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1984 8HP Water Pump Drive Pin

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Jack Zoldak
New member
Username: jack1

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have a 1984 Evinrude 8HP E8RCRM that was given to me with water in the gearcase. I purchased the parts I needed to repair and replaced them also rebuilding the water pump. My problem is I can’t place the pin that goes between the water pump impeller and the drive shaft because I can’t get the drive shaft out. The book I have, which is a 1973 – 1990 multi motor manual, seems to indicate that the drive shaft is connected to the motor with only a spline and can be pulled straight out through the midsection, inserted through the water pump and into the gearcase. Then the whole assembly reattached to the midsection with the drive shaft fitting back into the spline. Is this correct or is there something else holding the drive shaft to the motor? If it is correct and the drive shaft is simply stuck, how to I get it free?
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jamie campbell
Advanced Member
Username: outboard_doctor

Post Number: 695
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 03:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Zack did the leg come off leaving the drive shaft stuck in the powwer head?
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VicS
Advanced Member
Username: vics

Post Number: 740
Registered: 05-2008


Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 05:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Yes the shaft should just pull out of the crankshaft splines. I reckon yours is stuck/rusted in

Also pulls out of the gearcase once the water pump is removed. Its only the impeller pin that stops it puling out of the gearcase normally. I guess you have damaged the pump/impeller housings getting it apart.

Exactly the same as my 6hp!

When you have sorted it out and are rebuilding it lightly grease the splines so that you can get it apart more easily next time.
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jamie campbell
Advanced Member
Username: outboard_doctor

Post Number: 702
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 06:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Sit the outboard on its flywheel with the driveshaft pointing in the air and spray penetrene or wd40 onto the shaft and let it run into the driveshaft splines...the next day turn it upright and place some emery tape around the driveshaft to protect it and clamp the shaft with vise grips...use a hammer to tap on the vise grips to knock out the shaft
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Jack Zoldak
New member
Username: jack1

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I turned the motor on the flywheel and soaked it. I was finally able to get the drive shaft loose. It came out all caked up with a bunch of rusty grime in the spline grooves. The diveshaft cleaned up nicely. I reassembled the motor and everything was looking good. It ran great in the barrel. I place the motor on my 12ft semi-v and headed to the river to boat test. The motor started fine. I put it in gear and began to slowly apply throttle. When I got to about 50% the boat was still pushing a lot of water and had not yet leveled out when I heard a bang from the motor. The prop stopped turning as well as the water pump. The engine was still running fine. The drive shaft appears to be slipping at the spline. Does the drive shaft plug directly into the crankshaft? Was all that caked up grime part of a deteriorating crankshaft? Will I need a new crankshaft? Any advise anyone?
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VicS
Advanced Member
Username: vics

Post Number: 748
Registered: 05-2008


Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 02:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Yes the drive shaft plugs directly into the crankshaft.
Only inspection will reveal what has failed.
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jamie campbell
Advanced Member
Username: outboard_doctor

Post Number: 730
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Jack drop the leg and check the shaft it maybe broken? but if the crankshaft splines rusted away the driveshaft splines should be full of rusty gunk etc
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Jack Zoldak
New member
Username: jack1

Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 11:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thank you for your help. I did get a bunch of rusty gunk in the drive shaft splines. I guess the next step would be to remove the top end and inspect the crankshaft. Do I need to remove the gear head first? I don't think the drive shaft broke. When I turn the prop by hand I can here a rubbing noise near where the drive shaft and crank shaft meet.
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jamie campbell
Advanced Member
Username: outboard_doctor

Post Number: 738
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 11:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The power head will come off complete
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VicS
Advanced Member
Username: vics

Post Number: 749
Registered: 05-2008


Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 01:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

" Do I need to remove the gear head first? "

Yes I think so I found I had to rock the power-head forwards and backwards to break the joint. You need the shaft, shift rod and water tube free to do that.

You wont be able to line up the water tube when you rebuild if the gearcase is already in place, so it'll have to come off again at some stage

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