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Head Gasket Blown? Evinrude Ocean Pro...

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Johnson Evinrude Outboard » Archive through July 08, 2009 » Head Gasket Blown? Evinrude Ocean Pro 150 « Previous Next »

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Mike Falvey
Member
Username: hkmike1

Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I Have a 1996 Evinrude Ocean Pro 150 that I ran for about 5 minutes....Then Steam was blowing out of the tell tale along with a little water. I just put a new water pump in and new thermostats. The hot horn did not go off but it did seem a little hot. Could this be a blown head gasket? If it is how can I tell which head? Any help wold be greatly appreciated.
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Joe Reeves
Senior Member
Username: joereeves

Post Number: 7575
Registered: 02-2001


Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The starting point would be to remove the spark plugs, examine them for any differences between them and make a note as to what cylinder they came out of.

Then check the compression on all cylinders. What are the readings?
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Mike Falvey
Member
Username: hkmike1

Post Number: 6
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Joe,
The plugs all look about the same. Two are a little darker than others. The compression is 80 to 85 lbs. on each cylinder. Probably should be higher but the engine has around 800 hours. I ran it for about the same amount of time and steam came out again and this time the horn went off. Any Thoughts?
Mike
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Joe Reeves
Senior Member
Username: joereeves

Post Number: 7579
Registered: 02-2001


Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 10:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The compression is usually 5 psi or so higher than that BUT various gauges do read differently. Doesn't sound like a blown head gasket, and if it were, there should be some kind of water traces on a spark plug or two.

I would drop the lower unit and dismantle the water pump for inspection. It's posible that when the water tube was entering the grommet of the water pump housing, that it hit the grommet wrong and folded it over, effectively creating a shut off valve.
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 3882
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 11:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If a V6-6o degree, Your engine does not have head gaskets but O-rings. One important thing on these engines is the contact surface between the heads and the cylinder. If not pure metal contact, the heads will run hot. Suggest You take down the heads, clean the surfaces, install new O-rings. However double check the pump as per Joe's suggestion.
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Mike Falvey
Member
Username: hkmike1

Post Number: 7
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Joe,
I have been told that better gauges are more accurate. Mine is a newer one from Sears...I'm sure it's Chinese. It does have a really strong stream coming out, so I assume that there's no obstruction of water. Can I run it with the thermostats out to see if that changes anything?
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Mike Falvey
Member
Username: hkmike1

Post Number: 8
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 11:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Morten,
Thanks again for your help. It is a 60 degree V-6. I just recently learned that it has o-rings instead of a gasket on another forum. I thought I saw gasket maker material squeezing out of where the head meets the block. I have not run the engine for any length of time until now. Maybe the previous owner had a mechanic that used gasket maker, I'll check that. Is there anything special that I need to know before pulling the head off? I have a manual that has a lot of good information.
Mike
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 3883
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 12:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

In addition to the O-rings, a very THIN string of GM silicone should be put around the water passages between head and block. That might be the 'black' You are seeing. What is important is to keep as much as possible metal-to-metal contact between the head and block.
Are You running the engine on muffs or in barrel?
If on muffs, that might be You problem! At a minimum You need a muff with two-side entry!
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Joe Reeves
Senior Member
Username: joereeves

Post Number: 7583
Registered: 02-2001


Posted on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 09:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Temporarily removing the thermostats really isn't going to tell you anything. All that would do is simply reduce any back pressure against the water pump flow..... and if that pump is failing for any reason, the resulting increase in water flow due to the reduction of back pressure would be misleading.

As mentioned previously, I'd double check that water pump installation if for no other reason, to eliminate that one possibility.
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 3888
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 10:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

And to add to Joe's comment above, removing the thermostats will remove the water cooling from Your regulator as well risking that one to melt down!
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Joe Reeves
Senior Member
Username: joereeves

Post Number: 7585
Registered: 02-2001


Posted on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Good one Morten. That thought never crossed my mind.
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 3889
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Joe:
Was not quite sure if I should mention it in case You had some left in Your stock!
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Mike Falvey
Member
Username: hkmike1

Post Number: 9
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I thought that temporarily removing the thermostats might flush out any "junk" that may be stuck inside behind the them... possibly blocking water flow. I did see some small pieces of shell inside when I took out the old thermostats, as this boat has spent its whole life in Saltwater. I will re-check the water pump, but it does have a pretty strong stream coming out. Also... I did run it in a tank this morning to see if it made any difference, but it still overheated (was a lot quieter to stand next to though!!) I guess I'll pull the gearcase in the morning to see what's up.
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 3894
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Sunday, July 05, 2009 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If You just want to flush the engine, it is an adapter available that You temporary put in the place of the tell-tale nipple. Then hook up a garden hose and flush. No need to run engine. If doing like this, You may remove the thermostats.
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Mike Falvey
Member
Username: hkmike1

Post Number: 10
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Sunday, July 05, 2009 - 01:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Problem Solved for anyone interested!! It was wrong thermostats. I was told by Evinrude to use the ones for my "E" suffix model number motor. 437090 was what I got. Not sure of the correct number. I took them out and compared them to the olds ones and they were a little longer...less then 1/16, also didn't have a notch in the top where the water comes through. Cleaned old ones with small wire wheel, works perfect....finally I'll be on the water

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