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DF90 low pee hole volume; overheating

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Suzuki Outboard » DF90 low pee hole volume; overheating « Previous Next »

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Steve Holliman
New member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 02:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Before I changed the impeller I had low pee hole volume and overheating. I started by pulling the cover off the pee hole and poking thin spears into the hole as it was being flushed. Salt deposits came out into my hand; therefore I fliushed with Salt Away to no avail. Have now replaced the impeller even though the old impeller was in great shape. Still have the problem; for 5min.at 3k rpm engine overheated.
Now I am going to remove the thermastat and test it and also see if there is garbage in that location.
Any suggestions are apreciated.
steve
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Julio Ramires
Member
Username: handric

Post Number: 6
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Dear Steve Holliman,

In case you are testing the engine using a water tank, make sure that all the holes at the bottom are adequately emerged into the water. In case you are using those sort of "stethoscope", close the two upper holes at the bottom of the column with a tape, in order to avoid the water going out from these holes instead of goin up.

Regards,

Julio
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Patrick W Murray
Member
Username: pgm181

Post Number: 16
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 05:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I use salt-x or salt away every other use of the boat. Both are excellent products and will insure this will not happen in the future. Does your engine have a flush intake fitting in the upper part of the engine, if so I don't recommend using it to run the engine, I always use rabbit ears. To guarentee the water pump is lubricated and is forcing water to the pee hole. I do use the flush connector for flushing the engine after use with the salt chemicals. Do not run the engine when flushing though, using the flush port, as the water pump being in the foot is to far away from the source water to lube it properly. (Suzuki service manual). And you should buy a service manual for your engine. Not one of the generic ones, but the real one from a dealer that sells Suzuki engines and parts.
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Steve Holliman
Member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Julio, yes there was water coming out of those holes as I was flushing with rabbit ears. Tomorrow I will emerse the entire lower unit.
Today I blew air into all the water hoses and with the engine running I disconnected each hose to see what flow I had. All flowed except the return from the crankcase, this with just the rabbit ears. Also I took the thermastat out, tested it (it worked,, but I will replace it) and left it out before I flushed and checked all hoses.
Patrick, I have the service manual and it is helping me to run these water lines etc. Are you guys saying that with just the rabbit ears, not emersed, running the engine 3k for 5min. that it should not be peeing strongly and overheat?
Thaks,
Steve
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Patrick W Murray
Member
Username: pgm181

Post Number: 17
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

What are these water lines you are talking about? Also and why would you run your engine @ 3k for 5 mim. on rabbit ears? It should be peeing strongly at idle on rabbit ears? Pat
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Steve Holliman
Member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Patrick, There are rubber hoses running all over the stbd side of the engine including 3-3way joints that direct water to different areas of the engine and the pee hole. The service manual has a scematic of this.

It is not peeing strongly at idle with rabbit ears. Thats what started all this in the first place.
Thanks, Steve
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JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime

Post Number: 3482
Registered: 09-2006


Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

pour clr down the t-stat hole
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Steve Holliman
Member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 09:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Just-in-Time,
Have you done this?
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JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime

Post Number: 3492
Registered: 09-2006


Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 09:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

yep work great
i run motor with out t-stat to get all the hunk out
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Steve Holliman
Member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Monday, March 10, 2008 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Did you leave it in for only 2min. like the bottle says or longer? and will it get to the crankcase this way?
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JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime

Post Number: 3495
Registered: 09-2006


Posted on Monday, March 10, 2008 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

yes like 5 mins
will not get in the crankcase
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Patrick W Murray
Member
Username: pgm181

Post Number: 20
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Monday, March 10, 2008 - 01:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

How did the engine get so clogged up?
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Steve Holliman
Member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 8
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 - 12:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Sitting 4 months without starting it. not using salt-away ever. I put the CLR into the thermastat opening for 5min without success. It is sitting with salt-away in it now.
I'm not sure what to do next.
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Patrick W Murray
Member
Username: pgm181

Post Number: 21
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 - 02:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Do you have an engine flush port on the upper part of the engine? The kind where you don't use rabbit ears. If so hook it up to a water hose engine off, it should pee almost as strong as if the engine were running, does it? If not it's from there up, you have isolated the lower unit. Try compressed air in that fitting see if you get good air press. at the pee hole? Then try to flush again.
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Patrick W Murray
Member
Username: pgm181

Post Number: 23
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

How many hours on this engine? Just for info, I have left my twin 225's sit for 10 months once. No problems. All I do is flush with the fitting at the engine cover (not rabbit ears) for 5 min. each, engines off. Not sure this your problem is your fault?
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Steve Holliman
Member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 9
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

It's an '02 and has at least 1000hrs on her. Still in great shape. I have concentrated salt-away sitting in her going on 2days. Going to recheck all water routes today or tomorrow. Trying to configure a rig to squirt water into these small hoses.
Thanks, I'll be back.
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Steve Holliman
Member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 10
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 08:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Checked all water lines. All clear. Pulled lower unit, broke down water pump, put wter pump back together, ran out of time. Will reassemble lower unit tonite and testwith ears.
later,
steve
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Steve Holliman
Member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 11
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

We have checked all water routes and have norrowed it down to partial blockage in the cylinder. Looks like we have to get at the cylinder head and scrape out the corrosion.
What do yall suggest.
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JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime

Post Number: 3542
Registered: 09-2006


Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2008 - 11:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Steve Holliman

pull heads and scrape
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Steve Holliman
Member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 12
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Thursday, May 15, 2008 - 05:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Called a mechanic. He said these engines have giving them corrosion problems in the mid unit around the oil pan. Thought we could just back out nine bolts and pull the midunit off til it would not budge, looked back in the book and noticed one bolt in the interior with the only access to it was by removing the power unit, WOW.
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Steve Holliman
Member
Username: badnole

Post Number: 13
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Thursday, May 15, 2008 - 06:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Called the mechanic back and he said do not pull the power head! That is way to much for this problem right now. Since I did have partial flow he wantad me to put it all back together and drop it in the water and see how it performs.
Well here starts an addendum to the story. One of the nine bolts to the mid unit never would come completely out and then would never go completely back in. We tried everything, got it in to a quarter inch out.since we could not get the midunit loose with all nine bolt loose and now we had 8 bolts holding I covered this one with silicone and let it go.

Got to the thermastat cover. Book says torque to 14 ft/lbs. Hell I never got to 10 and the first one strips the head. Got two holding but want the third fixed so I drill a center hole, proceed with a backout bit, it breaks off, get it out, then break off another one,DAMN.
We drill and dig and get nowhere. Finally locate a shop that will remove it and put a heli coil in. They break off a backout bit, but succeed in fixing it for $125.
Put her in the water, pee hole flow is not as strong as I have seen and it spits abit but it does not overheat and runs good. Take it home and flush some sand and small shell out. I run salt away. Launch again she runs better.
What an ordeal!

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