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2003 NSF9.9A Nissan shuts down at hig...

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Nissan Tohatsu Outboard » 2003 NSF9.9A Nissan shuts down at high speeds « Previous Next »

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Timothy Egan
New member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hey guys and gals, got a 9.9 horse nissan that runs great while going slow in the marina but when I try to get it up to speed on the lake it quits after about 10 seconds. The primer bulb seems to lose its firmness no matter the speed but only quits when trying to go faster than no wake speeds. Changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, plugs (which were original to the motor and pretty black), running clean gas, etc... Would you start at the fuel pump or let me guess clean the carb? Thanks
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Tohatsu Guru
Advanced Member
Username: tohatsu_guru

Post Number: 809
Registered: 06-2007


Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 10:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

In this case the prime bulb is telling you something. If it is going soft, theory tells you that the problem is between the fuel pump and fuel tank:

Bad bulb
Bad gas line
Bad fuel connector
Bad fuel pump

IE. You are sucking air into the line.

That's theory....It's probably going to be the carb though :-)
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Timothy Egan
New member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

not saying that this wouldn't be the problem but the tank, line, bulb, and connectors are all brand spankin new. the pump is original to the motor. at what connection point would I be sucking air... after the bulb most likely or before it? or would it go soft either way? also, is teflon tape necessary on the connectors? my "west marine" guy told me it was a good idea.
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Tohatsu Guru
Advanced Member
Username: tohatsu_guru

Post Number: 810
Registered: 06-2007


Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 - 12:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

New only means new, it doesn't mean not bad. There is a one way valve in the bulb that can be bad, any pin hole, loose connection point or a bad fuel pump diaphragm. If the bulb is 100% perfect the problem would lie between the bulb and the carb....Again, that's theory. Reality has a habit of not fitting theoretical models. Teflon tape is unnecessary 999 out of 1000 times, but it doesn't hurt a thing to use it.
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Timothy Egan
New member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Tried a completely different tank, hose, and bulb with the same results. Weak bulb after a minute or so of cruising. Changing out the fuel pump today.
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Timothy Egan
Member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Worked fine for a day with new fuel pump... Then nothing. Wouldn't even start. Took the carb off but am not sure what gets cleaned and what to take off. All rubber parts I removed but not sure about the float or any other small parts. Anyone got a suggestion? Any carb cleaner better than the other.
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Timothy Egan
Member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 5
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Also the carb doesn't appear to be dirty unless there's something I'm not seeing.
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Tohatsu Guru
Advanced Member
Username: tohatsu_guru

Post Number: 816
Registered: 06-2007


Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 08:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

"Worked fine for a day with new fuel pump"

Clean the carb in any one gallon can of carburetor cleaner. The float is plastic so you would not put it in carb cleaner.

Your symptoms, what you have done to correct it, and what the results have been, don't add up. That happens all the time. Unfortunately outboard repair is only 50% what makes sense. The other 50% is guess work and experience and blind luck, so I would suggest you start over again. Take a hard look at the fuel line and its connection points as well as the fuel itself.
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Timothy Egan
Member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 6
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Ok, cleaned the caen for about 6 hours Sunday. Today, started right up but didn't have time to run it under load at high speeds. So the next question is... I ran the fuel out before leaving it at the dock and I noticed that the in line fuel filter is still full of fuel after the engine shuts down. Is it supposed to be? And also the new bulb on the gas line didn't stay hard while I ran it.it was firm but not hard and I could squeeze it every couple of minutes to get it full again. Is that normal?
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Tohatsu Guru
Advanced Member
Username: tohatsu_guru

Post Number: 820
Registered: 06-2007


Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Yes on the first one and the second is a yes/no/maybe. Some bulbs stay rock hard, some get fairly soft, but the majority seem to settle in at a firmness level that I would describe as unripened banana
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Timothy Egan
Member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 8
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 05:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

ok, I am really close to selling this thing while I can still tank test it. Back to square one. Bulb goes limp while running in gear and I have to keep pumping it to kep it firm but I am afraid I am flooding the engine.?. Engine shuts down under load about 10-15 seconds after acceleration. Won't start for about ten minutes after while floating and cursing on the lake about how Nissan sucks. Cleaned the carb AGAIN and got the same result. Once it dried and I got it restarted and while it was running at idle speed I pulled each one of the plugs off of the engine just to see what would happen. The top plug after I pulled it off made the engine run a little different not much but a noticeable difference. As for the bottom plug...once I pulled it out the engine ran for 3-5 seconds then shut down. tried it again and again with the same results. Not sure if that means anything. I am almost out of options other than sell it off to make it someone elses problem. I would rather be boating than wrenching.
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Tohatsu Guru
Advanced Member
Username: tohatsu_guru

