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1978 Evinrude 35

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Collector Inspector
Member
Username: collector_inspector

Post Number: 6
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Friday, October 23, 2009 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I just upgraded to Electric Start from basic pull the string and go.

I adjusted everything as have proper OEM manual but a question?

Am I correct in that with a powerpack #2, I can set the maximum advance while turning over full throttle with a timing light with the starter?

It has lost its "Sting" top end since I did this.

Else really smooth.

Advice appreciated, Regards, Bruce.
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david real
Advanced Member
Username: david_r

Post Number: 977
Registered: 07-2008


Posted on Friday, October 23, 2009 - 02:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

here is a method by joe reeves.


(Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperature.

The full spark advance can be adjusted without have the engine running at near full throttle as follows.

To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

Rig a spark tester and have the gap set to 7/16". Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for.

I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition componets, the engine gains the extra 4°.

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.

No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.

Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.
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Collector Inspector
Member
Username: collector_inspector

Post Number: 7
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 07:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Well, I do not think that 1978 powerpack 2 has that facility. Just plain Old CDI.

Anyone else want to help?

Regards

B
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jamie campbell
Advanced Member
Username: outboard_doctor

Post Number: 688
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 03:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

You can set the timing as described above..i suppose your motor doesnt have ingear start protection if not it is very easy to check
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Collector Inspector
Member
Username: collector_inspector

Post Number: 8
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 03:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks for that Jamie. I have wired up and added an in gear lockout switch, but disconnected it for spinning over on the starter to check advance.

Maybe the extra weight of cabling, battery and box, starter motor could add up to the same weight as an extra 20 litres of fuel. Maybe that is why the boat is slower maybe. 35Hp on 3.9m tinny is fairly a good power to weight but, even with the above. If I have an extra tank previously, it did not make any difference that I could observe then.

Hmmm, still something not right I feel.

I will recheck all adjustments again.

Regards

B
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Collector Inspector
Member
Username: collector_inspector

Post Number: 9
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 04:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I did something else while adding the electric start in that I de-carbonised the exhaust manifold.

It was all original, never been apart. The previous owner was proud to tell me he ran a 25:1 mix since he had it from new.

Sure looked like it, totally clogged up it was.

When I bought it I replaced head gasket after checking bores and pistons which were spot on but neglected the manifold.

Maybe the Old Dear is having a hissy fit now it breaths better?

Just though to mention that.

Bruce.
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 4309
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 04:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Double check the stopper on the link between carb and ignition.
Give full throttle (in gear) engine not running, and adjust the stopper so the carb opens 99,9%, not more!
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Collector Inspector
Member
Username: collector_inspector

Post Number: 11
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 04:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

It does have marks where it was further forward on the linkage at some stage. I noticed those marks before I did the change over....... But after the changes, my adjustment is real close to where it was.........Hmmmmm, thanks for that Morten.

The tiller throttle is one tooth out on the gears but has always been like that. Maybe I will correct that eh?

I think I will start from scratch again. Maybe I had Beer Goggles on.

Regards

Bruce.
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Collector Inspector
Member
Username: collector_inspector

Post Number: 12
Registered: 04-2009


Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 06:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp93/collectorinspector/27062009198.jpg

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp93/collectorinspector/27062009199.jpg

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp93/collectorinspector/DSC03064.jpg

Regards

B
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Collector Inspector
Member
Username: collector_inspector

Post Number: 22
Registered: 04-2009


Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 03:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Morten, You Wrote..."Double check the stopper on the link between carb and ignition.
Give full throttle (in gear) engine not running, and adjust the stopper so the carb opens 99,9%, not more!"

I used the remote control throttle lever to get adjustment.

WRONG!

The spring on the advance plate got overwound thus putting apparent carb position in LAG, behind ignition when adjusted........

Use Tiller throttle, line it up and WOW!

Then service the remote control box to suit!

Done Well Son!

Thanks for making me THINK!

Regards

B
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 4397
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 03:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

At least you got it working again!
Just back from getting a Mercury working again, had to go to the Merc forum to get some info that did the trick.
We all learn here and there.
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Collector Inspector
Member
Username: collector_inspector

Post Number: 23
Registered: 04-2009


Posted on Saturday, December 19, 2009 - 12:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

AN UPDATE!

I had my local dealer check my efforts as per above, setting WOT Timing.

I was absolutely SPOT ON! with my method of timing light and spinning over with the starter motor!

How cool is that then......

So, if anyone wants to know, PowerPac II can be done at home with no issues.

Have a safe festive season and prosperous New Year Everyone!

B

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