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Honda BF50A 2001 Removing Lower Unit

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Sean Bermingham
New member
Username: vatalon56

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Followed Seloc online manual steps for removing lower unit. It will not separate. There is a rubber tube and actuator shaft that are attached to the lower unit. Am I suppose to disconnect these? How do I do it? I'm trying to rebuild water pump so that will probably be my next subject! Help!!!!
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mike
Advanced Member
Username: hondadude

Post Number: 183
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If the rubber tube is about 1/4 inches in diameter and to the front of the lower unit, it is the speedo tubing. There should be a nipple a few inches up the tubing that connects it to the tubing to your speedometer. Disconnect it there. If the hose is routed up through the lower part of the engine, it comes out the top and goes to the front of the boat. You may have to get some slack in the tubing to get to the nipple that may be up inside the motor.

There is a shift shaft just behind the tubing. that may be the actuator shaft you are taling about. Put the motor into reverse and you will see a long nut (about an inch long) and a locking nut below it. Unlock the locking nut and back off the long connecting nut. It goes up. The linkage disconnects there.

There are four mounting bolts or nuts(two on each side) and one nut under the trim tab. Once all that is disconnected, it should come apart.

When you go go put it back on, remember to keep it in reverse and when connecting the shift shaft, postiion the locking nut about .3 inches from the end of the shift shaft. Then turn the connecting nut (long nut) down to it and then lock them together.
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Sean Bermingham
New member
Username: vatalon56

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 06:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Mike that is the rubber tube. It comes out just above the Lower Unit, towards the front. It sticks out about 6 inches and is plugged off at the end. Right now the lower unit has about 1 inch gap and I can see where it is attached to the top of the lower unit, in front of the water pump housing. The shift shaft, assuming we are talking about the same thing, comes up through the same opening the tube comes through and attaches to an actuator that is attached to the mounting bracket. You have pretty much confirmed what I thought had to be removed. I purchased the Seloc on-line manual and it just does not go into enough detail. I've broken down and ordered the hard copy manual and hope it will cover things in more detail.

After I get the lower unit off, I'll be rebuilding the water pump. It created quite a problem this season. It started with mud bugs clogging the discharge port and after I cleared that problem (everything ran fine in the yard but when I got it on the water, I could not get any power out of the unit.

Anyway, thank you for your help and I'll let you know how it turns out.
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mike
Advanced Member
Username: hondadude

Post Number: 184
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The good news is you do not have to do anything with the speedo tube.

The manual does not say this, but after you remove the lower unit, it would be worth the effort to also remove the thermostat, check it for debris and backflush the system from there with a garden hose. You should do this especially if there are any missing impeller parts. If you use this in saltwater and there is a lot of buildup, you probably should change it.

Also, be sure to check below the water pump down to the pickup screens. Sometimes pieces will go down there too and cause a blockage.

Be sure to pay attention on how to reconnect the shift shaft. The shifting can be messed up if not done correctly.

Good luck!
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Sean Bermingham
New member
Username: vatalon56

Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 08:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Mike,
Where is the thermostat located? I've been operating in fresh water but I'd like to clean out the thermostat and my next task will be the carb's.

Thank's again!
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mike
Advanced Member
Username: hondadude

Post Number: 185
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 09:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

You have to remove the timing belt cover on the top of the engine. The thermostat is on top of the engine right above the spark plugs. It is held in by a cover with two bolts.

As for the carburators, be sure to follow the instructions in the manual. The parts for a complete carb job alone run about $200. This is assuming the valve set, intake manifold and muffler gaskets,o ring set, idle jets (which tend to crack on the older carbs), and base gaskets are all changed. Some people reuse a lot of these parts. We feel, why take chances when you have everything apart.
Once the carbs are off and in an ultrasonic cleaner, the intake manifold and other gaskets need to be cleaned off.
The hoses...especially the ones behind the carbs may be getting brittle and should be changed. The entire fuel system should be flushed for debris.

Once the carbs are reassembled and put back onto the motor, they need to be adjusted and vacuum balanced. This may take from 15 minutes to 30 minutes or more to do correctly. The motor must be at operating temperature to do correctly.

Make sure your fuel is fresh and has no water in it before you try to run the engine after the carb job.
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Sean Bermingham
Member
Username: vatalon56

Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Mike,
Another question! Is the gasket on the thermostat reusable or should I order a new one?

I've got the rebuild kit for the water pump and it has all of the replacement parts.
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Tom Whiteside
New member
Username: tomwjr

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 11:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have a 75 hp honda that I am trying to clean the carburators.I can't get the silencer cover off.The manual say's there are two bolts holding it on.There is another bolt that I cannot get a wrench on.Can anyone help?
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mike
Advanced Member
Username: hondadude

Post Number: 187
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

It would probably be good to order one. Sometimes the cover comes off clear, sometimes not. It is just a paper gasket.
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Tom Whiteside
New member
Username: tomwjr

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Friday, October 16, 2009 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I am trying to get the silencer cover off of a 75 HP Honda and I can't get the bolt off the inside of the cover.Do I need a special wrench?
Has anyone had this problem? I want to clean carburators.
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mike
Advanced Member
Username: hondadude

Post Number: 193
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Friday, October 16, 2009 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Tom,

There is a silencer duct and a silencer cover.

The duct has two bolts and is the part that has a 90 degree turn in it and is located on the front of the motor.

You take that off first. One bolt is on the inside of the bend and other is on the outside.

Then you remove the choke knob rod.

Then remove the throttle cables

Then remove the choke link which goes down to the choke arm which connects to the choke solinoid.

Drain the carburators

Disconnect the fuel lines going from the fuel pumps to the carburators.

Disconnect the breather tube from the cylinder head cover.

Remove 6 flange bolts and two cap nuts that hold the intake manifold onto the head.

Grab the silencer and hold up the timing belt cover and wiggle the whole assembly. That should loosen the whole assembly at the head.

Remove as an assembly, then you can reach the four bolts that hold on the silencer.

Try to put locate the carbs in the same place that you removed them...that should make vacuum balancing easier.

While we are talking about vacuum balancing, if you are just experiencing a rough idle, many times that can be remedied with just a good vacuum balancing.

Good Luck!
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Chris galati
Member
Username: constablechris

Post Number: 15
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 07:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Sean,

When you put all the impeller bits back together make sure your bolts are done up nice and tight. A lot of the time people just snug the bolts in but then too much air gets sucked in. Also the stainless prop shaft has a key which fits into the impeller. Dont drop it and make sure you put it back in

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