| Author |
Message |
    
Bob Williams
New member
Username: bobandia
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 08:31 am: | 
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I have a 2001 Alpha One 3.0 that is running rough. It is very hard to start and will not idle. I would expect that it is a fuel problem with a filter or the carb. Where can I find the best price on a rebuild kit if it is the carb and instructions on how to do it. My Sea Ray dealer wants at least $350 to rebuild it. I saw a place online that would do it for about $179. I feel I could rebuild it my self with instruction, but would it be better to send it away?
Bob |
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member
Username: guyjg
Post Number: 1807
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 09:40 am: |
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Bob:
Go thru the basic tuneup first; plugs, ALL fuel filters, clean the carb throat & shaft bushings--lube the bushings and linkages w/a light oil, check the choke (if equip.) for proper operation.
If it has a dist. look under the cap; may need a new rotor and cap--maybe even wires. Put a pint of SEAFOAM in the fuel tank.
If it still won't run, DISCONNECT THE BATTERIES AND CAREFULLY remove the top of the carb and look in the bowl for water and crud and check the float drop. If it is full of dirt click on "engine parts" above and get a carb kit w/a float; it's an easy job but use the float setting specs. from a service manual. Use a digital camera as you disassemble the carb for reference.
Let us know what you find. |
Bob Williams
New member
Username: bobandia
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 11:33 am: |
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Thanks for the input. This engine only has about 150 hours on it. But, it is also 6 years old or so. Would that make a difference in how I proceed? |
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member
Username: guyjg
Post Number: 1808
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 01:01 pm: |
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No; basics first. If it has never seen a wrench in all that time I'd say it needs plugs and filts, etc. as stated. |
joe alongi
Member
Username: srdancer90
Post Number: 18
Registered: 02-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 01:44 pm: |
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A word of caution, rebuilding a carb is NOT EASY, Have a carb rebuilder do it for you. I tried it on a rochecter quadra jet and ended up sending it to a carb tech for a $185 rebuild. Also there are several carb rebuilders on the web. After saying this I would agree with the other responces, new plugs wires, cap rotor. |
Jeff Waters
Member
Username: scarab_excell
Post Number: 29
Registered: 10-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2008 - 05:08 pm: |
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check and see if the choke is stuck closed |
Bob Williams
New member
Username: bobandia
Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, April 03, 2008 - 12:00 pm: |
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Thanks to all of you. I will let you know how it turns out. |
Bob Williams
Member
Username: bobandia
Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 14, 2008 - 11:41 pm: |
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Well I changed the plugs and treated the fuel and filled the tank. I put it back in the water and it still seems starved for fuel. I can't keep it running. The fuel pump is located on the bottom of the engine on the left side and has a clamp on each side. I can't figure out how to get it apart. I have the filter kit from the dealer. Any input? |
David R Cole
Member
Username: david_ray
Post Number: 33
Registered: 02-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 01:36 am: |
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Did you get the carb rebuilt?
If you have not yet worked on the carb, at least make sure it is mounted tight with no air leaks about the base. And spray the choke mechanism (if exist) with carb cleaner to be sure it is operating freely.
Have you cleaned the inside of the distributor cap, or replaced the cap if any doubts about its condition? Distributor caps are hard to visually inspect for perfection, but replacement often proves to be the right option. |
Peter Chamberlain
Advanced Member
Username: ratmower
Post Number: 565
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 08:26 am: |
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Hey Joe
Rochester Quadrajets are fun arn't they.
Cheers
Peter C |
chris
Member
Username: terrapin24h
Post Number: 16
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 09:50 am: |
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Bob--
not to nit pick, but you say yo0u changed plugs and treated the fuel, but did you do the fuel filters? Also, IIRC from my seloc manual, there is a sight window for the fuel pump on the 3.0. If you see fuel in it you need to replace. I also agree with the cap and rotor comments. My boat was cranky to start cold(but good otherwise) and as soon as i changed the water sep fuel filter it got alot better. |
Bob Williams
Member
Username: bobandia
Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 10:29 pm: |
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To all. I have the fuel filter kit from the dealer, but can't figure out how to get the filter apart. It is hard to see because of the location. It looks like there is a nut on the bottom from the picture. I will try to work on it in the morning when it is light but figured I would ask the pros as a backup. I wanted to see if it just needed a filter before I got into the carb. I bought the Clymer manual($35.00) from the boat store, but it only shows a pictue of the pump and tells how to remove it. I assume the filter goes inside the pump.....?
