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Cleaning Looper Carbs

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Johnson Evinrude Outboard » Archive through December 02, 2009 » Cleaning Looper Carbs « Previous Next »

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Martin Johnson
Member
Username: martino1

Post Number: 39
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 06:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

1990 3.0L OMC SeaDrive (225 Johnson). Has plastic carburetors. Found the 4 jets in the carb and bowl to clean. Question is, is that all? Are there any passages or openings in the throttle body (still attached to engine) that are normally cleaned as part of the carb cleaning process? This engine has been run maybe three times in 5 years, yet carbs are perfectly clean, no sign of trash, gunk, varnish--did the StaBil I added really do that?
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 4388
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 06:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Take an aerosol can of carb cleaner and blow into the two holes for low and intermediate in the throttle body. You should then have a clean spray getting out of the two holes behind the throttle plates.
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Martin Johnson
Member
Username: martino1

Post Number: 41
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 11:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks Mr. R!
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nicknack2
Advanced Member
Username: nicknack2

Post Number: 250
Registered: 08-2008
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

this is a 6 cylinder right???
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jamie campbell
Advanced Member
Username: outboard_doctor

Post Number: 769
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 09:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Yes its a 6cyl and I agree carby cleaner with a tube in the nozzel is great for checking flow through carby passages
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Martin Johnson
Member
Username: martino1

Post Number: 42
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Cleaned starboard engine carbs. I thought it ran OK, until I noticed that the timing cam roller and the alignment mark for it do not line up at idle. Now I don't think it sounds as good as it should! Additionally, the expansion link knob looks like it is turned in almost all the way. That doesn't look normal either. Guess it is time to go through the sync/link procedures.
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 4393
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 12:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hopefully you have the original OMC manual, the only one to be used on that engine!
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Doug Selbee
Advanced Member
Username: daselbee

Post Number: 474
Registered: 08-2008
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 08:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Make sure the cam roller "outer layer" is not cracked and broken off. This will result in a roller that is smaller in diameter than it should be. The roller has a black plastic inner hub, and has a clear outer layer that breaks often. The roller is 7/16" in diameter if not broken. Could be why the marks don't line up for you......
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Martin Johnson
Member
Username: martino1

Post Number: 43
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Cam roller? That must be the pile of amber dust I found at the base of that inner sleeve. Replaced it, thanks! Idle was way off, timing was way off. It actually idles now! I'm going to try the Reeves method for checking the WOT timing. Then its on the the power steering! SeaDrives are fun, if you have enough brewskie.

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