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Steven brown
New member
Username: sb340da
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 12:17 am: | 
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Hello all!! I recently inherited a 40 horse mariner from my grandfather just before he passed. The motor seems to be in excellent condition as he always took care of his stuff and it was a freshwater great lakes engine. It has been at least 3 years since it was last run as he was too sick but I got it running recently and mounted to a 15' classic whaler. The first hour or so it ran perfect but then wouldn't idle. I put it away till last weekend and it did the same, ran great for the first day but wouldn't idle the second day. Pulled the plugs, they are fouled pretty badly so I'm guessing pulling and tearing into the carbs is in order.
The other issue is the alarm at the controls. When I first got it going, there was an intermittent beeping. Disconnected the oil tank sensor and it went away. Now, there is a continous beep with the key on, running or not. Pulled the wire from the temp switch and it still goes off, what else should I look for? Is there any type of controller in the alarm system or should I simply be looking for a short in the circuit?
Also, can someone tell me anything, good or bad about this motor? The serial # is 0B035684. Its a 4cyl twin carb 2 stroke, I believe to be about a '91 model. Thanks and looking forward to being a part of the board.
Steven |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6223
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 06:18 am: |
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The carbs need a thorough cleaning after sitting that long.
Jeff |
Benjamin Jones
Advanced Member
Username: benjamin_jones
Post Number: 274
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 10:59 am: |
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Do impeller and lower case oil too. After so long standing, it'd be sad to see it cook because of poor water supply to cool it. |
Graham Lamb
Senior Member
Username: galamb
Post Number: 5594
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 12:46 pm: |
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Steven, that is actually a 1986 model, first year for the "new" models. That model stayed in production until about 1995 (I think) when Merc made there next "major" model changes.
Motors stayed almost completely mechanically the same during the model run and were identical whether they were Merc/Mariners or just the Merc versions.
I would love to have one of these models - great ignition, great carbs, good torque, excellent little motors all-round...
No, actually I mean, terrible and problem prone - you should send it to me, I'll do the service work and test it extensively over the next couple years before returning it - just to make sure it's running correctly  |
Steven brown
New member
Username: sb340da
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 01:12 pm: |
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Impeller and LU oil were the very first things I did when I first got it. I don't know a whole lot about outboards but, I've been around boats my whole life so those were at the top of the list. Carbs will be pulled this weekend and thoroughly cleaned. Do I need a kit for them or is it OK to clean then re-assemble? Its kind of nice for a change to be able to work on something I can completely see all the way around, my "big" boat with twin 8.1 v-drives is a pain to get to anything on them, a pair of impellers is a 6-8 hr job and 1/2 bottle of Tylenol.
I am surprised its an '86 model. This motor literally looks new inside and out. Not even a scratch on it!! I'm really glad to hear its a good motor, I don't mind spending some cash on it since it really pushes the 15' whaler much better than I expected for only 40 horses. Graham, if only you lived in NC.......
Any insight to the alarm system?
Also, is there a tach available that will work with this engine? I'm not sure if I'm turning the correct RPM's with the current prop on the whaler. I think the max RPM's should be at 5-5500k?? I have a fluke 88 multi-meter that reads RPM's, but not sure if it will work on a 2 stroke, any ideas? Thanks again
SB |
Graham Lamb
Senior Member
Username: galamb
Post Number: 5600
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Friday, July 10, 2009 - 11:58 am: |
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Only really need carb kits if something is toasted - inspect the needle valves to make sure they are very sharp, not bent/deformed etc, but at minimum I would throw in new gaskets (and only a couple bucks from a Merc dealer).
Believe this one had the early (guardian) - constant tone for overheat and intermittent if low on oil - quick beep when you first power up to let you know the systems is working.
Off the top of my head I think this has the 12 pole stator, so most marine "outboard" tachs should work (so however you need to set up your meter to read 12 poles if it can).
And yes, max rpm range is 5000-5500, so 5200/5300 would be optimum - idle should be 600-700 in forward gear. |
Steven brown
New member
Username: sb340da
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 12:46 am: |
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Well, I cleaned the carbs but, they were spotless when taken apart. Same issue still exists. I'm thinking I'm going to pull them again and put kits in them this time?? I've tried pumping the primer when its about to stall and it makes no diff but I'm also going to put a diaphragm kit in the fuel pump while I'm at it. This thing is smoking like a coal fired freight train now and fouling plugs after only a few minutes so I'm assuming the carbs are way out of whack. No adjustments I make change the way it runs. It seems like the plugs are oil fouled, is it possible for the pump to dump too much oil?
One thing I forgot to mention originally was that even though it ran great at planing speeds, it had an occasional hiccup or hesitation in it at higher RPM's. I'm just assuming thats because of the carbs??
Also, I looked at the SN #'s again and found that I was wrong in my original post, it is OD instead of OB, every other # is correct. What year would that make it?
Thanks again
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