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1971 Mercury 20hp 200 series will not...

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Mercury Mariner Outboard » Archive through June 27, 2008 » 1971 Mercury 20hp 200 series will not run when you give it gas. « Previous Next »

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Troy Littell
New member
Username: biggamefisherman

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 03:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

This motor was running fine I was going down the water at full speed an it just started acting like it fouled a plug. I changed the plugs an it still sputters an back fires in the carb. I checked to see if it was getting spark an it was. I guess I need to know if its a carb problem or its not getting enough fire.

Thanks Troy
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 966
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

coughing and sneezing indicate a lean condition, fuel problem. could be anything from fuel pump, lines, tank pick-up, or plugged tank vent, but more than likely trash in the carb. remove and clean carb, or if you get it running pump the fuel bulb to see if it helps. They all sound good in the driveway
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Troy Littell
New member
Username: biggamefisherman

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

See I was told that these motors don't have a fuel pump. Could it be I mixed the fuel a little to rich with oil this time on accedent. I'm not talking really really rich but just a little so it smokes. One of the plug wires doesn't snap into the coil like the other one so its a little loose could the be a problem?

Thanks Troy
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 969
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

no and no. On break in of a rebuilt or new engine you run double oil, with no ill effects, maybe a fouled plug once in a while. The coil wire will only effect that one cyl, and won't back fire or cough through the carb. You could bend the tab on the coil wire to make it fit better. If you want to check for spark then hook a timing light up to the plug wires while running. All engine need some type of pump unless the tank is gravity feed, higher then the engine.
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 970
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

one more thing can cause the spitting through the carb, bad reeds or debris in the reeds. not uncommon but requires engine tear down for replacement
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 971
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 04:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

http://www.usboatsupply.com/Mercury_Mercruiser_Parts_Catalog3a.php?mc=01&ms=2050 &si=447

fuel pump
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Robert
New member
Username: starville

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

1976 Mercury 20 hp. serial#4410261

Starts and idles perfectly, accelerates like a rocket, goes like a bullet for about 2 minutes or maybe a mile. Tried swapping fuel line, tank, then I soaked, blew out and rebuilt the B-Series MerCarb and its integral fuel pump. Later, I took out fuel strainer, found and replaced leaking crankcase bleed line, tried all combinations of pump check valves in carb kit. Was not happy to see new style hollow plastic float with no drop adj.(motor had foam float with brass height and drop tangs) , but put it in anyway, and then again at higher end of spec (higher bowl level, which did prolong good running time) as described by insert sheet in float package. Does not flood. Starts instantly in Michigan 40° water. Does not miss or falter one single bit upon acceleration from idle, in gear. Idles at dead slow indefinitely. Boat will plane at half-throttle and will run a long time that way. Will run forever at full throttle as long as I give primer bulb a squeeze every half-minute or so. While faltering, engine will recover immediately when bulb is squeezed. New tank, new fittings, removed tank vent, 2 new bulbs (last one Merc branded), new Merc silver hose, all steel screw-type hose clamps. Also probed crankcase pulse hole with soft tool and shot aerosol throttle body cleaner through it. New carb base gasket. New plugs, L78V. New inlet strainer, cap and gasket. New fuel crossover hose and clamps (was leaking air, but this did not correct surging). New female fitting on new fuel line, fits snug on engine fitting. Engine fitting smooth and clean, no burrs, bayonet pins not worn. No debris found inside fitting. Are there any other possible pump faults? Is it possible to run the bowl out of gas if the motor is over revving, such as with the wrong prop? Or should the pump be sufficient up to extreme RPM's? I will tach it today anyway.

emails welcome, no spam, change ".nut" to ".net" piratebob@webtv.nut
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 980
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 11:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

check compression
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'Bandit
Advanced Member
Username: timebandit

Post Number: 337
Registered: 09-2007
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 05:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

What I would do here is remove all the screens and carb filters from the system and try that. Anti-syphon valves also should be removed.
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Robert
New member
Username: starville

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 06:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Yes, I did that. No screen in pickup pipe of brand new tank, new Quicksilver primer bulb and line, cut the side out of fuel screen at pump, changed float, new diaphragms and check reeds in pump with new gaskets. Found other leaks and corrected them. I put the boat against a tree and ran it WOT for 15 minutes with no problem, but when it runs free on the river, it only lasts for 1 or 2 minutes before fading. Will run 3/4 thrttle no problem. Squeeze the bulb every 15-30 sec and it will run forever at WOT. I sent prop in for new hub and recondidioning today, thinking it may have been over-revving, but I really doubtit because that was the highest pitch prop available for that engie that year.
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'Bandit
Advanced Member
Username: timebandit

Post Number: 338
Registered: 09-2007
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Would it be possible to enlarge the inlet seat a few thousanth's without messing it up? Some of these era motors had known problems that required a rework of some sort to the carb. This could be the bowl air vent as well.
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problem
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

mid 70s merc 20hp sometimes only runs with choke other times no choke but dont idle. carb was rebuilt last yr. has a mind of its own, whats going on

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