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Volvo Penta AQ130 water in oil

D

Dean Adel

New member
Wondering if someone can help me out with a problem I have with my Aq130C which seems to get water in the oil nearly every year. I took the boat out when I left checked oil and was fine. Got to a fishing spot checked it again then water in the oil. The engine was purring and plenty of power before it happened. Took off my JP impeller housing noticed small water pool on the engine crank side of impeller. Also noticed floating O ring blocking the tell tale hole. Upon bringing the impeller home, rang the Volvo Dealer he now tells me it could actually be the exhaust manifold severely blocked causing back pressure exhaust to return back up the water intake pipe causing pressure to blow water back through the impeller. Or blocked water cooled oil cooler. Now more confused than ever as to what it could be. Running fresh water the water out of the leg is was luke warm after 15-20 mins of running . When it was running out on the water before it happened temp gauge showed 89°C. I will admit I have been using after market seals and O rings to rebuild the impeller. Engineer also told me if chamber of the housing is scored or scratched water will get through the seals, and to consider re-honing it. If anyone could help me nut out, to what the most likely cause would be. I've since order another secondhand housing and genuine rebuild kit. The boat is stored 200 km away so want to be prepared for all likely scenarios. Would be greatly appreciated.
 
Absolutely do not run this engine until you have diagnosed the problem. Running with water in the oil will quickly remove the babbitt layer from your bearing shells. Let's hope it has not already happened. You must must must change that oil several times if you detect water. That is, change the oil, run the engine for 20-30 seconds, change the oil, repeat like three times at least. Listen to it carefully for knocking or other strange sounds.
I'm guessing you are in Oz or ZA or somewhere that doesn't freeze so we can eliminate a cracked block due to freeze damage, yes? The only places where oil and cooling water can mix is in the oil cooler, the seawater drive shaft, or through a leaking head gasket. As Bob mentions, a compression and leak-down test will let you know if you have a bad head gasket. Since you mention the seawater pump, that would be suspect #1. A rebuild with new genuine seals should eliminate the issue, but do the oil changes. It's cheaper than a rebuild.
 
o2batsea said:
Absolutely do not run this engine until you have diagnosed the problem. Running with water in the oil will quickly remove the babbitt layer from your bearing shells. Let's hope it has not already happened. You must must must change that oil several times if you detect water. That is, change the oil, run the engine for 20-30 seconds, change the oil, repeat like three times at least. Listen to it carefully for knocking or other strange sounds.
I'm guessing you are in Oz or ZA or somewhere that doesn't freeze so we can eliminate a cracked block due to freeze damage, yes? The only places where oil and cooling water can mix is in the oil cooler, the seawater drive shaft, or through a leaking head gasket. As Bob mentions, a compression and leak-down test will let you know if you have a bad head gasket. Since you mention the seawater pump, that would be suspect #1. A rebuild with new genuine seals should eliminate the issue, but do the oil changes. It's cheaper than a rebuild.
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Yes I'm from Oz, Adelaide Australia. So if I ran water through water inlet and water comes out of sump would that tell me it's a oil cooler leak. And or water in any of the cylinders tell me it's the head. I ran fresh oil through the oil cap and hand cranked it before before resting it. As my starter motor shot it the same day. So can I run the engine for those short 20 - 30 seconds oil changes without the impeller on it. Now do I need the full 4 1/2 litres each time. Or does engine flush additive help. o2batsea
 
Hi Members follow from my water in oil saga on my Volvo Penta AQ130C, did a raw water pump test no leak, about to do oil cooler test from a radiator shop employee, who spent 8 years making these very coolers, removed exhaust manifold and head found water in no 4 piston. Taking head and valves for clean & pressure test. But found the culprit exhaust manifold, ran water through and found water entering exhaust chamber between 3 & 4. My question to any members is, is it repairable or use it as a weight. Being in Oz the only ones available are in the US, and a fair few won't deliver to Australia, does anyone know a marine company that does. Would kindly appreciate some info. Thanks.
 

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i would NOT attempt to repair an old exhaust manifold unless it was the only remaining option...

there are a few option on e b a y that don't appear to have any reservations shipping your way...
 
makomark said:
i would NOT attempt to repair an old exhaust manifold unless it was the only remaining option...

there are a few option on e b a y that don't appear to have any reservations shipping your way...
Click to expand...
Thanks makomark, but they want more for delivery charge that the item, I know it goes by weight. I brought a raw water pump housing the seller wanted $50 US for the pump and $270 US for delivery. Such iraddical pricing.
 
Ive just taken my elbow off as well and it's had it. I've found another. But can anyone tell me the gaskets on the internet don't have the smiley water galleys surrounding the centre hole cut into them. They have a centre hole, 4 corner bolt holes and drain plug hole. Cheers members
 
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