35 Merc Lower Unit Removal

Author Message   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 22 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 06:38 pm:    I wrote a while back seeking advice on how to remove the lower unit on my 1986 35 Merc. I tried tying a come-a-long to the lower unit, nothing. I tried working it off with the nuts using wedges, I deformed the nuts. Tried hanging it up-side-down by the lower unit for about a month, nothing. One suggestion was to run the motor....which I did today, only for a couple of minutes because I didn't get any "tell Tale" flow. I disconnected the tell tale line from the block and still no water.....I put a wire in the hole and still nothing. Then, I took the water intake off and found pieces of the impeller. I don't want to run the motor anymore until I get the impeller replaced.....HELP! Thanks! Spring is coming!!!   K Graham Member Username: youngtech Post Number: 37 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 08:22 pm:    Hey...please post your engine ser # Then we'll go from there.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 23 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 07:59 am:    Sorry K Graham, it's A998598. Electric start, no power tilt. I had posted on this a while back.....but before I was able to start it. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12479/116885.shtml   'Bandit Advanced Member Username: timebandit Post Number: 162 Registered: 09-2007 Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 11:15 am:    Spray somthing down the shaft while it is upsidedown.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 24 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 12:15 pm:    Bandit, I did just that for about a month, with no progress. I guess I'm hoping someone has another "Trick" they can share with me. I had it hanging by the lower unit.   'Bandit Advanced Member Username: timebandit Post Number: 163 Registered: 09-2007 Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 01:11 pm:    I beginning to give up hope.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 25 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 02:54 pm:    NO!!!!!! I really wanted this to have a happy ending......I'll hang it again for another month or so. Unless there are any other suggestions out there.   K Graham Member Username: youngtech Post Number: 40 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 03:52 pm:    Hey was this a salt water engine?? Anyway, after reading all the posts, which there was a ton of them, seems like everyone has suggested just about everything. I would take it to the dealer, let them spend and hour on it and see if they can get it apart for you. Take it to the ugliest smallest marine tech shop around. They seem to be the best for jobs like that.   'Bandit Advanced Member Username: timebandit Post Number: 164 Registered: 09-2007 Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 08:56 pm:    These were a fresh water engine. The shafts are carbon steel. There are not many other suggestions that I can give you.   Brent Dambergs Member Username: brentle Post Number: 17 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 05:10 am:    Undo the top end from the mid section, chain to lifting points on the powerhead and hoist up with chain block and tackle that should help to separate drive shaft! Your inner water jacket plate is probably in as much need of attention IE: rust, rubber impeller fragments and corrosion inside it dont get caught out if you put a new impeller in it and all of a sudden it sends water and other muck left inside the cooling system rushing around the water jackets and blocks it. AI recently re did my midsection gaskets between the power head and it was feral inside to say the least a lot of muck and corrosion inside to the point it was closing over the flow holes in the water jackets. FYI   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 26 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 08:59 am:    K Gram, I think your suggestion is the best one yet, "take it to the ugliest little marine tec shop around". That will be worth the hours work and cost of the impeller to save my engine. Thanks for all the help.   JB Advanced Member Username: beckerjs Post Number: 826 Registered: 11-2005 Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 09:28 am:    I remember your problem, sorry nothing worked. I'm next to St. Louis if you are close.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 27 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 10:10 am:    Hi JB, I'm in Rhode Island, but thanks for asking. And thank you for all the help. I'll let you know how I make out. But with snow in the forecast, it may be a little while.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 28 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 11:07 pm:    Okay Guys, here's one for you. My motor is hanging by the lower unit in my garage because I still cannot get the lower unit to drop. The concensus is that the shaft is "frozen" by rust into the powerhead. My Dad saw it today and said, "how about pouring some Coke down there, that stuff eats anything?". Now I have to admit, I looked at him funny at first, but now I'm wondering.....hmmmmmm? What if? What do you think?   