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Message |
    
Mike Black
New member
Username: mblack2187
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2008 - 11:50 pm: | 
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The motor has no power under load only during about the 1st 30 minutes each day. After that it seems that it kicks in and runs like a top the rest of the day. I have pulled all 3 carbs and gave them a good cleaning, but no difference. What next ? |
jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine
Post Number: 1463
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 07:08 am: |
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spark/compression ck...
all good,the ck that timer base,the rotating part under flywheel,..ck that it advances properly,and see that your carb butterflies open all the way,upon using the throttle. |
Mike Black
New member
Username: mblack2187
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 08:58 am: |
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if it was the timer base or butterflies, why would it kick in after 30 minutes of running ? |
jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine
Post Number: 1467
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 12:19 pm: |
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well,...if the timer base is sticking,vibration could allow that...ck for fuel restriction(filters) and wtr in fuel also,.... |
Mike Black
New member
Username: mblack2187
Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 12:58 pm: |
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Many thanks for your help. Looks as if it goes all the way to the rubber stop. Could it possibly be something that starts working after it gets warmed up ? I know that coils usually start having issues after they warm up, but has anyone seen the opposite ? |
jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine
Post Number: 1468
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 01:21 pm: |
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start back at the basics,..spark,compression and fuel delivery..do those and see where u are. |
Miguel,Barrera
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 09:59 am: |
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Need some help before I take my '97 Evinrude OceanPro to the shop for the third time. My engine stalls then dies upon take off.Once on plane it runs with no problem. Just recently I took it to the shop where they replaced the power pack. The mechanic told me my engine was running on five cylinders and my engine should be fine now. The engine is still stalling and dying upon take off. I took it to another mechanic who said it's my water pump going out causing the engine to heat just a little more than normal setting off the heat sensor causing it to shut my engine off.I've replaced my primer bulb and fuel line, changed out my fuel filter and don't know if I should replace my water pump or sensor. This last mechanic I went to also removed the thermostats and said that should cure the problem but it didn't. What I did this past sunday when on the water I Took off as soon as I started my engine when the rpms were at 1000 instead of starting the engine and waiting til it revved down to 500 rpms. It took off every time. I could sure use some advice so I can make an informed decision on what to believe instead of this hit and miss analysis from my mechanics which is causing me to spend a lot of money, 1,500.00 so far. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. |
pops86
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 03:51 pm: |
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I also own a 97 200 ocean pro. Have you changed your plugs and set to .030? Also have you olmed out your plug wires? They must be nearly o. If they are not, replace them. This is something you can do yourself. Also, remove the orange hot wire on each coil. Is it clean? Also I recommend removing each coil, one at a time, and cleaning the ground strap and mounting surface where the bolts hold it on. Use di electric grease on all connections, including spark plug boots. Simple things like this made a big difference on the running of my motor.Hope this helps. |
Miguel,Barrera
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 05:39 pm: |
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Thanks for the tips Pops86. I will try this out and see if it helps. I'm not mechanically inclined but will certainly pass this info on to my mechanic and have him do it.I'll let you know how it turns out. |
jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine
Post Number: 1482
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 08:15 pm: |
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i have the exact same eng as ol pops.....and his advice is right on the money........the wires,need to be gray.put the thermos,..BACK IN,...thats NOT causeing your prob...... |
Miguel, Barrera
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 09:59 pm: |
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Thanks jwbmarine, will do that. I will keep you posted. I appreciate you taking the time to respond to my inquiries. |
jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine
Post Number: 1492
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 10:16 pm: |
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no prob........i was bored this pm........can u tell..... |
Mike Black
Member
Username: mblack2187
Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, May 18, 2008 - 10:16 pm: |
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Finanly got a chance to look at it this weekend. Compression looks good. No spark on the the 3 starboard side cylinders when it is acting up. |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2745
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, May 18, 2008 - 10:40 pm: |
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Mike:
Check the shift assist switch in the shift lever where You attach the cable. |
Mike Black
Member
Username: mblack2187
Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 06:53 am: |
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thanks for the help. I am not familar with this switch, and do not see it in my Clymer manual. What am I looking for and how do I test it ? Thanks again. |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2748
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 08:26 am: |
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Mike:
Sorry, I got a bit mixed up in the different postings her, Your engine does not have the shift interrupt switch. Let us try a different approach.
Disconnect and remove the power-pack and clean out ALL connectors. Do the same with the connectors coming from the the timer base and the pins on the coils.
When the engine starts and runs on idle, does it have equal temp on both cylinder banks?
If not remove and clean/change thermostats and be sure both pressure valves does not stick in the rubber bushing. Change bushings if needed. |
Mike Black
Member
Username: mblack2187
Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 05:52 pm: |
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Thanks again for the response. With one bank not firing, wouldn't the temps be different ? |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2749
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 08:04 pm: |
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If one bank is not firing at idle, engine will probably not run at idle. |
Mike Black
Member
Username: mblack2187
Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 09:51 pm: |
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It runs, but very poorly. |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2751
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 10:50 pm: |
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One bank 'dead', it will not run, impossible to shift into gear.
Be sure the exhaust relief holes at the back of the leg are above water when idling and starting.
If possible hook a timing light to each of the 'suspicious' plug leads and check for signal. |
Mike Black
Member
Username: mblack2187
Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 07:02 am: |
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Thank You Morten for your help. I put an in-line spark checker on each of the plugs, turned the motor over (on the hose) and saw no spark indication on all 3 starboard cylinders. I did see spark on all 3 port cylinders. I did this twice. I then backed the boat into the water and cranked it up. After about 30 minutes of running the motor, you can hear the motor sputter a couple of times and then what sounds like the other cylinders kick in and it runs great the rest of the day. Next day it starts all over again. |
jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine
Post Number: 1577
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 07:25 am: |
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shift swift prob |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2752
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 08:38 am: |
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jwb: Se my other post up: No shift switch on this mod. Came with the loopers and later with the 60 Degree engines.
Mike:
Then I see only 3 possibilities:
1: Stator gone bad - flywheel must off.
2: Sensor gone bad - flywheel must off.
3: Powerpack gone bad.
If You have a peak reading multimeter, You may get some readings from both stator and sensor input to power-pack. You may even measure resistance (open to ground on all cables) on both sensor and stator before lifting off flywheel.
However it might be worth the effort to lift off the flywheel and check that stator has not melted (Black goo). |
jwbmarine
Senior Member
Username: jwbmarine
Post Number: 1582
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 08:52 am: |
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agreed....was looking at the 3 dead cyls.... |
Mike Black
Member
Username: mblack2187
Post Number: 9
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 08:52 pm: |
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I happened to have the flywheel off already to replace the regulator/rectifier and took a close look at the stator for the "black goo" I have read about. Everything visually looked o.k. The boat is 90 miles away, so it will be a week or so before I can check the resistance ( I do not have a peak reading multimeter. Thanks for your help. |
Mike Black
Member
Username: mblack2187
Post Number: 10
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 10:30 pm: |
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Took resistance readings and checked for grounding per Clymer manual on both the timer base and stator. All of the readings looked good, and no pins showed shorted to ground, so I installed a new powerpack. Boat ran and idled great all day. Best part was that I got it all fixed with enough time to still get in some fishing today. Thanks guys for all of the help. |
