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Message |
    
Vincent Portera
New member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 11:01 pm: | 
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DT150 starts ok, but idles a little rough. After warm up, I bury the throttle and she runs great. After a couple of minutes she suddenly looses rpms and just quits. When trying to restart, motor just does nothing maybe a click or clunk but no turnover. Trim and tilt work good, so battery is ok. Wait a few minutes and she turns over again and finally starts. Get it on plane again and after a minute or two does the same thing. Now can hardly keep it running. Could this be the oil sensor? I took the oil tank off and cleaned it last time out because oil was not flowing and engine was idleing down. Motor had not run in a couple of years (damaged from Katrina). |
V Portera
New member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 02:31 pm: |
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Talked to a mechanic today and he told me that it sounded like an oil pump. I called about buying an oil pump and parts guy told me the pump is mechanically driven from motor and that they never go bad. Now I don't know whether to spend the $200 on the pump or not. Any help, please. |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 3935
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 03:16 pm: |
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is that fuel injected or carbed?
sounds like bad connections |
V Portera
New member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 05:36 pm: |
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So glad you took the time. It is fuel injected.
Also, if oil sensor or oil pump were not working correctly, wouldn't I get an oil flow alarm of some sort? |
V Portera
Member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 07:01 pm: |
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I think problems are worse than I feared. Got home from work and bought a compression tester. Removed all plugs, screwed the tester in each plug hole and turned engine over for a few seconds. 5 cylinders read 97-98 psi, but one (lower right) shows nothing. Tried several times but can't get any compression from that one cylinder. I did not warm engine before testing, engine is completely cold if that makes a difference. Engine not making and weird noises or anything. I am no mechanic but this sounds serious. Now what? Does this mean a rebuild is next? |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 3951
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 08:00 pm: |
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ok
try the wet test
might just need a ring |
V Portera
Member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 5
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 08:52 pm: |
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Thanks for the info "justintime". I respect your knowledge and help. I am afraid I don't know what a "wet test" is though. Could you explain to this novice mechanic wannabe? |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 3956
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 09:03 pm: |
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pour 1 tablesppon of any oil down there and test it
sounds like stuk rings
try to look down it and see |
V Portera
Member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 6
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 12:39 pm: |
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added the oil and rechecked compression. All I got was 2 psi. |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 3965
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 12:49 pm: |
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time to pull head |
V Portera
Member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 7
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 04:09 pm: |
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Any idea what the "good news" "bad news" might be? Like maybe the least damage I might find, and the worst case I might find and could you break this down in dollars. |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 3967
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 06:29 pm: |
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good could be a ring or head gasket
bad would be a re-bore |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 3968
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 06:29 pm: |
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good could be a ring or head gasket
bad would be a re-bore |
V Portera
Member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 8
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 08:04 pm: |
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Pulled the head and took a look and surprisingly, it doesn't look to bad. I can feel some roughness on the cylinder wall but that is all i can see. I can't see the rings but the piston look just like the others, no pieces, and the piston moves just fine. Just some scaring on the cylinder wall. Does this mean the cylinder needs re-boring? |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 3969
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 08:16 pm: |
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email me some pics
you could go cheap with new rings |
V Portera
Member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 9
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2008 - 04:40 pm: |
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Took it to mechanic and he said the cylinder would have to re-bored. The scaring is to much for just honing. He said he would probably be able to rebore .010 over and that I needed a 10 over piston and complete set of rings. I am not going to "try this at home". Now I will explain how this came about.
During Hurricane Katrina, local authorities used my boat for two weeks during the evacuation and when they were done with it, the boat was totalled. Had holes in the hull, the lower unit was destroyed from hitting sunken cars, fences, trees, and anything else that didn't float. The boat sat at a dumpsite for over a year, while I waited to be reimbursed for the damages (not insured).
I finally recieved $12,000 for the damages and decided to get it fixed. Had the hulled repaired, a lower unit put on it and the ptt repaired. The boat looked practically new. By this time, the motor had not been run in open water for two years. I did however run it on hose hookup in driveway.
I launched the boat and it ran great at first, but immediately developed and oil flow issue. The oil had geled and would not pass through the oil flow sensor and the alarm kept going off. After several attempts, the problem fixed itself and oil began the flow. I was worried about this problem, so once back at home, I removed the oil tank, the oil lines and the oil flow sensor. Cleaned it all out and poured new oil in the oil tank. Then it sat in the driveway for 5 months.