Brent Dambergs Member Username: brentle Post Number: 28 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 04:43 am:    Andy I've read through all the posts from this one and the last one. i noticed JB mentions the shift shaft and the drive shaft, DID i read it right that the front of the lower unit ie: the one that sits closest to the rear of the boat is not pulling apart as far as the other end? i just had my lower unit off my 40hp merc several times and the main drive shaft was fairly rusty like BANDIT states they are only carbon steel. I also had a problem with my shift shaft linkage sticking from the top of the power head down to the lower unit. At the top under the carby is the shift shaft selector i found like a roller or slit pin running through that selector that connects it to the shift shaftand locks the splines. i got a small thin nail punch and tapped it out freeing the shift shaft from top end and hey presto the lower unit dropped down. Once it was out I could easily remove the shift shaft from the lower unit and put it back up through the midsection and re connect it to the selector and replace the pin. Locates in the diagram item no3 19,20 and 21 they are the ones to play with. selector shaft diagram 17.pdf (37.7 k)   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 34 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 08:02 am:    HI Brent, I think you may have something there.....I'm going to take another look at things and I'll let you know. It does seem like it's something like you said, and now that I think about it more, the unit only drops less than a quarter of an inch, which would be about the clearance of the shift lever to the motor housing....I'll let you know and thanks for giving me more hope.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 36 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 04:52 pm:    Brent, I think you're right about the pin in the shift shaft lever.....but I can't figure out how to get it out.....I've been able to move the shift lever to a position where I can insert a steel rod into the hole to push the spring pin out but it will only push out about half way because the engine block is in the way.....now I cannot move or twist the shift lever because the pin hits the engine block. Do I have to drill it out? Here is a photo.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 38 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 09:03 pm:    It didn't work! I cut the pin off per JB's suggestion on this separate post....http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12479/147330.shtml I confused it with your post then tried to go back....anyway.... I don't believe the shift lever connects to the lower unit the way we thought, JB was right. I'm on my last days of hope on this....the outboard shop may have to figure this one out. Thanks for trying though. I think the reason the back end opened more was just a leverage issue.   londfon marine Visitor Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 12:20 am:    I believe it does connect the way we thought!It was a very, very good suggestion but it obvious it is stuck in the crank.   Brent Dambergs Member Username: brentle Post Number: 29 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 04:59 am:    Have you tried jarring the shaft? Put some even pressure between the edges of the lower section IE: wood preferably (2 man Job) Get some one to get a block of wood and a mallot and strike the top of the flywheel whilst the other person places even downwards pressure on the lower unit. By jarring it it will send a shock wave down the drive shaft and help to free up the problem hopefully. Just make sure the items you use to help prise the lower end are wood and same with the block you use to hit with the mallot. I got this info from a boat mechanic who has used this technique on many occassions with rusted sticky drive shafts. Make sure the engine is supportd well ie: on the back of the transom, as I recall you had it hanging upside doen in the garage.. Hope this is of some help??   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 39 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 08:54 am:    Thanks Brent, I'll give it another try once my order for Kroil comes in....I'll soak it for a few days then try your techniques. I don't believe I've tried hiting the top of the fly wheel yet. I've tried hitting everything else with a rubber mallet while there was pressure on the lower unit with wedges....we'll see. Thanks again.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 40 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 09:12 am:    I think it's a sign, just as I posted above, the Kroil arrived......wish me luck!   Brent Dambergs Member Username: brentle Post Number: 32 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2008 - 05:55 am:    Be sure to use a block of wood as a rubber mallot will absorb all the shock where as the wood will carry the shock through the metal. if u use a rubber mallot only to hit the metal the mallot itself will absorb the shock. Plus the wood is still softer than the metal so the worst u can do is break the wood. Freferably get a piece of wood that fits in the area over the flywheel bolts. you need to keep it as central as possible when you strike it. good luck   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 41 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2008 - 07:39 am:    Hi Brent, Here's where it stands at this point: I hooked the engine over the end of my work bench via the transom bracket. I have a strap wrapped around the lower unit, I attached a come-along to the strap and rigged it around the other end of the bench with a little piece of wood to keep the engine/drive shaft and cable in alignment. To strike the flywheel, I actually attached a gear puller and I hit the end with a 4lb hammer, just lightly at first but I can put some pretty good wacks on it....I also drilled a small hole in the upper housing of the leg where I can spray Kroil onto the shaft so it will roll to the splines.....