No one will give up a service manual

Author Message   harpoon New member Username: harpoon Post Number: 2 Registered: 08-2007 Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2007 - 03:39 pm:    I spoke to my local nissan dealer, and asked for a paper manual. They said that there is none available for the general public. I have read on here that others are asking for advice about the impellar replacement. Would you please stop suggesting getting a manual, and just answer the question? thank you   harpoon Member Username: harpoon Post Number: 4 Registered: 08-2007 Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2007 - 08:54 pm:    Well, I still have not been able to communicate with someone that can help me. I have searched the web-site, and there is nothing availabel for a 2004 Nissan 18H.P. 4 Stroke. And eveyone says go to the dealer. They will not part with a manual. Any other ideas? I have taken off the 4 bolts on the bottom of the flange that holds on the lower unit, but it drops about 3/4 of an inch and stops. There is an 8 mm. nut there and I took it off. It seems to hold some sort of round piece of plastic that the linkange runs through. I dont know what to do next. There has got to be some sort of on-line pictorial or something somewhere. I am open for suggestions.   Tohatsu Guru Member Username: tohatsu_guru Post Number: 52 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2007 - 09:14 pm:    Here's a suggestion. Get a service manual. They are available from any Nissan or Tohatsu dealer and they are sold to the public every day. Here is a direct link to the Tohatsu website page that even tells you where you can get them online if that idiot dealer of yours does not want to sell you one. http://www.tohatsu.com/tech_info/faqs.html#Q2 The problem with telling you what you want to know is that, while the process is simple, it requires a feel for what you are doing. You have obviously not done it before and I do not want to be the one responsible for getting you in over your head. Get a manual and then if you run into trouble I will be happy to guide you through it.   harpoon Member Username: harpoon Post Number: 5 Registered: 08-2007 Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2007 - 09:59 am:    Guru, Thank you for your reply. I am mechanically inclinded, and did figure it out. Its just that the on line manuals stop at 2000. I keep reading "ask your local dealer" and of course they said that there is none out. For those of you who are trying to do the same thing: MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS IN NEUTRAL AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY IF IT IS ELECTRIC START. 1) pull the prop- remove the cotter pin, and back out the castelated nut and washer. At this point you just pull on the prop. If the prop does not want to budge, simple taps (not hard) will loosten any materials (gunk) and do this repeadedly if you are not successful at first. Patience is the key. Never ever force anything. You would be amazed and what a few taps and some patience will yield. I always use a penetrating oil or wd-40. When you tap what ever it is that you are trying to remove, is helps the penetrating oil to work its way into the parts that you are trying to release. 2) remove the two nuts that are holding in the plate that is holding the shaft. 2)Next remove the bronze bearing behing the prop. It should come out very easily. It has splines on it and you should see a fair amount of grease on it. 3) I pulled out the shaft next. DO NOT USE TOOLS ON THE SPLINES. THE SPLINES (GROOVES ALONG THE SHAFT) MUST NOT GET MARRED UP. The shaft will come out fairly easily as well. Just jiggle it back and forth. Some times you will have to rotate it a hair to get the gear load off of it. 4) Loosten the 4 bolts that hold the lower unit to the upper unit housing. This is where I ran into trouble. The bolts came off, but the lower unit would not come off. It dropped about 3/4 of an inch, then stopped. You will see two rods extending down from the upper unit. The forward one (shift shaft) is smaller, and the aft one was the drive shaft. The drive shaft is attached to the lower unit, and the shifter (forward one) is attached to the upper unit. Around the forward (shift shaft or linkage) is a round white disc. You have to take an 8 mm open end wrench and loosten it, and rotate the little dog ear (retainer piece) that holds the white round plastic piece in place. This is when I used wd-40 and shot the plastic piece and tapped on the fins of the lower unit. I said TAPPED, nothing more. I could not get the lower unit off. I went away for the night and tried to get information (to no avail) The next day, I came back and tried it again. It seperated very easily. The power of wd-40 and patience. 5) You will see a white housing with 4 nuts on the lower unit. That is the water pump housing. Remove the 4 nuts, and pull the housing up and over the drive shaft. Now if you flip it over, you will see the impeller. Take note of the direction of the impeller blade. On mine the impeller blades were bent counter clockwise. When you put the new impeller in you will have to bend the blades of the impeller the same way for it to fit into the housing. Next you will have to remove the stainless (supposedly) cup that is in the housing. This is also a practice in patience. Lube it up well with penetrating oil. You will see two little hole in it. I used the two holes for the oil to get into. I tapped the housing a bunch of times to get the oil between the cup and the housing. If you look closely, and flip the housing over (you will no longer be looking at the impeller) there is a little notch where you use some sort of a tool to pry out the cup from the housing. I used a very small file with the end bent over to grab that cup and pull it out. Again it was an excecise in patience. You definately do not want to crack the housing the cup is in. It will come out if you keep at it. Just walk away, if you are getting impatient. You will also replace the metal gasket that sits on the bottom of the housing. Do everything in reverse. Dont forget to replace the little retaining clip that holds the white round thing that fits into the lower unit as you put the two together again. The problem I ran into next was getting the lower unit back up and fit snuggly to the upper unit. I found that if I pulled the pull start chord just a hair, it would line everthing up and the lower unit would sit snuggly back up to the upper unit. I hope this helps, just e-mail me and I will walk you throug it if you run into problems.   Tohatsu Guru Member Username: tohatsu_guru Post Number: 53 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2007 - 01:22 pm:    Factory service manuals are not available as an online download as that would be a copyright infringement. They are only available from an authorized dealer locally or they can be ordered at the link I posted earlier. Illegal copies of down-loadable aftermarket manuals abound, however they are usually weak and may not apply to many current models. Steps one through three have nothing to do with putting in a water pump kit and I'm not sure why you did them. Step four is only correct to the point where the four bolts where removed. At the point a service manual would have helped as you took a wrong turn and made a very simple job into a disaster. The shift rod disconnects from the coupler and does not involve removal of the lower shift rod assembly from the gear-case. Step five is essentially correct. Moral of this story: The purchase of a service manual would have saved a great deal of time and avoided dis-assembly of components that did not involve the water pump. So the lesson to be learned here is not to play mechanic unless you have a manual that you can use as a guide. PS I know the above comes across as being a little harsh, however there are not to many ways to say "Big Mistake" without sounding overbearing. It is not my intention to lecture...Only to educate.   Sebastian Frank Visitor Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 10:05 pm:    Hi Everybody, I am trying to convert a 2008 18 HP 4 stroke Tohatsu engine (brand new and never started with the tiller control) from a tiller electric start to a remote or pleasure remote control (EP type). I bought the kit from the same dealer that I bought the engine from. I have everything hooked up and working except the oil pressure light. It won't go off while running. The engine oil is 10W-40 and has all of the approval stamps. The service manual and owners manual shows the light green wire converging into a yellow wire, but I don't know how that is done. Do you cut and splice with a wire connector of some kind? Also there is a short length of yellow wire supplied with the kit that is spliced to a short length of black wire that goes to the ground bolt on the starboard side of the engine just below the oil pressure light switch. Any thought would be very appreciated. Best regards, Sebastian   Tohatsu Guru Member Username: tohatsu_guru Post Number: 54 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 10:10 pm:    Contact Tohatsu at 972-323-6003 and ask for Vic.

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