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Winterization

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Mercruiser Sterndrive » Winterization « Previous Next »

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michael knapp
Advanced Member
Username: draven620

Post Number: 134
Registered: 07-2007


Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I just have a question i have a 4 cylnder 140 hp mercruiser.I used to have a omc 400 I was debating between taking it to the shop or doing it my self.I am pretty sure i know how to winterize it myself but i want to be sure there are only 2 drains for my motor correct 1 for the manifold 1 for the block.The omc 400 I had I took off the drains peticocks took all the hoses of at the thermastat and poured 50-50 antifreeze until that is all i saw coming out of drains reinstalled drains and then filled up block and exauhst manifolds with antifreeze and then poures some through the hose down to the water pump until i saw it draining out.put hoses back on and then changed oils and good for the winter is it the same for my merc.And I was also wondering do I change my fuel water seperater filter before or after winter.I know I have another good month before I need to winterize but if I have to take it to the shop it has to be in by mid sept or it probablly wont get in till december.
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Kghost
Advanced Member
Username: kghost

Post Number: 883
Registered: 07-2008


Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Contact me thru my email and I will give you my phone number and tell you excatly how to do it......what to use and not to use and the tools needed and how long it will take you.


Damn, I should just make a video to answer all the winterization questions............boy that would save so much time answering all the upcomming questions........
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Kghost
Advanced Member
Username: kghost

Post Number: 884
Registered: 07-2008


Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Winterization for a merc 140 4 cylinder.


1. Add appropriate amount of Stabil to gas tank.
2. Remove lower unit oil fill plug and check for water contamination. If oil looks good reinstall plug. If oil is milky or water comes out, outdrive must be serviced to find bad seal.
3. Hook up water hose to ear muffs and attach to outdrive and make sure outdrive is lowered almost all the way down.
4. Turn on water at hose.
5. Start engine and let run for 30 minutes at ~ 1000 rpms.
6. Turn engine off.
7. Turn water off and remove ear muffs.
8. Remove motor plug, right side of engine near oil pan.
9. Poke thru with small screw driver to loosen up all cast and rust so the water flows out steady.
10. Remove the plug in the manifold, it is under the manifold ¾ of the way back towards the back of engine, poke it clear so the water comes out in a steady stream.
11. Remove the LARGE water hose in the front of the engine where it attaches to the thermostat housing.
12. Remove the incoming water hose and the small hose (that goes from the exhaust manifold to the thermostat housing) where they connect to the thermostat housing.
13. When the water has drained out of the block and the manifold reinstall the plugs. DO NOT over tighten them just good and snug.
14. Have 1 gallon of RV antifreeze ready, pour ¼ of it into the short hose and it will go directly into the exhaust manifold. Pour ¼ of it into the incoming water hose and make sure you hear it come out the outdrive!!! This back flushes the incoming water thru the power steering cooler if present and the transom assembly thru outdrive (you may have to raise the hose up several inches to allow the antifreeze to flow). Pour the rest into the LARGE hose that was removed from the thermostat housing, this goes straight into the motor.
15. Reinstall all the hoses and tighten the clamps.
16. Raise the outdrive to trailer position.
17. Unhook battery and you are done!!

This applies to most 4 cylinder mercruiser engines RAW WATER (not closed cooling systems)
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Daniel Hyams
Advanced Member
Username: dhyams

Post Number: 203
Registered: 11-2007
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Don't forget about our wiki Kghost:

http://marine-engines.wikia.com/wiki/Marine_Engines_and_Sterndrives

I'm posting this procedure in there specifically for 4 cyl folks.
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Bt Doctur
Senior Member
Username: bt_doctur

Post Number: 1119
Registered: 06-2006
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

delete
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Guy Gaspar
Senior Member
Username: guyjg

Post Number: 5150
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Kghost:

I agree w/all but #16; store w/OD down to prevent the bellows from taking a set in the up position.