(I can put a screw in the hole later if I need to). I also shimmed under the two bolts on either side of the lower unit to aid in the "pressure". I'm hoping I hear a "pop" while I'm sitting on my couch.....we'll see. If I get a chance, I'll take a photo of the setup.....it looks a little crazy, I'm hoping it will eventually work.   Brent Dambergs Member Username: brentle Post Number: 35 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 05:14 am:    Would love to see the pics of this contraption. Hey if it works you could patent it make a quick million and then buy a new 300hp Mercury Verado V6 and as for the 35hp? well um, they do make good anchors!!   tonyaus Visitor Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 07:46 am:    Andy.. If it doesnt pop, you may consider cutting off the lower unit with a hacksaw.. Start cutting from the front.. you will go through the shift shaft, waterpump, 2 studs and then the driveshaft. These lower units are pretty cheap and plentiful... Make sure you use quality blades. Once lower unit is off, remove the powerhead, weld a plate on the driveshaft and hammer away.. it will come off...   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 42 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 09:22 am:    I'll try to post a photo of it tonight! It's not pretty. Thanks for all the advice but if this doesn't work, I'm going to drop it off at a repair shop to see if they can work some magic.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 43 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 07:32 pm:    Here is an image of the contraption I have set up in my basement trying to remove the lower unit. Any suggestions are welcome.   JB Advanced Member Username: beckerjs Post Number: 843 Registered: 11-2005 Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 - 08:54 am:    the engine needs to stand on its head or hang to let the oil flow down the shaft and into the crank. Don't smack the crankshaft with a hammer, the tappered bearing on top is quite expensive. Looks like a nice rig.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 44 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 - 11:17 am:    I've got a gear puller attached to the flywheel and I've been hitting that! But I've since found another method which I am trying.....since the forward section doesn't separate as much as the aft section, I am going to try and shim it up tight around the center of the lower unit and use the nuts on the aft half of the lower unit to try and "walk" out the shaft.....I started doing it last night and it looked like it might be working but ran out of time....I'll try again tonight and see.   cobus van lingen Member Username: cobb Post Number: 63 Registered: 01-2007 Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 02:08 am:    c'mon c'mon....any further news or progress...i cant wait to hear the outcome   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 45 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 08:51 am:    Not Good! At first it seemed that the "walking out" method was working but it wasn't. The shims I used ended up deforming the lower unit because of too much pressure. I'm giving up on it and am going to put the saw to it in the next day or so. But I have a couple of questions: I'm not sure what size motor I have....I don't think it's a shor shaft but where do I measure from? I'd like to pick up a new lower unit but want to be sure I have the right size/year for my motor. Will different engine sizes fit my 35? In other words, do I have to look for a 35 lower unit or will a 25, 30 or 40HP lower unit also fit? I have an '86 35HP.   JB Advanced Member Username: beckerjs Post Number: 844 Registered: 11-2005 Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 09:07 am:    I know the 35s and the 40 are the same from late 70 to late 80s. In 84 they started making the 4 cyl 40hp, thats when they called your engine a 35 instead of 40. They also changed the shape of the gear box, but the old style should fit. Don't buy anything yet, you still need to get the shaft out and check the ctankshaft splines. These engines are know for loosing the lower seal and bearing. This washes the lube off the shaft and you know the rest.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 46 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 09:49 am:    JB, Thansk for the heads up on the lower unit, I'll hold off on buying one for a while. But after I cut off the lower unit, will the lower housing of the motor (the part that houses the rest of the shaft and the exhaust housing) come off once I get the nuts off where it looks like it attaches under the head? I'm just wondering what I'm in for....   JB Advanced Member Username: beckerjs Post Number: 847 Registered: 11-2005 Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 10:25 am:    I don't see any reason to remove the powerhead from the exhaust housing. I would think you could wiggle the drive shaft, tap the drive shaft inward, or put a slide hammer on the shaft to remove it. The only reason for removal would be for overhaul of the engine. If you want to remove the power head, then yes remove all the lower nuts under the lower cover, remove flywheel and flip all the electronics fwd, no need to disconnect them just remove the fwd and aft mounting brackets. The powerhead will be stuck to the base, some additional force will be required. Its a pain to clean the gasket surface on the base plate, exhaust housing, and powerhead. I would skip this step if you don't need to. Look here if you want to look at parts diagram. http://www.usboatsupply.com/Mercury_Mercruiser_Parts_Catalog3a.php?mc=01. http://www.themarinedoctor.com/cgi-bin//YaBB.pl?num=1175964588 for transom length Edit, I need a piston for my parts engine if things go bad, haha   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 47 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Friday, February 29, 2008 - 07:14 am:    JB, I cut the lower unit off last night. To my surprise I don't see any rust where the shaft enters the powerhead. But that shaft is pretty solid......now what? I'm going to pick up a slide hammer on my way home from work but I'm not sure how this is going to work.....will I need to drill a hole in the side of the shaft to attach it? Or will I need to get a piece welded to the shaft?   