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| 1993 Bayliner 4.3L V6 will turn over,... |
| Author |
Message |
   
Stephen W. Rogerson
New member Username: maineiacinga
Post Number: 1 Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 06:16 pm: |
|
My boat has always started fine. The other day I was doing some maintenance where I had to move the trim motor. When I went to take off the positive lead, it sparked pretty good. (I know you're supposed to disconnect the battery but I guess I learned the hard way) Now it will turn over but will not fire. I am getting gas so it must be electrical. I jumpered the kill switch just in case and I am getting 12 VDC to the (+) terminal of the coil. Where do I go from here? |
   
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member Username: guyjg
Post Number: 1965 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 08:52 pm: |
|
Assuming that it was runing fine until you ZAPPED it, is the coil producing a good spark? If not, try the test procedures below. Tests for Thunderbolt Ignition: W/ignition key on AND BILGE WELL VENTILATED OF GAS FUMES!!! #1 - Connect your voltmeter neg. lead to the engine ground and pos. lead to the white/red wire terminal at the dist. It should read 12 volts. #2 - If 12 volts is present, remove the coil spark wire from the distributor and connect it to a spark gap tester to ground. Remove the white/green lead from the dist. terminal. Turn the ign. key to on and strike the white/green lead to ground. If there is spark, replace the ignition sensor in the dist. #3 - If there is no spark, substitute a new coil and repeat test #2. Now if you get spark, install a new coil. NO SPARK, replace ign. amp. #4 - In #2, if there is No voltage present, disconnect the white/red wire and check it again for 12 volts. If 12 volts is present, replace the ignition sensor inside the dist. cap. If no 12 volts present w/it disconnected--ignition amplifier is shot and must be replaced. |
   
Stephen W. Rogerson
New member Username: maineiacinga
Post Number: 2 Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 09:29 pm: |
|
Thanks for the tip, Guy. I'll give it a try... |
   
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member Username: guyjg
Post Number: 1967 Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 09:21 am: |
|
My pleasure! Excuse my ZAPPED insult; I couldn't resist it since I have done that more times than I can remember beginning in 1969 w/the U.S.Army HAWK radar/missile work up to the other day working on my house wiring. I tend to work on live electrical things. I still jump a mile when I get ZAPPED.  |
   
Stephen W. Rogerson
New member Username: maineiacinga
Post Number: 3 Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 11:45 am: |
|
I got to step #2 with 12 volts present at the coil, but didn't have a spark gap tester. I do have a multimeter, so I tested the coil using this: http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coil-test-ohm.htmThe secondary winding reads open so I ordered a new coil. It should be here today or tomorrow. I hope that is all I fried... |
   
Stephen W. Rogerson
Member Username: maineiacinga
Post Number: 4 Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 08:33 pm: |
|
Well, the new coil read the same as the old one so I reread the steps. I had misread the steps and should have skipped to step #4. Long story short, it was a bad ignition sensor in the distributor. Once again, thanks for the advice. |
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