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1993 Bayliner 4.3L V6 will turn over,...

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Mercruiser Sterndrive » Archive through May 18, 2008 » 1993 Bayliner 4.3L V6 will turn over, won't start « Previous Next »

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Stephen W. Rogerson
New member
Username: maineiacinga

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

My boat has always started fine. The other day I was doing some maintenance where I had to move the trim motor. When I went to take off the positive lead, it sparked pretty good. (I know you're supposed to disconnect the battery but I guess I learned the hard way) Now it will turn over but will not fire. I am getting gas so it must be electrical. I jumpered the kill switch just in case and I am getting 12 VDC to the (+) terminal of the coil. Where do I go from here?
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Guy Gaspar
Senior Member
Username: guyjg

Post Number: 1965
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Assuming that it was runing fine until you ZAPPED it, is the coil producing a good spark? If not, try the test procedures below.

Tests for Thunderbolt Ignition:

W/ignition key on AND BILGE WELL VENTILATED OF GAS FUMES!!!

#1 - Connect your voltmeter neg. lead to the engine ground and pos. lead to the white/red wire terminal at the dist. It should read 12 volts.

#2 - If 12 volts is present, remove the coil spark wire from the distributor and connect it to a spark gap tester to ground. Remove the white/green lead from the dist. terminal. Turn the ign. key to on and strike the white/green lead to ground. If there is spark, replace the ignition sensor in the dist.

#3 - If there is no spark, substitute a new coil and repeat test #2. Now if you get spark, install a new coil. NO SPARK, replace ign. amp.

#4 - In #2, if there is No voltage present, disconnect the white/red wire and check it again for 12 volts. If 12 volts is present, replace the ignition sensor inside the dist. cap. If no 12 volts present w/it disconnected--ignition amplifier is shot and must be replaced.
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Stephen W. Rogerson
New member
Username: maineiacinga

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks for the tip, Guy. I'll give it a try...
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Guy Gaspar
Senior Member
Username: guyjg

Post Number: 1967
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 09:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

My pleasure! Excuse my ZAPPED insult; I couldn't resist it since I have done that more times than I can remember beginning in 1969 w/the U.S.Army HAWK radar/missile work up to the other day working on my house wiring. I tend to work on live electrical things. I still jump a mile when I get ZAPPED.
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Stephen W. Rogerson
New member
Username: maineiacinga

Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I got to step #2 with 12 volts present at the coil, but didn't have a spark gap tester. I do have a multimeter, so I tested the coil using this: http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coil-test-ohm.htmThe secondary winding reads open so I ordered a new coil. It should be here today or tomorrow. I hope that is all I fried...
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Stephen W. Rogerson
Member
Username: maineiacinga

Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 08:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Well, the new coil read the same as the old one so I reread the steps. I had misread the steps and should have skipped to step #4. Long story short, it was a bad ignition sensor in the distributor. Once again, thanks for the advice.

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