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Just bought 96 v4 90 hp, need advice ...

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Johnson Evinrude Outboard » Just bought 96 v4 90 hp, need advice ...please « Previous Next »

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xavier jean
New member
Username: xjs1

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2009
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 05:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

hi everybody, just purchased my new boat and would like to try it out tomorow but dont even know what oil ratio i have to add to the petrol!!!!!!is obv a 2 stroke but had a 15hp suzuki that only needed 100/1, is it the same with my evinrude? thank heaps in advance
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Timothy Befera
Member
Username: guido2

Post Number: 84
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hi, my advice is Amsoil synthetic pre-mix 100:1. Use only non oxy fuel (no ethanol). This is about the finest 2 cycle lubricant available and has been for the last 25 years. It is about $5 per quart and that will mix you up about 25 gallons of fuel. Don't forget to check lower unit lube for signs of water before you go out too. Take care Tim
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Timothy Befera
Member
Username: guido2

Post Number: 85
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 12:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Oh....almost forgot......'g day mate! I've been through Queensland and I loved it.....beautiful country and beautiful folks!
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Tim Lyden
Member
Username: tal55lyd

Post Number: 13
Registered: 11-2007
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Is your 90 hp a VRO oil injected? my is, johnson are 50 to 1 oil mix
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xavier jean
New member
Username: xjs1

Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2009
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 03:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

thanks a million timothy,and yeah, we dont mind so much living in QLD...he he.
it is a VRO, though the direct injection has been disconnected by previous owner, said he would rather mix himself.thanks for all the great help!!!!!
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jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine

Post Number: 5077
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 07:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

u need to run it,..at 50/1..no matter ur choice of oil...
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Timothy Befera
Member
Username: guido2

Post Number: 87
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 10:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Info on the way.
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Timothy Befera
Member
Username: guido2

Post Number: 88
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The Amsoil factory is 10 miles from me and I am personal friends with owner and founder Al Amatuzio. He was a jet fighter pilot and chemist. He perfected synthetic lubricants before even Mobile. I have used this 2 cycle product for 25 years without one single failure. They offer a diluted/modified version as 2 cycle "injector oil" with a very consistent viscosity. It is adjusted to run with injection systems which are regulated to about 50:1. VRO's have destroyed many outboards over the years. Oil injection is regulated to 50:1 because operators may run any oil they wish. Getting back to the 100:1 pre-mix AMSOIL, this is the finest 2 cycle lube
on the market.........it can't even be called oil. I operate 2 tourist camps in remote NW Ontario Canada and mix @ 100:1 with all outboards manufactured after the mid 80's and 64:1 with prior years to the mid 50's. Really vintage motors I run @ 50:1. Amsoil has a tech department that will examine any failures if you suspect the lube has failed. However, I have only turned in one blown chain saw and that was an 041 AV Stihl with about a Zillion hours on it. The tech department showed me that it had been running with a cracked piston for years..........I had bought it used about 6 years before. They directed me to an aftermarket piston/jug made in Italy. I rebuilt the top end and it still runs super today. Original crankshaft and rod. That was 28 years ago. I operate a successful firewood business here in Duluth MN and I dice up over 200 loggers cords per year. The old 041 is still one of my favorite saws and can almost keep up with my new 660 MS. Pls check us out......do a Goggle search for "firewood Duluth MN USA" and you will find us there @ Raquel and Tim's Timber. I don't sell Amsoil.......I'm "sold on it". Kindest regards, Tim Befera
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Timothy Befera
Member
Username: guido2

Post Number: 89
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 10:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Sorry for typo error........Amsoil 2 stroke 100% synthetic has been in all my equipment for over 30 years now. I bought the 041 in the mid 70's and ran Amsoil from the start. I mix 2oz per gallon or 64:1 in all my saws. However when mixing only 1 gallon be fairly careful of your measure. For most outboards I mix 5 or 6 gallons at a time. Tim
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xavier jean
New member
Username: xjs1

Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2009
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

thanks heaps for all the great advice, took it out for the first time yesterday and ran like a dream!!!!
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Tim Lyden
Member
Username: tal55lyd

Post Number: 22
Registered: 11-2007
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

johnson 90 hp are 50/1 oil mix 100/1 could burn up motor Tim
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jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine

Post Number: 5089
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html
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jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine

Post Number: 5090
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

i am sure that amsoil is super duper fantastic stuff....however,...pre-fuel-injected outboards,..will survive best,on 50/1...100% synthetic oil.......the above link explains the progression of the VRO ...just fyi..
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Dcramer
Advanced Member
Username: dcramer

Post Number: 189
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Some of the race boys over on scream & fly have been reporting issues with amsoil products. You can search over there if you are interested in learning more.

