then the ending S/N listed have the new style HVS distributor. Models affected mcm 350 mpi OM320590-OM642305 Also MCM 5.0 MPI OM320415-OM642305. also MCM6.2 MPI OM320614-OM642305 and also MCM4.3 OM322781- OM645782 And some inboards also within that time frame. Now I'm not saying this is your problem just something to look into is all, Also if your S/N is within this bulletin Keep in mind you are way out of any warranty time frame and bulletins do expire and this would not be covered in anyway by mercruiser, I just posted this so you have something different to look at is all. Good luck to you with your engine problem. |
   
baytro23
Member Username: baytro23
Post Number: 73 Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 03:25 pm: |
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My 1994 thunderbolt IV has been trouble free. I even re-used it when I repowered. 1994 ignition with a 2006 vortec block. Spark plugs and replaced wires when I repowered is all that's been done to mine. |
   
alan levy
Member Username: abl1111
Post Number: 32 Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 09:09 pm: |
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THANK YOU BOAT TECH !!!!! |
   
mike weakley
Member Username: mikey43
Post Number: 20 Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 10:08 pm: |
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hey everybody talkn about a thunderbolt IV dist where can you get parts? can you test a ign module? do they go bad? |
   
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member Username: guyjg
Post Number: 5488 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 11:50 am: |
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Tests for Thunderbolt Ignition: W/ignition key on AND BILGE WELL VENTILATED OF GAS FUMES!!! Check the kill switch first! #1 - Connect your voltmeter neg. lead to the engine ground and pos. lead to the white/red wire terminal at the dist. It should read 12 volts. #2 - If 12 volts are present, remove the coil spark wire from the distributor and connect it to a spark gap tester to ground. Remove the white/green lead from the dist. terminal. Turn the ign. key to on and strike the white/green lead to ground. If there is spark, replace the ignition sensor in the dist. #3 - If there is no spark, substitute a new coil and repeat test #2. Now if you get spark, install a new coil. NO SPARK, replace ign. amp. #4 - In #2, if there is No voltage present, disconnect the white/red wire and check it again for 12 volts. If 12 volts is present, replace the ignition sensor inside the dist. cap. If no 12 volts present w/it disconnected--ignition amplifier is shot and must be replaced. |
   
mike weakley
Member Username: mikey43
Post Number: 21 Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 07:47 pm: |
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thank you guy good info will try |
   
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member Username: guyjg
Post Number: 5490 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 10:36 pm: |
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You're welcome. You can get the parts from this site or any Merc. dealer or even eBay has good prices. Check your wiring and connections. If the optic sensor is rusted that could be the problem; fine wires corrode. Let me know what year and engine and what you find and I'll help you find parts. |
   
alan levy
Member Username: abl1111
Post Number: 33 Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 24, 2009 - 04:43 pm: |
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I want to thank you guys for helping out. I was able to get to the bottom of the problem - there is a Mercruiser upgrade for my year / serial # dizzy that is directly related to the moisture issue I have. So, hopefully, I will not need to be replacing caps and rotors anymore !!!! Now, I would love to get my hands on or make a rain / water diverter that connects to the flame arrestor bolt ( even though I have an FI ) and leads water aft, away from the ignition... Any takers on this ? |
   
Kghost
Senior Member Username: kghost
Post Number: 1119 Registered: 07-2008

| | Posted on Tuesday, November 24, 2009 - 05:33 pm: |
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I am not sure what you have on top of your flame arrestor now but this is what I have.... It covers the distributor
 |
   
Kghost
Senior Member Username: kghost
Post Number: 1120 Registered: 07-2008

| | Posted on Tuesday, November 24, 2009 - 05:34 pm: |
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You could also modify it a bit so it goes further back and covers more of the distributor if you had to. |
   
Chris Solleder
Member Username: scooter111
Post Number: 20 Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, November 29, 2009 - 04:19 am: |
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did the problem with the distributor affect 2001 350MPI or later model? I am having issues with misfire which I can't solve. |
   
Robert A. Fierro
Advanced Member Username: sandkicker
Post Number: 980 Registered: 06-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, November 29, 2009 - 08:49 am: |
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The water and/or moisture inside the dist may not be related to anywater dripping on top of it. Given that the dist is essentially sealed, if you have normal temp variations in essentially a 100% humidity situation, i.e. in your boat in the bilge, then moist air gets sucked into the dist via the vent when the temp drops...it condenses on the inside of the dist/cap... temp rises, and the now less moist air is expelled out the vent... next evening same cycle repeats. Same process as that which makes your car windshield "fogged" in the very early am...except its inside your distributor and it does not dissipate. |
   
alan levy
Member Username: abl1111
Post Number: 37 Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Monday, November 30, 2009 - 09:55 am: |
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I have a 2001 350 MAG MPI and it affects mine. Pull off dizzy and check the contacts ( be careful not to drop the torx head screws in bilge! ). It's been a real hassle and the above description of 'fog' in the dizzy seems like the culprit... |
   
Chris Solleder
Member Username: scooter111
Post Number: 21 Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 30, 2009 - 01:32 pm: |
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I did pull mine off the other day. I noticed the black corrosion on some of the contacts and others were clean. I posted a photo on my thread with comments. what did you actually replace. the whole dizzy? |
   
alan levy
Member Username: abl1111
Post Number: 38 Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Monday, November 30, 2009 - 02:16 pm: |
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I was getting white and grey 'fuzz', nothing black. I am going to replace the whole dizzy |