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Well I got it running but still not winterized

B

bobct

Advanced Contributor
"today was a comedy of errors.

"today was a comedy of errors. I'll spare all the details but my distributor was off 180 degrees. A couple of people get prizes for that answer


The comedic part was after I corrected that, I STILL couldn't get it started. Out of the blue I had no spark. Hmmm, ok swapped back my old coil -nothing. Took the cap off and the rotor falls apart. Ok, grabbed one from the other engine, still nothing. The coil wire has been falling out of the coil so I grab that too from the other engine and that one works but the end is fried up. Still nothing...

If I'm the 1st one to do this I should get an award. I went to lunch and and hit me.... it wouldn't start because I was trying to start it with the remote starter! Yeah, that will turn it over but doesn't energize the ignition.

I had it setup to fix the distributor issue and just kept using it.

Ok, now it's running, I'm ready to winterize. I hook up the garden hose, let it idle and it immediately heads towards an overheat. The risers and elbows are getting hot. It's not exhausting any water...

I shut it down and realize that I connected the raw water pick up hose to the wrong side of the u-cooler. It's opposite of the other engine.

I reverse it and now the pump is making a huge racket. I figured the impellor is shot because I ran it dry and I was planning on changing it anyway.

I grab my new one, install it (the vanes are broken on the other one) and it does the same thing! It's not pumping any water.

So, that's where I am. The pump has about a 1/2" of rotational play and probably should be rebuilt but I don't understand why it's not working at all. I only need it to work for about 10 minutes!

I'm going to double check both the orientation of the vanes compared to the engine rotation tomorrow and double-check the hoses. All of this was done in the dark. The other thing I struggled with was the shaft key which orients the impellor. I didn't realize that it was a separate part. It's half moon piece which I wedged back in and then reinstalled the impellor. It took me a couple of tries to get it in w/o the piece falling out. It seems to be locked in now.

Any thoughts?

thanks,
Bob"
 
"Bob,

are you talking about

"Bob,

are you talking about the cam plate in the pump? Which model pump are you using? Mark had posted a few great PDF files from Sherwood regarding servicing.

Congratulations on getting it running !"
 
"Al,

Thanks, definitely mak

"Al,

Thanks, definitely making progress. No, I'm talking about the keyway on the shaft. I didn't notice that it's actually two pieces (maybe it shouldn't be) and it seperated from the shaft.

I wedged it back onto the shaft and seems to be working, although the pump is not right now."
 
"Bob:
The 04432 key is a one

"Bob:
The 04432 key is a one piece half-moon style. If it is in two pieces, it sounds like it has sheared and the shaft will likely just spin in the impeller - this isn't good and will make a mess of the shaft in short order. A good hardware store should be able to get you one to get you thru the still-to-be-done 10 minute job.

You can get the tech guide from sherwood's site or i can email it to you, if needed.

The pump's inlets and outlets should reverse from one engine to the other but the oil cooler should be the same on either side.

If you are doing this with a hose supplying your cooling water, why not just 'skip' the pump. Get a female garden hose adapter and whatever else it take to mate up to a 1.25" hose barb. Connect that barb where the pump's outlet would go, supplying water to the oil cooler. will run all day as long as you keep the rpm < 1200 (And the hose supply system is adequate). I use the plastic hose barbs and usually grind down the OD so it is easy on and off."
 
"bob - you did refill the HX a

"bob - you did refill the HX and purge the coolant side after you got the new gasket under the manifold, didn't you?"
 
"Mark,

Just to clarify, the

"Mark,

Just to clarify, the 1/2 moon key was separated from the shaft but was still intact. I simply reinstalled it back into the groove on the shaft.

Based on the fact that it has a part #, I assume this is normal. If I hold the impeller and try and rotate the pulley, it "grabs" so I think it's keyed in place. As I mentioned, there is some rotational play but I assume that's not fatal.

Yes, I already filled the FW side of the system with the bleed screw removed from the thermostat housing. This is exactly how I did the other engine.

Should I be doing something different since I also opened up the intake manifold? Even if I had a airlock on the FW side of the system, that wouldn't impact the RW pump from working would it?

Right now, I'm not getting any water exiting the exhaust.

thanks,
Bob

P.S. - yes, I have the Sherwood parts list you posted before. Worst case, I will use your suggestion and just bypass the pump if needed."
 
shouldn't have to do anyth

shouldn't have to do anything different in the bleed the air out process.

There shouldn't be any 'rotational play' in the pump. I'd suspect there is an issue with the key (worn) but that is just a guess. a close inspection with the cover off should show the source. Probably ok for your current need but I sure would have it fixed before springtime.
 
"so, the comedy continues. I d

"so, the comedy continues. I did have the RWP pump correct the other night. The "noise" I heard was the pump pulley touching one of the air intake hoses on the hull side of the boat. I didn't see it in the dark.

I re-installed the pump and got the blue stuff run through the raw water side. For anyone else, the story would end here


Apparently, I got more coolant in the oil than I thought when I removed the intake manifold. Now that the engine has run, the oil looks like coffee.

I'm going to go back this morning and do 2-3 oil changes back to back. Then I'll re-winterize and the saga should be over.

Yeah, I've been saying that all week


Bob"
 
Bob:

I'm amazed at how

Bob:

I'm amazed at how "good" your bad luck has been. You really haven't damaged anything though you've had quite a few subassemblies off and on. Hope it continues thru the coming year.
 
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