60ESL70D Safety Switch issues...

Author Message   Niel Balestrieri New member Username: penalty96 Post Number: 1 Registered: 05-2008 Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 11:54 am:    have a 60ESL70D Evinrude. There is a little black box with 2 leads mounted on teh Engine Block top which I'm told is a safety switch. Have left lead connected. But right lead has no wire to it. Any thoughts on where it goes... I tried looking in teh Manual but it doesn't mention anything. COuld this be keeping teh engine from starting?   Joe Reeves Senior Member Username: joereeves Post Number: 6090 Registered: 02-2001 Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 12:08 pm:    It goes nowhere. The switch is self grounding so that the operation of the switch button completes tha circuit. The additional terminal on that model is simply so that the lead in wire can be attached to either side. When time permits, visit my eBay store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store   Niel Balestrieri New member Username: penalty96 Post Number: 2 Registered: 05-2008 Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 12:10 pm:    Thanks Joe, Trying to figure that one out for a while. I'm new to this boating and engine repair thing. Having trouble getting the engine to run, so I'm trying every thing. It's spits and pops but doesn't stay on thought it would be some electrical issues. Any thoughts??   ikia Visitor Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 12:26 pm:    Check point gap,clean the cap and rotor, check anti reversing spring, check / test the distributor cap and rotor.Replace the rubber boots at the cap.Don't know where the parts are? ---look them up on ----shop.evinrude.com-----   Joe Reeves Senior Member Username: joereeves Post Number: 6092 Registered: 02-2001 Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 12:29 pm:    Model 60ESL70D is a 1970 60hp Johnson, not an Evinrude. That switch is simply a ground switch for the starter circuit. When too much throttle is applied, the electric starter circuit is open. A safety feature designed to eliminate having the engine accidently start at full throttle in gear. Check compression (100+ psi and even on all cylinders)..... and spark which (with spark plugs removed) should jump a 1/4" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame, a real SNAP. If the comp and spark are okay, the usual cause is fouled carburetors. In which case, remove, clean, and rebuild them with complete carburetor kits. Adjustment procedure follows: (Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve) (J. Reeves) Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns. Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting. Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean. Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor. When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway. When time permits, visit my eBay store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store   Niel Balestrieri New member Username: penalty96 Post Number: 3 Registered: 05-2008 Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 12:40 pm:    Carbs look good and clean and compression is ok 105,100,105 across all three. could it be the S/S valves that are not set right?   ikia Visitor Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 01:26 pm:    The slow speed valves are set at about 5/8 to 3/4 turn out to start with adjust as needed after that.   Joe Reeves Senior Member Username: joereeves Post Number: 6096 Registered: 02-2001 Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 05:38 pm:    Niel.... Reread my above reply and adjust accordingly. It's a start.   Denis Ranger New member Username: denisguy Post Number: 1 Registered: 06-2008 Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 03:50 pm:    i have 1970 60hp johnson model #60esl70d just changed impellor on water pump and have no water coming out peeholes. while foot was off put pressure washer on both pipes leading to water jacket still no water coming out peeholes .what to do next?   Joe Reeves Senior Member Username: joereeves Post Number: 6156 Registered: 02-2001 Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 05:13 pm:    (MarineEngine.com - Properly Inserted Post) Go back to the previous page and click on the "Start New Discussion" hyperlink that exists in the "Blue Border". This will allow you to enter your question/post under your own title heading which will then appear at the top of the list. As it now stands, your post is buried under the post of another member. Dennis... That model has no such holes. The hole you speak of (at rear under powerhead) are exhaust relief outlets. Water flows out freely on some models, on others it does not. (Exhaust Relief Ports - Exhaust Housing (Inner/Outer) (J Reeves) The long housing between the powerhead and the lower unit is called the exhaust housing. There is a inner housing within it that has a heavy duty seal around the bottom of it, or heavy duty seals around a inner extension between the housing and the lower unit. The red hot exhaust travels down thru that inner tube and out the propeller with a somewhat supply of water to cool the propeller hub. A good amount of water surrounds and fills the space between the outer and inner tube, otherwise the outer housing would get so hot that the paint would burn off. Some water pumps, for some reason (differing even when new) exert a great amount of water pressure, and if the exhaust housing seals are in perfect condition, the water fills the tube to a point of overflowing. This brings into play those two holes or slots, whichever the engine might have, at the top rear portion of the exhaust housing just below the powerhead. Now, if those two holes/slots weren't there, water would continue to flow up into the cylinders. Water not flowing out of those holes is no concern for alarm UNLESS that outer housing suddenly becomes extremely hot..... the warning horn should sound long before that happens. The main reason for those holes being there (exhaust relief holes) is that when at an idle, there is an extreme amount of resistance encountered by the exhaust trying to escape due the fact that the outlet via the propeller is now blocked by a wall of water. The escape route in this case is for the exhaust to escape out those two holes, otherwise the engine would slow down quite quickly and die. If exhaust cannot escape, air/fuel cannot gain entrance to the engine. When time permits, visit my store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

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