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| Console mounted kill switch, 97 200 t... |
| Author |
Message |
    
wayne prosser
Member
Username: pops86
Post Number: 10
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2009 - 11:13 am: | 
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Gentlemen, I have used the search feature to try to find an answer to my question, but did not get what I need, so here goes.
I replaced my kill switch, but it still does the same thing, so I am not sure if it is normal or not.
As I trailered the boat yesterday, I knocked the clip off, and the engine kept running, even goosing it to move the boat up the trailer. the engine should have died at that point right?
When the clip is applied should it push the switch "in" slightly in order to make up? I have been having a problem with my plugs being wet everytime I have checked them since I have had the boat. I do not want to go into my carbs until I am satisfied my kill switch is not the problem.
Ya'll staighten me out!!!!! Thanks |
Tony Delio
Senior Member
Username: tonyob
Post Number: 1638
Registered: 05-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2009 - 05:06 pm: |
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The engine should have died. Either the kill switch is not grounding properly or the power pack is faulty. Find the black\yellow stripe wire at the power pack. Disconnect the two wire plug and see if the black/yellow wire from the harness plug grounds out when the ignition switch is in the on position and the clip is off the kill switch. If it does ground out the pack is probably faulty. |
jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine
Post Number: 5065
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2009 - 08:38 pm: |
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it could also be,..the ign switch,no longer 'pops' out,..effectively killing the eng via switch. |
wayne prosser
Member
Username: pops86
Post Number: 11
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Friday, October 23, 2009 - 09:14 am: |
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Thanks gentlemen, The switch is new, and appears to "pop" out properly. The new switch behaves just like the old one, so most likely I replaced a good switch.
I will definitely check out the wiring as tony suggested.
Thanks much will let ya'll know. |
wayne prosser
Member
Username: pops86
Post Number: 12
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 12:32 pm: |
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I had time to do the diagnostic as suggested by Tony. By disconnecting the black/yellow stripe connector by the power pack, and connecting my volt ohmmeter from the p pack side to ground, I do not read any voltage under and scenario--ign on/off, clip on/off, etc.
If I understood correctly the p pack should have sent ignition voltage (12), to ground to kill the engine with the clip off?
Are the Mallory, and CDI p packs good choices, it seems like a large difference in price on the site parts store.
Thanks, again!! |
Doug Selbee
Advanced Member
Username: daselbee
Post Number: 472
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 12:59 pm: |
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Nope. Not correct.
Connect one meter lead to the HARNESS side of the black/yellow wire, with the other lead to engine ground, and set it for ohms/continuity testing. The meter should read zero ohms when key is off or when lanyard is pulled. If it reads OPEN (infinite) then you have a problem from the key switch to the powerpack on the black/yellow circuit. Look for corrosion in the harness connections......
But those Deutch connectors are pretty good....
Look for miswired switch.
If you want to go further, hook a length of test wire to the black/yellow wire (PACK SIDE THIS TIME) and start the motor. Ground the other end of the test wire to the engine block and the engine should stop. If it does NOT stop, you have a bad pack.
Do not try to ground to a painted surface of the block...only ground to bare metal. |
wayne prosser
Member
Username: pops86
Post Number: 13
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 06:14 pm: |
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Thank you for correcting me, electronics is not my forte'.
I tested the harness side, and got infinite resistence key off, and lanyard pulled. Also, I tried the test wire to the pack side, and grounded with the engine running. The wire would only slow the motor down, it would not kill it.
I am going to make sure the new switch is wired up correctly also.
Thanks EVERYONE, for your help!!! |
Doug Selbee
Advanced Member
Username: daselbee
Post Number: 473
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 08:53 pm: |
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Wayne...I gotta say...that is very very odd.
I NEVER heard of the engine slowing down when the black/yel wire at the pack side is grounded. On an engine with two packs...yes maybe, but you should have only one pack.
And you have described a situation where, with two failure modes possible, bad pack and open to ground black\yellow kill wire...well you have described an issue where BOTH failure modes are bad....and I find that very very odd.
I just do not want you replacing a power pack when it may be unnecessary.
Tell you what...get the wiring straightened out first. That harness-side black\yellow MUST be grounded (engine or batt negative for all you purists) when key off or lanyard pulled. Get that correct first, then have a look at the pack if still necessary. That way it won't cost anything initially.
One other thing...there is a black ground wire that exits the pack out the rear starboard corner area, and loops up to attach to the rear mounting stud for pack ground. Make sure that wire is securely grounded.. |
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