Like JWB says 50:1 on whatever you choose. I choose Evinrude XD50
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Timothy Befera
Member
Username: guido2

Post Number: 91
Registered: 07-2009


Posted on Wednesday, November 04, 2009 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I agree, great stuff....thanks. Talking about VRO, however I see no reference to alcohol effects. The replacement or later versions VRO's had "alcohol resistant" lables. Here in MN we have had Ethanol served to us for years and delicate VRO,s have been damaged directly or indirectly by this fuel. Alcohol will suspend its own weight in water and in the humid environments that outboards operate that means undetected fuel infection. As a result, VRO's can not only be damaged, but can confuse the variable mixing ratio. What I am saying is......they work great.......in a "perfect world". Well the problem is that there is just too much to go wrong when you consider the average boat owner or operator, then add overengineering. Sure VRO's have taken the blame wrongly in some cases. But @ 150:1......there is simply no room for error, especially with 50:1 injector oil. In northern regions and Canada where we are still operating VRO outboards at or below 0 degrees centigrade, oil viscosity is modified outside safe parameters. Oil in external tank, especially if infected with moisture will not transfer effectively to the pump. This is more critical at idling speeds where the VRO is attempting a 100:1 mixture or even as lean as 150:1. Ok.....maybe you see my point.
If you want to check out Amsoil go to amsoil.com and then check out the motorsports oils specifying ATP or ATO for the 100:1 premixers. They are now called "Scepter", so not to be confused with other 50:1 product lines.
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Phil Kicksee
Member
Username: red_goat

Post Number: 67
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 10:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I run 100 to 1 petro canada oil and high test gas in both of mine with 0 problems!
They just run soo good and dont smoke much that way.
If I get in a fix where I cant get that oil and have to get walmart or gas station oil I mix that at 50 to 1 just to be safe.
when we used to race snowmobiles we always mixed at 100 to 1 as well.
There is deffinately some issues with the spamsoil in the snowmobile world!
Maybe its the cold but it dont work well on them!
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jamie campbell
Advanced Member
Username: outboard_doctor

Post Number: 714
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Friday, November 06, 2009 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The factory says 50:1 if the engineers thought it ran better, lasted longer and was the best choice they would state 100:1 but they dont.
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Phil Kicksee
Member
Username: red_goat

Post Number: 69
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Friday, November 06, 2009 - 02:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The engineers say 50 to 1 for cheap users using cheap oil and cheap gas!
Good oil and high test gas is a proven winner in both racing and endurance.
A 2 stroke could probably run with a 200 to 1 mix!
Ever notice how when guys forget to mix oil in that they can run about a half tank of gas before the engine quits?
Let me see here at 4500 rpm for what an hour?
That would be about 270,000 piston strokes!
Also remember most engine failures are a result of poor low octane fuel mostly from old gas etc.
Oil has no octane value.
The more of it you add with your gas the less octane the engine gets.
oil also coats the combustion chamber with ash deposits which can glow red and cause preignition, another engine killer.
Factories set both oil and fuel mixtures on the rich side to avoid warranty claims from guys that pour the cheapest crap they can find into the motor.
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Timothy Befera
Member
Username: guido2

Post Number: 92
Registered: 07-2009


Posted on Friday, November 06, 2009 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Amen, brother. Enginneers are far from perfect either. Just look at all the refinements they've done to VRO's over the years. The originals were failures.
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jamie campbell
Advanced Member
Username: outboard_doctor

Post Number: 717
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 03:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

"NMMA TC-W3 Lubricants are a major improvement over TCWII fluids, both
in water-cooled and air-coolde applications. With the introduction of
the new TC-W3 additives, the additive companies, that once were
skepitical of performance quality of TC-WII oils generally marketed
for air-cooled applications, are now confident of adequate air-cooled,
two-cycle engine protection, using their approved TC-W3 formulas.
Therefore a true "Universal" two-cycle lubricant is now available
UNTIL!! "JASO" and "GLOBAL" fluids are required."

On the issue of brand X being better than brand Y and the engine maker
that claims only their brand Z TCW3 oil can be used in their
respective engines. TCW3 oil in itself is a specific formula. If the
Oil lable states it is a TCW3 with an approval code of 3-15020 located
above, below, or on either side of the TCW3 logo, it is the aproved
oil for use this year in all outboard engines.

Is one Brand of TCW3 coded 3-15020 better than the other. Yea, the one
with the lower price is better cause it leaves more of the green stuff
in your pocket where it belongs and not turned into excess profits for
the engine makers.

According to GOA company, North Coast Oil, Inc. ST Paul, MN. If you
use TCW3 coded 3-15020 all engine makers must honor any warranty
claims without regard to the brand of TCW3 oil used in the engine.

In Sumary, I use TCW3 oil coded 3-15020 sold directely by oil
companies. I know I am paying a fair price for an approved product
and not contributing to unearned profits the engine makers try to
make.
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 4345
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 04:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

My guess is that this link should give the most answers about the TCW3 (and even II) oils:
http://www.nmma.org/certification/programs/oils/
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Phil Kicksee
Member
Username: red_goat

Post Number: 71
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 11:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

That is a good read Morten!
I notice they do their testing at 100 to 1 ratios except for a short 50 to 1 breakin period.
They also say that each oil maker uses their own different formulas and base stocks.
The bottom line is in order to get the sticker they all have to pass certain minimum standards.
For my own peace of mind I will still pay more to buy the synthetic formulas for my engines!
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carl spillman
Advanced Member
Username: papyson

Post Number: 289
Registered: 09-2006
Posted on Sunday, November 08, 2009 - 05:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

when they start giving engines away i will tinker with all the magic stuff....until then i will use good gas and good oil as recommended by the manufacturer....
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Dcramer
Advanced Member
Username: dcramer

Post Number: 191
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Sunday, November 08, 2009 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Interesting how Amsoil isn't on their list of TC-W3 certified oils
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Phil Kicksee
Member
Username: red_goat

Post Number: 72
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I am going to start a new thread on this under miscellaneous!
This should be talked about!

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