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1992 Force 90hp tilt/trim problem

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Felicia Rodriguez
New member
Username: firefitr1123

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Friday, May 02, 2008 - 11:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hello!! Thank you for having such a great site. I have a little problem. Just bought a 92 bayliner with a Force 90hp and all works well except that when I lift the motor it drops in a matter of minutes on its own. In otherwords, I have a problem with the hydraulics. What could it be. I really don't know anything about boats or outboards for that matter. You really need to take me step by step here. It does seem like I saw a little tiny bit of hydraulic fluid in the water, but just a minute amount. Could this be causing the loss of pressure?
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Andy Woodhouse
Member
Username: jafa39

Post Number: 54
Registered: 04-2008
Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 05:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Seals are most likely buggered, the system needs an overhaul.

Check the level and bleed the syatem as a precaution but i would put money on the seals, if the seals (both internal and external) are stuffed then it can't hold the pressure.
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Dave Spoula
Advanced Member
Username: daves69

Post Number: 133
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 12:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Found this info on the net ........

Chrysler Force Power Trim & Tilt repair
Chrysler Force outboard engines 70-150HP, 1966-1995

Generally speaking a well maintained Chysler Force Power Trim and Tilt system is good for about 15 years with oil and 12 years with ATF.

Topping off your fluid
If your fluid is low then the system will raise to certain level and stop. Prestolite systems should be topped off with the engine lowered. Mercury systems should be topped off with the engine tilted. If your existing fluid is red then use ATF. If your existing fluid is not red then use non-detergent 30W motor oil or ISO32 hydraulic oil.

Bleeding out air bubbles
The system is self bleeding. There are no issues associated with air bubbles in cylinders. Top off the resevoir and cycle the system up/down a few times. If your problem remians then it is something else.

System bleeds down
Fully tilt the engine and block into place.
Remove oil tube from bottom of tilt cylinder and plug the hole with a 3/16" inverted flare plug
(standard brake fitting available from any auto parts store)
Remove blocking from engine and observe
If engine bleeds down then the lift cylinder is bad. If engine does not bleed down then the pump is bad.

The pump motor quit, runs slow, or only runs in one direction.
The motor rarely wears out. Check the relays and wiring first. If it goes in only one direction then swap the relay connections and see if the problem is reversed. The pump motor draws a lot of amperage - especially the 3w models. If the pump is running slow then check to make sure that all electrical feeds are clean and secure. If the motor quit running then it is probably due to rust or oil. The seals break down and debris can cause the brushes to loose contact with armature. Sometimes you can open the motor and blow it clean. Reassemble with new seals not silicon sealant. If it is rusty then you should get the pump rebuilt by someone who will bead blast the inside of motor collar.

The trim cover top ring is coming out
carefully clean out any debris and reseat the ring by driving it back down with a socket and mallet. Make four indentations into the surrounding aluminum with a punch to hold it in place

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