| Author |
Message |
    
Steven Brin
New member
Username: steven_b
Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 01:47 pm: | 
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I am a Newbie here and hope that someone may help me out.
My Honda, a dinghy motor, launched itself off of the transom while running (loose transom mount) and broke the piston connecting rod.
I have been able, without a repair manual, to remove the flywheel and cylinder cover. So I can now see the broken connecting rod and do not see any more damage.
I am not sure, however, how to remove the crankshaft in order to get at the piston.
I also do not know how to lower the plastic engine cover so as to unscrew the valve cover and see if they are working. Should I assume they are OK?
Can anyone help me with the above? Is the Seloc repair manual good or should I try the Honda official manual?
ANY help will be much appreciated!
Thanks
Steven |
mike
Advanced Member
Username: hondadude
Post Number: 125
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 07:42 pm: |
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I would get the Honda official manual. Although even it is not the greatest for what you want to do, it should provide a lot of help.
Believe it or not, the lower plastic engine does not get lowered. You have to remove the engine just to inspect/adjust valve clearances.
You will have to split the engine case to ge the crankshaft out. Which also means you have to remove the engine.
The removal is not that hard, just has several steps. Having the manual really helps.
I haven't had mine totally apart like what you are doing, but have had the engine off, adjusted valves and replace the centrigal clutch, etc.
I have one at work that I will be tearing down this winter for a customer. So I would be interested in your progress.
Good luck! |
Steven B.
New member
Username: steven_b
Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 05:57 am: |
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Mike, thanks for your reply.
How did you get the engine off?
I have split the case and can remove the crank part of the broken connecting rod but cannot figure out how to get the crank off!
Any ideas? Call me if you have the time - 401-480-9779
Thanks!
Steven |
mike
Advanced Member
Username: hondadude
Post Number: 128
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 11:21 am: |
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There are four bolts under the bottom cover that are closest to the vertical shaft. Removing those should release the powerhead.
It looks to me that once the engine is removed, the flywheel is removed and the case is split, that the crank should come out.
You really need to bet a manual. Then you will have all the parameters for putting it back together.
I have not had to tear one down this far before.
Maybe someone else has more hands on experience at taking this apart. |
Steven B.
New member
Username: steven_b
Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, September 27, 2009 - 06:41 am: |
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Update - thus far:
Firstly, the SELOC manual is pretty useless (this is an older one) and covers the 2 hp motor almost as an after-thought. DO NOT get this as it is a waste of monies for this model Honda. I do not think I can get my money back as I took off the cellophane wrapper. The Honda manual, while not super user friendly, is helpful, and includes the torque settings for putting it back together.
As noted above, I split the top of the motor to see that the connecting rod had broken.
With the help of the Manual (and Mike's comments above) I removed the engine from the housing. The crankshaft is easily removed once the clutch mechanism located on the bottom of the engine is taken off.
While waiting for the parts to all come in, I have cleaned the old sealant off from the mating halves of the motor. While I was going to replace the oil seals for the crank, I do not have a press which can evenly press the new ones back in, and because the motor has such few hours (maybe 20) I will reuse the old ones. The cylinder looks clean and is without scoring/scratches as does the crank. Piston/rings also look fine. I am going to replace the connecting pin at the piston as it seems to me that this is the other part of the system which took the torque from the lock-up which caused the connecting rod to break.
We will see how this all works!! |
mike
Advanced Member
Username: hondadude
Post Number: 159
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, September 27, 2009 - 04:09 pm: |
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It is good to hear things are working out.
I hope everything goes back smoothly. |
Steven B.
Member
Username: steven_b
Post Number: 4
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2009 - 05:47 pm: |
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Eureka!
Engine is back together and sounds better than new!
Sometimes things just work out great (and now I have a small torque wrnch for the next project...... |
mike
Advanced Member
Username: hondadude
Post Number: 165
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2009 - 10:37 pm: |
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Congratulations!
Thanks for the feedback. |
