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Water in Oil....BRAND NEW REBUILT M440, hasn't even left the dock yet!

michaeld69

New member
Upon install of new motor a week or so ago, had a water pump leak. Took it back to pump company that had just rebuilt it & they fixed. Hooked it back up & noticed water was leaving the heat exchanger, but couldn't find a drip anywhere.

Today, thought I was going to be able to take it for a spin, but heat exchanger was very low, so I refilled, checked the motor oil (looked great), checked transmission fluid (also great), crunk and within 5-10 minutes was running hot (210 degrees). Immediately shut off, removed [radiator] cap and it was empty! Another inspection of lines & hoses found no drips/leaks. So, I checked the dip stick and found antifreeze/water had filled up the crank case! Looked like cake batter!

I then removed all spark plugs (no water in cylinders). Then I did compression check & was between 150-152 on all cylinders. Where could the water/antifreeze be traveling thru at such a quick rate into the oil pan? Note: as I filled the heat exchanger it took only about 10 seconds for it to leave it. Thought all the antifreeze/water had leaked out during the week through an unfound leak site, therefore wasn't suprised when I had to fill it with about 2 gallons of water before it wanted to hold a good water level.

Please Help! Can anyone give me some advice on a checklist of sorts to dismantle and inspect possible entry areas??

Thanks,
Michael
 
Upon install of new motor a week or so ago, had a water pump leak. Took it back to pump company that had just rebuilt it & they fixed. Hooked it back up & noticed water was leaving the heat exchanger, but couldn't find a drip anywhere.

Today, thought I was going to be able to take it for a spin, but heat exchanger was very low, so I refilled, checked the motor oil (looked great), checked transmission fluid (also great), crunk and within 5-10 minutes was running hot (210 degrees). Immediately shut off, removed [radiator] cap and it was empty! Another inspection of lines & hoses found no drips/leaks. So, I checked the dip stick and found antifreeze/water had filled up the crank case! Looked like cake batter!

I then removed all spark plugs (no water in cylinders). Then I did compression check & was between 150-152 on all cylinders. Where could the water/antifreeze be traveling thru at such a quick rate into the oil pan? Note: as I filled the heat exchanger it took only about 10 seconds for it to leave it. Thought all the antifreeze/water had leaked out during the week through an unfound leak site, therefore wasn't suprised when I had to fill it with about 2 gallons of water before it wanted to hold a good water level.

Please Help! Can anyone give me some advice on a checklist of sorts to dismantle and inspect possible entry areas??

Thanks,
Michael

Raw water pump? or Engine circ pump?

Id get a cooling system pressure pump and put it on the radiator cap and try and locate the leak by ear then start asking where and what kind of gaskets were used since you just had it rebuilt.
 
Some builders cheap out and do not use the $25 marine timing cover gasket. They glue on the cover and water/coolant leaks into the oil pan.
 

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thanks for the reply. The pic of the gasket you attached is the exact gasket we used. I personally oversaw that part of the rebuild along with a few other parts. I talked to a guy today that thought it might be the timing chain cover where the hose comes out of the pump and into the cover. at this point i still dont know....

thanks again,
michael
 
hi found the problem today. after pulling new engine from boat 40 ft egg harbor.took engine back to shop took oil pan off poured water in the heat exchanger.found the big problem hole in the very bottom of the #6 cylinder rotted from inside out the guys at the shop should have seen this when they bored it out or when sonic tested that never happend.so there we are.......
 
hi found the problem today. after pulling new engine from boat 40 ft egg harbor.took engine back to shop took oil pan off poured water in the heat exchanger.found the big problem hole in the very bottom of the #6 cylinder rotted from inside out the guys at the shop should have seen this when they bored it out or when sonic tested that never happend.so there we are.......

Yikes! I have a >10 hr remanufactured r-h rotation M440 complete in my garage. Interested? Location is CT.
 
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