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| 1981 Johnson v140 J140TLCIH Very Slow... |
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Message |
    
txgent4you Ben
New member
Username: txgent4you
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 11:43 pm: | 
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Hi all ! First off, I must thank all the techie guys who answer distress calls on here. And I really enjoy reading so many posts. But to the problem. Just bought an 18ft Chapparel with 1981 V140 Johnson Model J140TLCIH and first time to take my 4 grandkids out, no power, after putting the Throttle Shift Lever all the way forward takes forever to speed up. Please help? Very tired of hearing "Grandpa, when is the boat going to be fixed??" .
I did find one coil not firing and replaced it, so now all 4 cyclinders are firing fine.
When I have it out of gear, it starts pretty good with about 4 hits on the key and choke.
It does have a primer blub, so I checked the gas flow coming to the engine..was ok.
I did put in new plugs, the boat shop down the street told me the plugs without a gap were the right ones...Im not sure if they are.
I took off the cover to the carbs to see if the choke butterflies were sticking, and they were wide open, when put in gear.
No pity wanted here, but I am disabled and had to spend a bunch to have a guy come out and fix my power trim and tilt, so Im in need of free help pretty bad lol.
My soninlaw and I checked the two cables coming to the throttle and they seem to be pushing everything wide open.
The boat shop told me to put some of this expensive gas treatment in to clean the carbs but after going about 6 miles by water, it stills takes forever for it to speed up with the throttle lever all the way,..fast.. or forward.
I am mixing the gas 6 to 1 oil.
It does race very high when out of gear or using the start lever on the shifter.
Please help? and Thank you!
The Grandpa down in Seabrook Houston coastline Texas.
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Joe Reeves
Senior Member
Username: joereeves
Post Number: 5998
Registered: 02-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 12:15 am: |
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A better spark plug choice, in my opinion, would be Champion QL77JC4 plugs, gapped at .040 .
The 6 to 1 mixture you mention, I assume you mean a 50/1 mixture which is 1 pint of TCW-III 50/1 oil to 6 gallons of gasoline (87 octane is fine).
Remove all spark plugs. Check the compression of all cylinnders. What are the readings by cylinder number. Standing in back of the engine, facing the spark plug area, the cylinders are number as follows:
2....1
4....3
With the spark plugs removed, does the spark jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP!? If not, what does the spark look like... weak, yellow, etc?
With the engine not running but in forward gear, have someone slowly adance the throttle while you look at the timer base under the flywheel. It should smoothly advance from the idle position up to the full spark advance position against the stop screw that has the rubber bumper on it.
If that timer base sticks (usually a tight retaining clamp), that would have the engine running at a retarded spark timing scenario.
If the engine eventually hits full throttle, and the rpms are somewhere around 5000 rpm or so, I would assume that the high speed jets in the carburetors are clean BUT the condition of the carburetors we'll get to later if need be.
When time permits, visit my eBay store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store |
txgent4you Ben
New member
Username: txgent4you
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 01:26 am: |
|
Wow, thanks for the fast response. Im off tomorrow to buy the plugs you suggested at that gap. Yes I am mixing the gas and oil as you stated, correctly. I really don't have any thing to test the compression on the cyclinders, but I'll ask around. I will also do the test on the throttle advance. Good news lol. the tach don't work either. I really appreciate the help. |
Joe Reeves
Senior Member
Username: joereeves
Post Number: 6000
Registered: 02-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 10:19 am: |
|
Compression gauges are rather cheap, available at any automotive type store, Wal*Mart, K-Mart, just about anywhere. Have all the plugs removed when testing compression or for spark.
The charging problem on that model is usually a blown rectifier. See the following.
(Small Rectifier Description & Location)
(J. Reeves)
On most 3,4,6 cylinder engines, the small rectifier is located on the starboard (right) side of the engine just in front of the engines electrical wiring strip. There are a few older V4 engines that have the wiring strip on the rear portion of the engine and the rectifier would be located just under that terminal strip. The smaller horsepower engines usually have the rectifier located on the starboard side of the powerhead close to the carburetor area.
The rectifier appears to be a round object approximately one inch (1") in diameter and also about one inch (1") high. The base of it is sort of triangular in appearance and is attached to the engine with two (2) screws/bolts..... usually one screw/bolt is larger than the other. The rectifier, depending on which one your engine uses, will have either:
One Red wire, one Yellow wire, and one Yellow/Gray wire, or One Red wire, and two Yellow wires.
Note that either of the above rectifiers could have a fourth wire which would be Yellow/Blue
********************
(Small Rectifier Test)
(J. Reeves)
Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.
Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.
Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.
Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.
When time permits, visit my store ) at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store |
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