| Author |
Message |
    
Elisha Danzig
New member
Username: zmasterflex
Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 06:46 pm: | 
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I'm having trouble with the solenoid. Apparently it isn't a mechanical one it's a "triad" or "triac" (electric). I know how to diagnose the other type but this one is giving me fits. It reads full current when the switch is off, and drops down to negligible when it is on. Does anyone know of a link where they explain this type of solenoid? I can't find one. Thanks for the patience. |
Michaem J Cormier
New member
Username: mjcormier
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 06:42 am: |
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Is it a small square item with 4 stake connectors |
Elisha Danzig
New member
Username: zmasterflex
Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, April 27, 2008 - 10:35 pm: |
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Thanks for the reply. It is a cylinder that has two screws coming off the top seperated by a plastic "fence". On one screw there is a line going to the starter, on the other there is a line going to a circuit breaker and then to the rest of the components. Presumably the positive from the battery goes there too. Also on the solenoid is a screw off the side with a yellow wire (key switch) and one with a black wire(s).
I was told this is a solid-state ignition or non-mechanical ignition that includes a rectifier also. I have no clue what this means. |
Michael J Cormier
Member
Username: mjcormier
Post Number: 14
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 05:44 am: |
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Your explanation does not sound rite,first you can measure voltage when there is no potentail difference,so you will not read voltage during operation,but before we go any further, there is a saftey neutral switch and might be on the cable control side of engine. Make certain your thorttle is in neutral, check switch, should be closed, in other words 0000 res. then we will move on to the solinoid. Kindy state name of the person you are asking the question to. Michael. |
Elisha Danzig
New member
Username: zmasterflex
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 10:19 am: |
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Thanks Michael. The original owner had this habit of trying to start his motor in gear so he bypassed the switch, the first thing I did was reattach it. I don't know much about ignition, the other motor I have has a solenoid then a starter which I was told was called a mechanical ignition. This one has a rectifier also and is somehow called electrical. I have time to learn this stuff I just don't know where or how. Thanks for the patience. |
Michael J Cormier
Member
Username: mjcormier
Post Number: 17
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 11:03 am: |
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Did you solve yor problem? We still need to dicuss solenoid, which by the way has nothing to do with rectifiers,and you may have solid state ignition but that has nothing to do with starters, stay with me and i will get you through this. Michael |
Elisha Danzig
Member
Username: zmasterflex
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 12:32 pm: |
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I didn't solve my problem because I don't know where to begin. I'm trying to get ahold of a manual though. Thanks for the patience. Elisha |
Michael J Cormier
Member
Username: mjcormier
Post Number: 19
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 03:19 pm: |
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Elisha, it is always good to have manual, now let's discuss this clylinder shaped thing you have described, that IS your start solenoid!!
Now check voltage at battery side of unit , do you see more than 12vdc,if so Turn key switch to start from the same test point bat+ check voltage again,do you still see 12vdc, if not put a battery charger on the battery or boost from other source, now you should see a difference. You see battery's may show 12 volts with no load but that does not mean that the battery is GOOD. What determines a good battery is the capability of said battery to delivery under load. Your solenoid requires 11.5 vdc to activate. So before you change it put it on a charger or boost it with a vechile then we can determine where your problem might be. I am still here to help. Email me direct if need be. I work with battery opreated equipment as the major part of my living and in as much as I am not a marine expert, you can not fool me on DC Systems. Your original posting stated you checked current,are you talking amps? I think not,Unless you have an amp clamp capable of measuring dc amp, if you do own one than you would not be asking these questions. Stay with me we will GET ER DONE
MICHAEL |
Elisha Danzig
Member
Username: zmasterflex
Post Number: 5
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 08:34 pm: |
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Here's what I got: The Force model that I have, the negative battery cable is suppossed to go right onto the the powerhead. The connection I was using wasn't very good and thats why with zero load I was getting a voltage drop from 12.70 to between 8-9. I adjusted the connection and I moved the black wires from the wire terminal onto one of the terminal mounting screws. This changed my resistance from a sporadic 0-18 ohms to a negligible number. What I was doing originally was testing the volts from different hot and cold points long the motor and was getting different numbers. The easy solution (that I counld'nt think of) was the bad ground(s) connections. This solved the problem. The starter was also in bad condition and wouldn't move. I took it apart and cleaned it and now it's just acting like an old starter. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP. |
Michael J Cormier
Member
Username: mjcormier
Post Number: 24
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 08:32 am: |
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I am glad you got it sorted out,have a great summer on the water. Michael |