Bob
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David R Cole
Member
Username: david_ray
Post Number: 35
Registered: 02-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 11:36 pm: |
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You cut or unwind, then remove, the safety wire from the tightening screw at the bottom of the unit. Loosen the screw to relief tension on the clip. The clip usually lift up in the slots to remove. The filter cup (bowl) on the bottom then usually is just pulled off (pull downward in this case). The filter media is within the bowl. Pull the flter media out and replace with the new. I have seen a few that have a screw mount and yours could need to twist to remove.
Wipe any sediment from the bowl and all misc dirt you see from the area. There is usually a gasket or o-ring around the perimeter of the cup that serves as a seal. Before replacing the bowl make sure the gasket sealing surface (and possible groove) is clean.
Place a little heavy grease on the gasket/o-ring to hold it in place and improve seal, then put bowl and retaining clip back in place. Snug the tension screw down, and replace the safety wire. |
Bob Williams
Member
Username: bobandia
Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 02:07 pm: |
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Found the wire and removed. Does it need to be placed back and if so how do you find the hole? Unscrewed and was able to get the bowl off. It had some rust colored sludge inside. (evidance of water?) Replaced gaskets, spring and filter and finally got it back on with out leaking! I had filled the tank and added the right amount of stabilizer. After about 20 minutes I was able to get it running long enough to get it in gear and after a few minutes it seemed to smooth out. I expect it will take a little to get any water that is in there out of the fuel. I could hear a air sound coming from the carb area and the flame arrestor. The arrestor has an oily substance on the outside of the rings.
Also, there is a hesitation when first accelerating. I had that before also. No smooth transition from slow to fast speed. Seems to run fine at higher speeds.
Any input? |
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member
Username: guyjg
Post Number: 1868
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 01:03 pm: |
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"rust colored sludge inside" That is called varnish left over from old evaporated fuel. Check the nipple on the pump that the clear hose attaches to; it may be plugged with the sludge--mine was. Used a pipe cleaner and carb spray to open it up. |
Peter Chamberlain
Advanced Member
Username: ratmower
Post Number: 569
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 05:31 pm: |
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Usefull information for the Novice repairer.
One of the problems with Varnish build up in carburettors is that it can reduce the orifice size of jets and air bleeds causing your beloved engine to run like a dog.
You can use multistrand copper automtive wire to clean out the brass jets and air bleeds by twisting individual strands together till you get a size that will move firmly through the jet.
Using that like a jet drill with some carby cleaner will get rid of the varnish and return the jet to its correct size without damaging the jet.
DO NOT use steel wire of any type or you can damage the jet.
Cheers
Peter C |
susan brach
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 08:43 pm: |
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65' Houseboat engines slow to start had new carbraters put on and both 3.0L mercruiser engines started great...first time out 15 minutes from marina threw a rod...could the repair folks that replaced carbs have forgotten something that would have caused this...engine is approx 2001 ---290 hours!! |
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member
Username: guyjg
Post Number: 2017
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 12:02 am: |
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Susan: start a new post so more will see your problem. |
Bob Williams
Member
Username: bobandia
Post Number: 9
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 11:37 am: |
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Ok. Another new fuel filter. Had the carb rebuilt. New plugs. The local marine that rebuilt the carb said to put on a water separating filter. I went to the marine supply store and they gave me the Moeller 33323/10 kit. I installed that. No fuel leaks anywhere. Took a few minutes to get started then idled fairly well. Took off slowly for a few minutes until warm. When I accelarate, the hesitation is gone, but.... now it cuts off when I open it up. I checked with Moeller. They could not help, but the web site says don't use with electric fuel pump with inline filters.
Help! Family coming on Saturday for two weeks.
bob
URL for below. http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarket/fuel_systems/fuel_filters/
Long Water Separating Fuel Filter Mercury/ Universal style
Replace filter every 50 hours.
Trap the smallest particles and emulsified water from gasoline.
Filtration media will not separate two-cycle oil from gasoline.
Water separating canisters ensure no other contaminates or rust will contribute to a blocked fuel system.
Designed for Mercury, BRP (Johnson & Evinrude), Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda, Tohatsu and Nissan engines. Universal application as well.
High performance 3/8 NPT ports offer lower pressure drop rates.
Stainless steel, powder-coated, and composite filter head offer extreme salt-water corrosion resistance.
Filter kits come available in consumer package clamshell with barbs.
Not recommended for use with diesel engines or with electric fuel pumps using in-line fuel filters.
BONUS PACK AVAILABLE: Includes 2 filters and 1 composite filter head.
.
Product # 033323-10 |
Guy Gaspar
Senior Member
Username: guyjg
Post Number: 2365
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 11:57 am: |
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Take it back to the carb rebuilder; may need accelerator pump (if adjustable) adjusted for longer stroke. |
