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1954 johnsonseahorse 10

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Johnson Evinrude Outboard » Archive through October 12, 2008 » 1954 johnsonseahorse 10 « Previous Next »

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john magnuson
Member
Username: sunliner

Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2008
Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2008 - 04:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Oooops.I blew it. I forgot to count the # of turns in before removing the idle jet soooo can you tell me the # of turns out the idle jet should be to sart with?
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VicS
Advanced Member
Username: vics

Post Number: 225
Registered: 05-2008


Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2008 - 09:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Later models are 1½ turns but IIRC older ones are less possibly ¾, maybe 1.

Try it at ¾

Set the high speed one, if its adjustable, first then set the idle one at the lowest posible speed.

Joe Reeves adjustment procedures:
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
--------------------------------------------------
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
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corydean
Visitor
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 05:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

need torque specs on my 1954 johnson 10hp QD-15.. for the following 1. Head bolts? and 2. top nut that hold the flywheel over the magneto... can anyone help me out... thanks
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Paul Farnsworth
Advanced Member
Username: farnsp

Post Number: 191
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 06:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Flywheel Nut- 40-45 ft lbs

Head Bolts- 96-120 in lbs
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sam brigman
Member
Username: sambrigman

Post Number: 5
Registered: 08-2008
Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Old 50's model 10hp johnson dual line gas. engine starts fine, runs a few seconds and goes dead. Bowl is full bulb is hard.I took carb apart, it is clean looks new inside and out! I don't know how this air pressure tank works, but I think that could be problem? Any Ideas anybody???
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Wayne Rowlinson
Advanced Member
Username: winman99

Post Number: 144
Registered: 07-2006


Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If it has a pressure tank (which a 50's 10 Johnson would have unless converted), there should be no bulb. There should be a plunger on the tank. It does sound like it's starving for fuel. If it is a pressure tank, it will have 2 lines going from the tank to the engine, one so the engine can pump air into the tank, the other for the fuel to travel to the carb. You need to make sure the cap is screwed tight so air doesn't leak out the top or there won't be any pressure to push the gas back to the carb.
Do you have a model number for the motor?
For future reference, you should create a new thread when you have a new question.
Good luck.

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