A week ago I finally decided to put it in the water and test run it before starting the summer fishing season. I idled it out to open water and it was running ok. Once in open water, I decided to let it all out to see what it would do. It was running great, when suddenly, I lost rpms and engine just quit. It would not turn over at all for about 5 minutes. Finally hit the key and I had some trouble getting it started but it did start and was running very rough. Got it back up on plane and then it did the same thing. I waited about 5 minutes and managed to get it started again, but this time, I idled back to the launch. This is what brought me here.
After all the help and info I received here and from Suzuki dealer, it was determined (and I had to concur) that I did not bleed the oil back through the oil pump during my amature repair and the engine seized due to lack of oil.
So this back yard mechanic wannabe just put himself back an estimated $1500 in dumb damage and repairs. Hope anyone who decides to to his own repairs reads this.
I would like to post some pictures of the boat being used during the storm and the damage done to the boat by the National Guard after the rescue. If anyone would like to see these, email me vinnyp@bellsouth.net and I would be glad to send them to you.
VinnyP |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 3997
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 12:44 am: |
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email me pics
i would love to c them |
V Portera
Member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 10
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 05:40 pm: |
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Ok, powerhead now rebuilt. 6 new pistons and rings. Mechanic, (I do use word loosely) had block rebored 25 over and I bought 25 over Suzuki oem pistons and rings. He told me he took it out for test drive and it ran great. Said motor really smoothed out after 4000 rpm. I brought boat home and changed the fuel filter/ water separator and took it out for a run. Could not even get it to start. I then returned to shop and was told it sounded like vapor lock. Probably had air in the injectors. He would have to bleed the fuel system and get rid of air.
When I picked it up again, he told me to make sure I pumped the suction bulb till hard. He did this at his shop and it started.
So I took boat home again and took it out on the lake. It started after pumping bulb as told but wasn't running very smooth. Shaking badly. I got about 5 miles out on lake in the evening after work and you guessed it. Engine just quit. I pumped the bulb and tried for 45 minutes (now dark) and after an hour finally got it to start again. It was running terrible at low speed but ok at higher rpms. It was shaking so badly at low speed, I just didn't think this was right. Once back home I decided to check compression in all cylinders just out of curiosity knowing that engine still isn't broken in. All three cylinders or port side only registered 85 lbs, while all three cylinders on starboard side registered 92 lbs. This seems really strange to me, but I am not a mechanic. Not even close to one. This all brings me back here. I took boat back to shop again and was told it sounded like air getting into fuel line, but I don't smell fuel leaking out. Is my mechanic giving me the BS or is there something seriously wrong with the rebuild. |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 4354
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 08:07 pm: |
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tough to tell
if you run a vacuum pressure test it would tell u |
V Portera
Member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 11
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 08:51 am: |
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Not sure what to do. What do I need to do this test and how is it hooked up? What am i looking for? |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 4360
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 12:17 pm: |
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buy a fuel vacuum gauge
then you need to plug it before the fuel filter on motor
you want less than 4" vaccum
then you plug it after low pressure pump
you want more then 3 PSI |
V Portera
Member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 12
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 09:13 am: |
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Didn't have to do the vacuum test. I took it back once again. Shop found that it was stator that was not working correctly. It would fire intermittenly and sometimes not at all. He changed the stator and we took it out for a test run. Man it runs great.
That solved the bad running problem, but let's move on to the next one.
When powerhead was rebuilt, I was told to run with oil in gas tank and oil tank for a break in period of 8 to twelve hours. So I added oil to gas tank and filled oil tank. After last visit to shop I have run motor for 3 hours and removed motor cover to inspect. I found that motor was only running on gas/oil from gas tank and not pumping oil from oil tank. Not a drop was used from oil tank during this 3 hour run. Question is, would oil pump be damaged from not pumping oil for 3 hours or could I just bleed oil line and go from there and why wouldn't oil flow sensor give me some indication? |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 4391
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 08:35 pm: |
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bleed the lines |
VinnyP
Member
Username: vinnyp
Post Number: 14
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 12:13 pm: |
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Again, why am I not getting alarm when oil is not passing through oil flow sensor? Shop has boat again to check oil flow. |
JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime
Post Number: 4450
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 12:20 pm: |
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could be bad sensor |
