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| Author |
Message |
    
Jack S.
New member
Username: joewetbike
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 04:04 pm: | 
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This is the 3rd time I have tried to post this question in the last 24 hours and for some reason it won't post, so here we go again. I have a 1988 DT65. I believe the crank bearing on #2 cyl. came apart on me. The spark plug in #2 cyl. is smashed and the motor is rattling. I am currently looking for a new/used motor/powerhead, but I can't seem to find anyone who can tell me what OTHER Suzuki models and years will fit my '88. Example: I found a 1993 DT65 complete, with no foot. Will my 1988 foot bolt up to it? Also, I am curious about all the other parts as well, carbs, starter, stator, oil injection, etc, etc. Any and all info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 4091
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 06:51 pm: |
|
ask brownspoint |
Steve Palmerton
New member
Username: nukerman
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 09:07 am: |
|
I have a DT55 which I believe is the same block just the bore size is different I THINK. If this is the case, I have a used power head I would sell you... Email me at spalmerton@charter.net |
Brence Armstrong
New member
Username: brence51
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, May 24, 2008 - 09:49 am: |
|
Second crank bearing on DT 55/65 are known for this. Go to KoyoUsa.com and check out the schematics for their bearings. The middle two crank bearings are part # 6306 open ball bearings. The outer race needs a clearance of
1.1 mm when mounted inside crankcase. You will notice when your block is apart that there are two C-rings located on top two bearing grooves in crank case. One C-ring for the second crank bearing and one C-ring for the top main bearing. Each C-ring to be placed in block side C-ring groove. However, when you are on Koyo's website check part # 6207 (which is the bottom ball bearing)it also needs 1.1 mm outer race clearance as well. Look at your bottom bearing and there is no C-ring groove on the bearing or inside crankcase because the crankcase is holding the outer race stationary and so is the pressed in pin on the bearing when assembled. Your third crank bearing (same as second) has a C-ring groove and so does the crank case. This groove is for the oil seal only and the outer bearing race again is being held stationary by block and pressed in pin. Now, this is where the problem begins. Both the bottom bearing and third from bottom bearing need 1.1 mm outer race clearance but are being stationary due to case and pin. The first and second crank bearings are mounted with only one C-ring per bearing yet there are C-ring grooves on both block and intake side. This allows movement of the crankshaft and causes bearing fretting which look like scratch marks. A complete ring around the bearing is needed or at least two
C-rings will do. This will hold the bearings outer race in place as well as the bearing pin and cut down on the axial force/play within the bearing so that your crank rides true. Radial force is what kills these bearings because the taller the crank the bigger the thrust and radial loads. That is why you will notice a cylindrical roller bearing as the first main bearing and the rest are ball bearings. Without a complete ring around the bearing and those forces getting bigger each time one accelerates the second bearing vibrates and the radial force is handled by the top cylindrical bearing yet bottle necking the second bearing and finally causing failure. The second and third crank bearing are now greased filled and sealed for contamination protection, but still a complete ring or two C-rings are needed for top two bearings. Hope this helps. |
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