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Mercruiser- Bravo III, shift to rever...

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Mercruiser Sterndrive » Mercruiser- Bravo III, shift to reverse hanging up « Previous Next »

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scott anderson
New member
Username: sander9878

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

1). I have a Merc Bravo III outdrive... 1997

2). I have non-positive shift to reverse, forward is good. Reverse slips and then grabs....

3). The shift cable and adjustments are new and not the source of the problem.

4). I've pulled the shift cam cover and found all to look well except that the vertical shaft that the shift cam assembly is attached to has about 3/8" of vertical movement. I would think that this should be held in place such that vertical movement is not allowed. Otherwise the up/down force of the cam to clutch would be minimized. Is this movement a problem?

Any ideas?
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Bt Doctur
Senior Member
Username: bt_doctur

Post Number: 1193
Registered: 06-2006
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/11/11covr5x.pdf
Here is the manual
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scott anderson
New member
Username: sander9878

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks BT, I have the full manual set.
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Kghost
Senior Member
Username: kghost

Post Number: 1043
Registered: 07-2008


Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Remove the shift linkage between the vertical shaft and the linkage end (that opens and closes on the cable end) Take a close look at that as the pin that allows the back and forth to side movement, it wears out and the hole becomes a slot and causes shifting issues. If that is the case then the shift cable adjustment must be redone when the linkage parts are replaced.

Also look close at the shift cam that moves the cone clutch up and down for excess wear and the cone clutch in the center and see if the grooves are wasted.

if all these are good then the ujoint shaft assembly must be removed and the gear/cone clutch assembly must be removed and disassembled and the parts need inspection. ( maybe a broken spring )
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scott anderson
New member
Username: sander9878

Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thank you Kghost.
) The worn out hole in the vertical shaft sounds likely, however, when I had this exposed I did my best to determine if I had slop at this point, and I did not. I will check it again.
) The shift cam looked good.
) Clutch pack, broke spring...Hopefully not, but something is hanging up..

*** What about the movement up and down of the vertical shift shaft? Do you think this is normal?
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Kghost
Senior Member
Username: kghost

Post Number: 1044
Registered: 07-2008


Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 03:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I was not refering to the vertical shaft.

The vertical shaft "floats" if you will.
The rotational movement is what controlls the shift cam

See the attached to see what I am reffering to.


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Kghost
Senior Member
Username: kghost

Post Number: 1045
Registered: 07-2008


Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

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scott anderson
Member
Username: sander9878

Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 04:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks Kghost
Great graphic and description, much appreciated. I now see clearly the pin/hole your refering too. I will check this again, looked solid without slop on first inspection.

I know Im fixated with the vertical shaft and cam assembly item 29 (in sketch) raising and lowering 3/8" with cover off.... I would think it would need to hold position (up/down) so that cam rotation up/down force to clutch can be achieved. The question is "when you pull the aft cover and are looking at the cam/shaft assembly, ids it normal for it to move up and down 3/8"?"

I really appreciate your help... I'm making astand now so that I can work on it better in the shop.... my local dealer, whom is a great guy, says if any part in clutch/cone pack is bad, I have to buy a total rebuild set, bearings, clutch pack, all complete in order to have a matched updated set.... $1400...we'll see
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Kghost
Senior Member
Username: kghost

Post Number: 1046
Registered: 07-2008


Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 05:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I just did one and yes it is true. They upgraded/updated the assembly a few times and now for the older models you gots to buy it all!!

Also there is a special bearing race driver/hirght setting tool needed if you go that route and it cost about $25. Maybe he will lone it to you as you ned to reset bearing race hieghts in the cap and the housing....Ask me how I know...........

""with cover off.... "" I think you answered your question........
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Kghost
Senior Member
Username: kghost

Post Number: 1047
Registered: 07-2008


Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 05:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Also the cam shift actuator is essencally a self centering device I believe and when turned the cams force the cone clutch up or down. The gear lube keeps it lubed....
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scott anderson
Member
Username: sander9878

Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 05:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Kghost

Thanks.... Yes I had basically fealt that the problem was internal, I just didnt know about the shaft up/down, thanks for your patiance and help. Just seems like something catching, a broken spring getting caught or something. Once it grabs, its all good to go.
My dealer does loan me tools, hes real cool.
Thanks again

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