I also perform the following:

Top off the fuel tank, fog the engine, change the oil and filter while hot, change fuel filters, drain and refill OD oil while hot, lube all the OD zerk fittings, lube the gimbal bearing, lube the engine coupler and power steering zerk fittings, disconnect batteries and connect trickle chargers or remove, charge and store in a cool dry place off the floor, gease the wheel bearings, open all hatches and storage bins, hang two anti-mold/mildew bags, install cover (allow for ventilation) and treat it w/Valspar waterproof solution (good product in gal. jug), put the trailer on blocks tilted slightly aft to allow drainage in the event of water infiltration and to get the weight off the tires, pull the transom drain plug, hope I didn't forget anything.
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michael knapp
Advanced Member
Username: draven620

Post Number: 135
Registered: 07-2007


Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks alot for the help I think I can handle doing it myself without taking it in thank you very much for saving me some time and moeny my cabelas income just doesnt stretch very far.I was also wondering though should i change the fuel/water seperater now or next spring.
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Tim Semenuk
Member
Username: evinrude_boater

Post Number: 14
Registered: 10-2007
Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Agreed Guy,
The list can keep going depending on the size of boat and equipment it has.
Clean the bottom and wash the boat, dry and wax.
Remove and drain the head, sanitize and dry.
Drain the water and holding tanks, pour RV anti-freeze into them including drain traps. Pump anti-freeze into taps
Remove all food and drink (don't want to attract animals)
Leave the ice box or fridge open to ventilate
Hang up life jackets and tow ropes to dry.
Clean and dry boat tops, treat if required, dry and store them.
Remove the stereo face plate and any other electronics that can be.
Remove batteries from clocks, flashlights etc.
Tape the boat plug to the key so you have to put it in the hole before you start it next season.
Pay your insurance and look forward to next season.
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PugetSounder
Advanced Member
Username: pugetsounder

Post Number: 458
Registered: 04-2007
Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I change anything that can possibly have water in it before the winter, if it can freeze it can do damage.
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michael knapp
Advanced Member
Username: draven620

Post Number: 136
Registered: 07-2007


Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

ok thanks.
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Mark
Member
Username: tuna_man

Post Number: 4
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

What is winterising?
Mark downunder.
heh heh...
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Guy Gaspar
Senior Member
Username: guyjg

Post Number: 5167
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 11:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

It's what boaters need to do when they live where there are not any poisonous snakes, reptiles, scorpions, spiders, etc. sleeping in your bed or shoes. That's the price they pay to avoid those critters. Sleep tight tonight; don't let the critters bite or sting you where it hurts the most.
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Mark
Member
Username: tuna_man

Post Number: 7
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Saturday, August 29, 2009 - 12:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

You forgot the salt water crocs and great white sharks, although I havent heard of a shark gettin someone out of their bed....crocs..now thats a different story... mark.
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michael knapp
Advanced Member
Username: draven620

Post Number: 137
Registered: 07-2007


Posted on Sunday, August 30, 2009 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

for a 1985 merc what oil do i use for the motor is 20 x 40 correct its a 3.0motor and i was going to get the prop redone is it hard to take off
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Kghost
Advanced Member
Username: kghost

Post Number: 889
Registered: 07-2008


Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 06:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

merc oil is 25w - 40w conventional motor oil.

so it is your choice.

Reccomendations from me would be,

1. Mobile One 15-50w fully synthetic.
2. Napa fully synthetic 20-50w
3. any quality motor oil as long as it is changed every 100 hrs or annualy.
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michael knapp
Advanced Member
Username: draven620

Post Number: 140
Registered: 07-2007


Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 01:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I bought rv/marine antifreeze today it says good to -50 but it also says it will slush up at -2 but is good for -50 so is this the right antifreze ths place i asked said it was the right stuff but i like to ask the experts.
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Kghost
Advanced Member
Username: kghost

Post Number: 923
Registered: 07-2008


Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 07:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Yes.........
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michael knapp
Advanced Member
Username: draven620

Post Number: 141
Registered: 07-2007


Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 09:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

thank you i do not know what i would so with out this site
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Guy Gaspar
Senior Member
Username: guyjg

Post Number: 5267
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

A pink -100 deg. F. AF is also made. Make sure all the water is out especially the engine recirc. pump hose; remove bottom to drain it. Reattach bottom hose and remove top hose to fill the block w/1/2 gal. AF; reattach hose. Remove each smaller hose from T'stat hsg. and pour a qt. of AF into each. OD should be down; pour AF into the raw water water hose until it comes out of the OD. Open all lower OD drain holes w/a wire or piece of heavy solder.
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chris
Member
Username: cody8543

Post Number: 20
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 11:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

thanks alot ya have been alot of help on getting my boat ready for winter if it wasn't for people like ya people like us would spend alot of money on things that the average person can do that owns a boat

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