| Author |
Message |
   
Debbi Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 04:14 pm: |
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I have a 93' Sea Ray with a 4.3L mercruiser stern drive and can't get it to fire. It will turn over and sounds great, just won't fire up. I changed the distributer cap, ignition sensor, & rotor. Plugs look fine. If I wiggle the shift interupt switch with a screwdriver while trying to start it, it then trys to fire, but still does not? HELP PLEASE! |
   
Rod Stewart
Senior Member Username: rod_stewart
Post Number: 1257 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 06:01 pm: |
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Make sure your throttle quadrant kill switch is in the "run" position. Pull the coil wire at the distributor and see if you have a nice fat spark when held close to a ground point while cranking. Be very careful; do it outside and make sure there are no gas vapors around. Use something long and insulated to hold the free end of the wire; not your hand! If there is a short in the interrupt switch or its wiring, there will be no spark. Or it could be other things like your coil or distributor. If the spark is fine, chances are good you have a dirty carb or fuel filters. Rod |
   
Debbi Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 10:15 am: |
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Thank you for your response. I am not getting spark from the coil. When I check wiring from the ignition module the purple and grey have power, but the wht/grn and wht/red don't. Those grn and red wires go to the ingition sensor. Should there be power? Also, I replaced the coil yesterday, but still no spark? However, when we are trying to start it and we use a screwdriver and wiggle the interupt switch, it sounds like it wants to start? Hgh! This is so frustrating! Last week, when we started this process, it did start for a brief moment, but then cut out - never to start since. My husbands vote it sell the boat, but I say NEVER!! LOL |
   
Rod Stewart
Senior Member Username: rod_stewart
Post Number: 1265 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 11:55 am: |
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Did you check the interrupt switch for shorting or continuity? I would do that next. Rod |
   
Debbi Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 03:50 pm: |
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Thanks Rod, How do I check it? |
   
Bt Doctur
Advanced Member Username: bt_doctur
Post Number: 277 Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 04:33 pm: |
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remove the green/white wire going to the switch from the dist lug. |
   
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member Username: guyjg
Post Number: 1998 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 06:36 pm: |
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Tests for Thunderbolt Ignition: W/ignition key on AND BILGE WELL VENTILATED OF GAS FUMES!!! #1 - Connect your voltmeter neg. lead to the engine ground and pos. lead to the white/red wire terminal at the dist. It should read 12 volts. #2 - If 12 volts is present, remove the coil spark wire from the distributor and connect it to a spark gap tester to ground. Remove the white/green lead from the dist. terminal. Turn the ign. key to on and strike the white/green lead to ground. If there is spark, replace the ignition sensor in the dist. #3 - If there is no spark, substitute a new coil and repeat test #2. Now if you get spark, install a new coil. NO SPARK, replace ign. amp. #4 - In #2, if there is No voltage present, disconnect the white/red wire and check it again for 12 volts. If 12 volts is present, replace the ignition sensor inside the dist. cap. If no 12 volts present w/it disconnected--ignition amplifier is shot and must be replaced. |
   
Debbi Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 08:31 pm: |
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Thanks for the help, we truely and honestly appreciate it. What steps should we take if as you suggested in step #1, there is not 12 volts? |
   
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member Username: guyjg
Post Number: 1999 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2008 - 06:50 pm: |
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Debbi: If the ignition key was on in step 1 and you found "0" volts, then check for 12 volts at the purple wire on the coil. It supplies 12 volts to the ign. module. If there is 12 volts at the coil purple wire, then I would say the ignition module is dead. Let us know. |
   
Bondo
Advanced Member Username: bondo
Post Number: 995 Registered: 12-2006

| | Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 08:23 am: |
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Guy,....This is a Double Post,... She claims the Issue has been resolved..... |
   
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member Username: guyjg
Post Number: 2001 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 09:15 am: |
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Bondo: So what was the solution? R&R the barrell plug? |
   
Bondo
Senior Member Username: bondo
Post Number: 1005 Registered: 12-2006

| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 10:25 am: |
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"Bondo: So what was the solution? R&R the barrell plug?" Ayuh,.... Or so she Says...... Personally,.... I think it's the Lower Shift cable.... And, I said so in her Other threads,.... Both here,+ the 1 at iboats.... |
   
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member Username: guyjg
Post Number: 2005 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 04:24 pm: |
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We'll find out soon if it is the LS cable. |
   
SPR Motorsports
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, May 24, 2008 - 04:27 pm: |
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94 4.3 mercruiser,at time no crank,soloniods clicks,need to jump purple/yellow to yellow/red on starter then will crank,start then dies off crank(fuel shuts off),fuel pump won't run unless in crank mode,jumped oil psi cut switch now boats starts and will run for 20 secs then ignition ckt breaker pops.another shop had removed engine and we got the parts in a box with a customer used purchased long block.Any help would be great.thanks,Steve 218-568-4853 |
   
Rod Stewart
Senior Member Username: rod_stewart
Post Number: 1365 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, May 24, 2008 - 10:11 pm: |
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SPR; You should start your own topic for better response. Rod |