JB Advanced Member Username: beckerjs Post Number: 852 Registered: 11-2005 Posted on Friday, February 29, 2008 - 08:59 am:    tap on it with a hammer, at the top of the shaft there is a spring loaded pin to preload the drive shaft, thus allowing a little free play inside the crank splines. It would be best if the top of the crankshaft was against something solid to avoid the crank, bearing, and flywheel from damage. Couple of taps and then the slide hammer, anyway you can attach it.   Brent Dambergs Member Username: brentle Post Number: 45 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Friday, February 29, 2008 - 03:29 pm:    Make sure you post some pics of the aftermath Andy i'm really curious to see as to what has caused this problem. Cheers.   JB Advanced Member Username: beckerjs Post Number: 853 Registered: 11-2005 Posted on Friday, February 29, 2008 - 03:37 pm:    years of neglect, thats why we say every other year on the water pump, not till it fails   Graham Lamb Senior Member Username: galamb Post Number: 2642 Registered: 05-2007 Posted on Friday, February 29, 2008 - 06:14 pm:    Yes, it's amazing what a 50 cent tube of Moly Lube will prevent - besides, what fun is an outboard if you don't occassionally tear it down   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 48 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Saturday, March 01, 2008 - 11:30 am:    I'll surely post once I get it apart but it's not looking too good right now. I cut off the lower unit and it is the drive shaft that is stuck. I lubed it up good with Kroil someone mentioned.....I also drilled a hole through the shaft about a 3/16" hole to which I fed a piece of steal cable through and clamped it to make a loop....to this loop I attached the come-along and hung it from the ceiling. I'm also able to attach a slide hammer but it's not helping much. So basically, the eninge is hanging in my basement by the shaft only.....and I've wedged a 2x4 between the motor housing and the come-along for more pressure.....but nothing yet, it's only been about 24 hours. I'll try to post a photo soon.   JB Advanced Member Username: beckerjs Post Number: 857 Registered: 11-2005 Posted on Saturday, March 01, 2008 - 12:03 pm:    when you use the slide hammer it needs to be attached firmly, the cable allows too much flex and give. I would beg borrow or steal a air hammer/rivet gun, put a bolt into the shaft and bang it out. Those big air chissel/hammers really pack a quick punch.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 49 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 07:20 am:    Yeah, I figured there would be too much give in the cable.....before I search for the air hammer, I had another idea.....I'm going to try putting a piece of 1" BLACK pipe over the shaft, then putting a bolt in the hole.....and using the pipe as a hammer, so rather than pulling on the shaft, I'll be "pushing" it off....but thanks for the heads up on the hammer. Stay tuned.....the saga continues.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 50 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2008 - 08:09 pm:    Okay, no luck with black pipe too tight inside the housing. Made a bridge out of angle iron and put a shackle on the shaft, pulled it with a muffler type clamp...deformed the shackle and the clamp but was able to put quite a bit of force on the shaft. Finally, put a hose to the intake pipe and started the motor.....let it run for quite a while, that shaft bounced around a little in there but didn't shake free. So, I re-installed my clamp/bridge. Motor runs Great! I'd hate to say it's over...... Question: Am I out of options? What do I do next? Spring is here!   Stubborn Tony Visitor Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 10:05 pm:    Andy, I feel your pain as I have the same issue with a 1986 Merc 35 outboard (serial A951897). Right now, I have the motor upside down saturating the drive shaft with PB Blaster. The emails on your motor have been helpful. I also disconnected the shift shaft coupler (under the carb) thinking that may help but no luck yet. We are still stuck tight. Mayber if we get one more, we could start a club? Did you price a lower unit yet? This motor is actually my neighbors and I am trying to help and keep the cost down. Thanks...Stubborn Tony   Brent Dambergs Member Username: brentle Post Number: 64 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Monday, March 24, 2008 - 09:53 am:    remove power head from mid section and belt the $%*&^ out of it.!!!   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 51 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 08:21 am:    Hey Stubborn Tony, I thought my link was dead. Sorry to hear you have the same issue, this stinks, usually it's a problem with getting the motor to start....not this time. I've got a good motor but it's useless. I'm going to try an impact hammer first, then as Brent says, I'm going to remove the powerhead try to remove it using heat or something. Hopefully Graham Lamb or JB have more suggestions....we'll see. Good luck with yours and let me know how you do.   