Post Number: 827
Registered: 06-2007


Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I think you have reached the end of what your ability allows you to do. It's time to take it into a dealer and let them determine what is wrong.
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Timothy Egan
Member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 9
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Is it normal for the engine to quit with that bottom plug removed?
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Tohatsu Guru
Advanced Member
Username: tohatsu_guru

Post Number: 829
Registered: 06-2007


Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 11:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Nope. That means that the bottom cylinder is the only one that is working. At this point you need a service manual to get the test procedures for the ignition system to eliminate that system as the source of the problem....Or, take it into a dealer. I would urge you to do the latter as I think we have reached the limit of what a novice can do in a cost effective manner.
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Timothy Egan
Member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 10
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 08:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

would this have any correlation to the primer bulb not staying full?
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Tohatsu Guru
Advanced Member
Username: tohatsu_guru

Post Number: 832
Registered: 06-2007


Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 08:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

It shouldn't, but as I stated previously.

"outboard repair is only 50% what makes sense"
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Steve Somerville
Member
Username: somers12

Post Number: 20
Registered: 07-2008
Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 12:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Don't know if this will help in your situation, but, I cleaned the carb on my 9.9 a dozen times, and still had shut down problems. What worked, and I don't see mentioned here is: after soaking in carb cleaner for 10 minutes to soften grime, I poked every hole (some are very small) I could see with a wire (small 4" piece of guitar string works),continued to soak, then blew it out with an air compressor. This, after I threatened to throw the motor overboard, or use it as an anchor.Now, I wouldn't part with the heavy sucker. Hope this helps somebody.

Steve
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roly
New member
Username: nissan003

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 06:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

the electric choke is stuck closed, that is why it stalls when given
gas, my 15 hp is doing the same thing. I can see that the choke
is closed but I do not want to force it open until I find out how
so I don't damage it'
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Timothy Egan
Member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 17
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

what does the electric choke look like? and/or where is it?
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roly
New member
Username: nissan003

Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

tim, taking off the cover of the motor you will see the carb. if like
mine you will see wire going to the top of the carb. To look
at the choke you must take apart the plastic intake of the carb.
then you can look at the flapper on the intake of the carb.if it
is closed or mostly closed that is your problem.
and right now I am trying to find out how to open the chock with
out hurting anything.
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Timothy Egan
Member
Username: teeitup007

Post Number: 18
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

is that the circular brass piece that has a silver bar through it to regulate the amount of air going into the engine? If so mine moves freely. I have taken my carb off before and the plastic inntake attached to the carb is just that... a plastic piece that has a screen on it. Not sure if yours has something else associated with the plastic air intake.
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Tohatsu Guru
Advanced Member
Username: tohatsu_guru

Post Number: 855
Registered: 06-2007


Posted on Thursday, July 30, 2009 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The choke operates via the auto-by-pass sender located on the top of the carb...It wouldn't have anything to do with an engine running on one cylinder.
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roly
New member
Username: nissan003

Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Friday, August 07, 2009 - 04:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

When I went back up to our cabin I took the carb abart and looked
at where the choke should be and saw that it was injection, but it
back together. I tapped on the bottom of the carb like I had done
several times before, and the engine started running normal at
high speeds.
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roly
Member
Username: nissan003

Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

My motor started not running at full throttle again, I took off the carb
took off the float cover, I saw that a rubber plug was hanging
loose, then it dropped off. I tightly put it back in the port hole
it came out of, put carb back on. And it now runs perfectly.
Why would Nissan put a rubber plug in a chamber where gasoline
exists. I hope this will help solve other peoples problems. Roly
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Tohatsu Guru
Advanced Member
Username: tohatsu_guru

Post Number: 923
Registered: 06-2007


Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 02:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

They have done for it over 30 years without a problem. I can't think of any case, other than yours, where the plug was improperly put in and then came back out.
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jody ray
Member
Username: hd4ou

Post Number: 10
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Saturday, September 05, 2009 - 09:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Dont know if this will help or even if it applies but, my 25 hp nissan was doing something similar to this and what i found was the plastic intake air ram (not sure of term) where it bolts to the carb had broken around the bolt hole and a piece of the plastic was sticking into the throat and catching the choke butterfly and not letting it open. bought a new one and the new one was cracked and starting to warp also. returned it and got another one that was fine and that fixed that problem.

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