Neubie questions on 1988 80 HP?

Author Message   Jim Hopple New member Username: jim_n_sc Post Number: 1 Registered: 06-2008 Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2008 - 06:51 am:    Just bought a 1988 16' Starcraft with 80 HP Mercury. I didn't get a manuel and have a couple of questions. What is the correct cold starting procedure? What is the spring loaded button on the top of the throttle for? Any maintenance issues with this motor I need to check out. The motor is missing the aluminum torque rudder. It tracks done the lake perfect. Do I need to get one? Thanks for the help.   Benjamin Jones Member Username: benjamin_jones Post Number: 24 Registered: 04-2008 Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 10:08 am:    Hi there! This is the third time I've tried to reply to your post... Maybe Lady Luck will smile upon me... Firstly, WELCOME to the fraternity. You'll find a mine of info here. I'm quite surprised the older guys here has not responded... Anyway, I digress... 1) Cold starting should be straightforward. Primer bulb pumped up stiff, swing the motor. Should fire up at once. Failing that, depress the ign key whilst starting, this should prime the carbs. Also use the neutral throttle lever to pick up the RPM... Always use muffs when doing this out of water. Keep RPM down until motor has warmed up... 2) That button should be neutral interlock lever. Only when pressed, should you be able to select FWD or REV. If not, have it repaired. It's a safety thing. You'd hate to select REV when coming off the plane... $$$ or worse... OUCH!!!! 3) Replace the impeller on an annual basis, worth the expense by comparison to motor re-build... While there, check lower case lube and seals. 4) Now, that "aluminium torque rudder"... It's called a "trim tab / sacrificial anode". Has two distinct functions: a. To correct motor force / torque by compensating for "torque steer". Helps eliminate this phenomenen. Also prevents premature prop wear and strain on motor that you might not feel at the helm. b. Acts as a sacrificial anode, preventing corrosion from galvanic effect caused by water and various metals used in motor construction. Most motors have two anodes, the trim tab and another aluminium block mounted on the transom bracket. Lastly, never run motor at max rev's under no-load condition, you'll pop the powerhead / block. $$$... Hope this helps! Regards from a wintery Johannesburg, South Africa! Benjamin.   Benjamin Jones Member Username: benjamin_jones Post Number: 25 Registered: 04-2008 Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 10:10 am:    Hi there! This is the third time I've tried to reply to your post... Maybe Lady Luck will smile upon me... Firstly, WELCOME to the fraternity. You'll find a mine of info here. I'm quite surprised the older guys here has not responded... Anyway, I digress... 1) Cold starting should be straightforward. Primer bulb pumped up stiff, swing the motor. Should fire up at once. Failing that, depress the ign key whilst starting, this should prime the carbs. Also use the neutral throttle lever to pick up the RPM... Always use muffs when doing this out of water. Keep RPM down until motor has warmed up... 2) That button should be neutral interlock lever. Only when pressed, should you be able to select FWD or REV. If not, have it repaired. It's a safety thing. You'd hate to select REV when coming off the plane... $$$ or worse... OUCH!!!! 3) Replace the impeller on an annual basis, worth the expense by comparison to motor re-build... While there, check lower case lube and seals. 4) Now, that "aluminium torque rudder"... It's called a "trim tab / sacrificial anode". Has two distinct functions: a. To correct motor force / torque by compensating for "torque steer". Helps eliminate this phenomenen. Also prevents premature prop wear and strain on motor that you might not feel at the helm. b. Acts as a sacrificial anode, preventing corrosion from galvanic effect caused by water and various metals used in motor construction. Most motors have two anodes, the trim tab and another aluminium block mounted on the transom bracket. Lastly, never run motor at max rev's under no-load condition, you'll pop the powerhead / block. $$$... Hope this helps! Regards from a wintery Johannesburg, South Africa! Benjamin.   Benjamin Jones Member Username: benjamin_jones Post Number: 26 Registered: 04-2008 Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 10:13 am:    Hi there! This is the third time I've tried to reply to your post... Maybe Lady Luck will smile upon me... Firstly, WELCOME to the fraternity. You'll find a mine of info here. I'm quite surprised the older guys here has not responded... Anyway, I digress... 1) Cold starting should be straightforward. Primer bulb pumped up stiff, swing the motor. Should fire up at once. Failing that, depress the ign key whilst starting, this should prime the carbs. Also use the neutral throttle lever to pick up the RPM... Always use muffs when doing this out of water. Keep RPM down until motor has warmed up... 2) That button should be neutral interlock lever. Only when pressed, should you be able to select FWD or REV. If not, have it repaired. It's a safety thing. You'd hate to select REV when coming off the plane... $$$ or worse... OUCH!!!! 3) Replace the impeller on an annual basis, worth the expense by comparison to motor re-build... While there, check lower case lube and seals. 4) Now, that "aluminium torque rudder"... It's called a "trim tab / sacrificial anode". Has two distinct functions: a. To correct motor force / torque by compensating for "torque steer". Helps eliminate this phenomenen. Also prevents premature prop wear and strain on motor that you might not feel at the helm. b. Acts as a sacrificial anode, preventing corrosion from galvanic effect caused by water and various metals used in motor construction. Most motors have two anodes, the trim tab and another aluminium block mounted on the transom bracket. Lastly, never run motor at max rev's under no-load condition, you'll pop the powerhead / block. $$$... Hope this helps! Regards from a wintery Johannesburg, South Africa! Benjamin.   Jim Hopple New member Username: jim_n_sc Post Number: 2 Registered: 06-2008 Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 02:39 pm:    Thanks Benjamin. Under cold starting I don't understand what you mean by "swing the motor."   Benjamin Jones Member Username: benjamin_jones Post Number: 30 Registered: 04-2008 Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 - 02:15 am:    Hey there! Just noticed that my reply was posted threefold... Maybe the system was compensating for the first two failed attempts! Swing would refer to starting action. What control box is fitted to your boat? Quicksilver 2000 or the 3000 series? The 2000 has all cables visible, 3000 is flush mounted, no cables visible. Does not really matter either way, both are good. Does you IGN switch have an intergrated choke? Can you press the key in when starting? Let me know if you come unstuck! Regards from a chilly Jozi! Benjamin.   Jim Hopple New member Username: jim_n_sc Post Number: 3 Registered: 06-2008 Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 - 03:03 pm:    I have the 2000 control box. I have the integrated key/choke.

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