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Merc classic 50 45 running very slow....

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Mercury Mariner Outboard » Archive through June 14, 2008 » Merc classic 50 45 running very slow..Help « Previous Next »

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Chad E
New member
Username: limb_bream

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 11:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have a basstracker 87 model tx-17 with a merc classic fifty / 45 on it.. well to start off the motor floods very easily. have trouble cranking it but will fire up. but when I do get going it runs like 5mph max too the floor. the engine however runs and sounds great. I don't think its a cylinder problem cause the motor doesn't sound bad. I just can't get tha thing to go. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. oh btw.. new plugs. packs seem too be fine.. just won't open up
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 938
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

running a 2 cycle engine with a fuel problem will cause certain death of the engine. Too much fuel and it won't run, too little and it won't be lubricated. You have at least 2 carbs, 1 is messed up. Remove and clean both carbs being certain the main jets are clear. Now if you don't want to waste time working on a engine that might be junk, check the spark and compression to see if the engine is healthy. I would love to have that engine, it breaks my heart to see it being destroyed by lack of common maintenance
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Chad E
New member
Username: limb_bream

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 08:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

thanks for the tip JB... I just recently purchased the boat from an old friend. so I'm having to drop a grand on it too get it back to sturdy, healthy condition. I took both carbs off last night and going too take them too be cleaned up and possibly rebuilt since it is an 87 and I got em off so might as well. I let you know what happens in about a week. hopefully this ends my troubles. lata
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 940
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

we can help you if you want to do it yourself, there easy. you should check spark and compression before spending money on parts. the engine needs a waterpump before you try to start it again, every 2 years.post serial number for more help. 3 or 4 cylinder
http://www.usboatsupply.com/Mercury_Mercruiser_Parts_Catalog3a.php?mc=01&ms=4180 &si=275
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Chad E
New member
Username: limb_bream

Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2008 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

its a 4 banger and serial is well. I have two numbers I see , don't know which is right
332-5772A1 and B161045 .. those are the two I found... picking up the carbs tomorrow and compression test afterwards..
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 950
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 09:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

serial number on back of right transom clamp--veiwed from behind boat
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Chad E
Member
Username: limb_bream

Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

0B161045 4cyl.
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Chad E
Member
Username: limb_bream

Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

carbs weren't ready as I figured.. I can replace the gaskets.. but I don't know how to rid of the tarnish throughout the carb itself.
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 954
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 03:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

http://www.usboatsupply.com/Mercury_Mercruiser_Parts_Catalog3a.php?mc=01&ms=3650 &si=335

you need to only due what you are comfortable with. but before you take the carbs to someone check the spark and compression.
this site has some great vidios bottom right of the page
http://www.themarinedoctor.com/cgi-bin//YaBB.pl

comp test
http://www.themarinedoctor.com/cgi-bin//YaBB.pl?num=1114482356

carb adjust
http://www.themarinedoctor.com/cgi-bin//YaBB.pl?num=1150170058

sorry, I now see someone is woking on the carbs
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Chad E
Member
Username: limb_bream

Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 10:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

did compression test . bustin 120 on 1-3 . but no. 4 is a bit tricky. any tips on getting too it? barely enough room too squeeze a plug in, much less getting my tester in there. maybe I'm doing it wrong? I don't know much about this stuff. help jb : ) .. oh yea, they had too replace two bad gaskets, bad floaters and pins in the carbs.. praying my power issue will be fixed when I put a load on it. still have too check spark..
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 963
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

sounds like they found some problems, I'm sure you'll be fine. There should be 4 stainless bolts, 2 on each side, down by the back of the engine, they hold the lower pan on, and 2 up front that hold the front electrical plate on. Remove these to lower pan enough to get the compression tester on. Or let it go.
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Chad E
Member
Username: limb_bream

Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

yea I almost decided to heck with no. 4 , but I'm just too thorough of a person to let it go by w/o checking it. I want to thank you JB for all your technical help. this site is great. gonna drop the boat in within the next week. gonna check out that water pump and possibly rebuild it when I check no. 4.. I get back with you.. thanks again man, your help is much obliged.
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JB
Advanced Member
Username: beckerjs

Post Number: 964
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

welcome, the water pump is a major priority, when they get old they fall apart. You start the engine and the pieces go up the water tube and lodge somewhere in the block, only to cause a hot spot later.
To remove lower unit, control in nuetral. Remove trim tab (mark its position)7/16 socket, look under tab, remove 2 bolts, remove 2 5/8 nuts up front by fins. Drop lower on foot.
Water pump is in plastic housing, 3 7/16 nuts, lift cover, pull rubber pump, catch metel drive shim. To install new pump lube new impeller and housing, install key and impeller on drive shaft, force plastic housing down while turning drive shaft CW. Drink beer and say wow that was easy.
Install lower unit with a small amount of water proof grease on splines. Check to make sure lower is in neutral often by spinning prop. Turn front shaft to get nuetral. Slide everything together, move flywheel if you have to. Be sure water tube goes in pump and slam it home. Drink more beer.
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Jim akers
Visitor
Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 09:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

i purchased a replacement impeller, is it supposed to spim freely on the shaft or is it forced into the housing?, what due you lube it with?
thanks

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