Stubborn Tony Visitor Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 04:04 pm:    I'll keep you posted. Just tried banging it again (hammer/wooden block against cavitation plate) after it sat upside down for a few days in a PB Blaster bath. No luck. I have to go out of town for a few days, so I will flip it back over and re-dose the drive shaft with Blaster, and deal with it again when I am back in pocket. If we could get directly to the drive shaft and coupling...I think a combo of dry/ice, then heat might help break the bond? I appreciate the feedback and comments from all. Tony   Brent Dambergs Member Username: brentle Post Number: 71 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 05:44 am:    Andy i think if you remove the power head you will see the drive shaft at the entry point to the bottom of the crank. Got any mates with an oxy acetaline kit? some extreme heat to the drive shaft as it enters the crank should be enough to either melt burn any rust etc. or even expand the seized part enough to belt it off. Remember you have already cut off the lower or did you actually CUT IT OFF AT THE MIDSECTION?? unit, remove the cover around the bottom of the cowling undo the (i think 6 or 8 )nuts and the top should separate from the midsection taking the remainder of the drive shaft with it. the midsection gaskets are replacable mind you I just made my own from ACL Gasket paper and they work a treat. Keep us posted !!   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 52 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 08:14 am:    Tony, heat would probably break the bond but just getting to it is the issue, especially if the lower unit is still attached. Brent, Yes I did cut the lower unit off, right through the drive shaft at the water pump. I don't know how I'll remove the nuts that hold the housing at the cowling, the nuts are rusted and impossible to get an extractor on, there isn't any room. I purchased an air hammer last night so now I'm working on rigging up a system of connecting it to the drive shaft so I can try hammering it off. I'll let you know how I make out but I'm not to optomistic at this point. I may have to resort to taking the powerhead off somehow.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 53 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 08:35 am:    NO LUCK with the air hammer. I gave up after about twenty minutes of hammering away at the shaft. Looks like plan "B"; remove the powerhead. Unless anyone has any more suggestions...... Come on, give me your   Graham Lamb Senior Member Username: galamb Post Number: 2849 Registered: 05-2007 Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 08:48 am:    You are persistent if nothing else Dynamite?   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 54 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 11:19 am:    Hmmmmm, now that's an interesting option.   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 55 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 11:23 am:    You know what else crossed my mind? What if I somehow created a joint between the end of the drive shaft and a modified lower unit? In other words, creat a universal joint on the end of the drive shaft with a mating end on the lower unit with a cut drive shaft......and just leave the seized drive shaft in place.....at least I'd have a motor to use. Right now all I have is exhaust pressure as propuslion.   Graham Lamb Senior Member Username: galamb Post Number: 2851 Registered: 05-2007 Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 04:57 pm:    Andy, a joint already exists. If you install an extension kit on a (normal) motor to extend the shaft from short to long, a stub shaft simply inserts into the end of the existing shaft to make up the extra 5 inches. I am unaware of anyone who has had the end of a "stuck shaft" machined to allow something such as that, but it may be possible (?????)   Brent Dambergs Member Username: brentle Post Number: 73 Registered: 01-2008 Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 04:11 am:    Use the air hammer to hack off the nuts holding the power head on the midsection. (as they are all rusted you said)Once you got it off you should be able to get a better look at it. obviously belting it down away from the engine is not working so once off try belting it side ways both ways inwards outwards everyway possible. Dont be scared to give it a hrad time as the shaft is useless to you anyway.h   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 56 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 11:56 am:    Graham, That's interesting about the extension.....so, why wouldn't Outboards be designed with a separate shaft from the powerhead to the lower unit? Seems like it would save money in the long run.....they could stock two shaft lengths and make one lower unit without a long shaft sticking out of it which would save on shipping those larger crates.....I know balance may be an issue but.... Thanks Brent, I've never owned an air hammer before so I'm a little inexperenced at what can be done with one. I'll give it a shot and let you know.   JB Advanced Member Username: beckerjs Post Number: 880 Registered: 11-2005 Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 12:39 pm:    save the air hammer for now. post a pic of what nuts you are talking about. Did you try to hammer the drive shaft in towards the powerhead, then slide hammer it out? Try forcing the drive shaft CCW with vise grip and hammer? Time to start a new thread   Andy Member Username: abl Post Number: 58 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 05:58 pm:    Started a new thread. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12479/149041.shtml

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