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| Author |
Message |
    
Bill Herzfeld
New member
Username: ribfan
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 03:53 pm: | 
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My BF150 is an 2006 with 200 hours. My usual seasonal service is oil & filter change and gear oil, new outboard gas filter plus all the usual, ie fogging cylinders, stabilizing gas, draining VST and rest of fuel system including fuel tank. Last year I replaced the two internal fuel filters. So far so good, right now, the engine runs great with a strong water stream, but at 200 hours Honda calls for new plugs and water pump rebuild.
Any opinions? |
Lee Roeder
Advanced Member
Username: roederll
Post Number: 180
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 12:21 pm: |
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Yea many outboard and automakers say things like that, Its probably a good idea to do so. However, it really at your descrection, spark plugs is not terribly expensive, granted if you can do it yourself. The waterpump is more difficult, however both prolong the life of your motor. |
W D Neal
Advanced Member
Username: chawk_man
Post Number: 250
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 01:43 pm: |
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One reason to pull the plugs and inspect them is to keep them from seizing to the heads. The BF 225 manual calls for a plug change every 400 hours. BUT, experience has taught many owners that they need to at least pull them every season or every 200 hours, and re-install or replace using anti-seizing grease. Once you've gone to the trouble of pulling them, why not go ahead and replace them?
The water pump re-build is more flexible for some boaters, especially those operating in fresh water. However, I work in saltwater and get into very shallow environments several times a year, so I change it every 200 hours, regardless of how strong the telltale. The last thing you want to experience is a failed water pump while on the open water.
The rest of what you are doing sounds fine. I would also consider pulling the t-stats, cleaning and testing. Before you put up the engine for the winter, you should run non-ethanol gas through it or gas treated with a good stabilizer. Also, make sure you have all the water out of the lower unit. Even a little bit can crack the casing if it freezes. |
Bill Herzfeld
Member
Username: ribfan
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 04:38 pm: |
|
Thanks for your thoughts & ideas.
I do pull and check the plugs in the fall to fog the engine, so that gets done. When I called my local Honda dealer for the NGK plugs, they wanted $20.00 each, my local NAPA dealer has the same plug @ $13.69 each, so at that price it's a no brainer. I haven't pulled the t-stats yet, so that and the water pump rebuild will be my spring projects.
What do you use for gear oil? Synthetic or natural? In the past I have used a good quality automotive GL 4/5 automotive oil. Any thoughts on that? |
W D Neal
Advanced Member
Username: chawk_man
Post Number: 251
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 07:17 pm: |
|
GL 4/5 works fine. That's what I use. Walmart special. I really think the synthetics are fine for auto's, but normally a waste of money for outboards. Honda specifically states that all its specs are for petroleum based oils, and recommends those. If you are changing the motor oil and lower case oil every 100 hours as recommended, then the synthetics are a waste and are not optimum for your engine. |
Bill Herzfeld
Member
Username: ribfan
Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 11:02 pm: |
|
W D,
I do the motor oil and gear oil every fall. I may only do 50 hours in the season depending on the weather, but I don't want to have the motor sit till spring with dirty oil in it. I have had good luck with Mobil 5000 10/30 for the engine, and will stick with what I used last time for the gear case.
Thanks for all the help. |
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